Yes, I remember you saying that Was just saying I think both your finish as well as the Danish Oil by itself give a much more natural looking finish than the poly urathane. Just in this case, I needed the extra protection the poly offers.
When you first posted pics of that veneer, I knew it was going to look great 
Where did you get that from if you don't mind me asking ? Oakwood ?
-jay
Jay,
Oops in a previous post I said the veneer was Makore, what I meant to say was flat cut Mozambique (from
www.wood-database.com :
Comments: This wood wins the award for the most commonly-used aliases, with no single name being predominant. When used in guitars, it’s most commonly referred to as Ovangkol. Most other woodworkers favor either Shedua or Amazique, while veneer is sometimes sold under the name Mozambique. All refer to the same wood species: Guibourtia ehie.) The rest of this post is still accurate.
I got it at
www.veneersupplies.com . It was in their raw wood clearance section. I jut checked and it looks like they are out of the flat cut at this time. Oakwood doesn't have any flat cut either.
I learned a lesson with this. I will never again attempt the iron on method when I have to splice pieces of raw wood veneer together. No matter what I tried, or how good the seams looked when I finished ironing the veneer on, once it cooled the seams separated a little. Not much, but just enough to show a straight line between the pieces.
From now on, if I have to splice raw wood pieces together I will use the cold press method of application. That means no rolling around corners so I need to learn Peter's method of putting solid wood strips along the edges that are to be rounded over, applying the veneer, then rounding over the edges. I plan on practicing this on the X-Omnis.
Mike
