Super-V's going to the show, and new build pics daily.

HAL · « **Reply #60 on:** 24 Sep 2011, 12:10 am »

LOL!

LarryB · « **Reply #61 on:** 24 Sep 2011, 12:23 am »

If I got you to smile, it cancels out of one of the exasperated looks I'm sure to get from you at RMAF.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #62 on:** 24 Sep 2011, 02:40 am »

Quote

The pictures of the crossovers look great but what is the advantage of a mirrored design?

The tube connectors on the back of the speakers go to the inside edge (nearest the amp). So the wiring to the crossover goes up the inside side panel to the crossover where the input is on that same inside. Mirror imaged...

dbarnet · « **Reply #63 on:** 25 Sep 2011, 11:30 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 24 Sep 2011, 02:40 am

The tube connectors on the back of the speakers go to the inside edge (nearest the amp). So the wiring to the crossover goes up the inside side panel to the crossover where the input is on that same inside. Mirror imaged...

Thanks a bunch

David

Danny Richie · « **Reply #64 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 04:48 pm »

These things sure look good with the grills on.

signatureaudiolabs · « **Reply #65 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 05:05 pm »

Those look great. That stone look almost looks like snake skin in some of the pictures, very cool effect.
Did you fabricate the grills ?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #66 on:** 28 Oct 2011, 04:44 pm »

I didn't sell this pair at the show so they are still available, and I will make a show special price to someone...

synergy1 · « **Reply #67 on:** 31 Oct 2011, 05:26 pm »

Danny, what material is the crossover mounted to in the photo's here? Is there silicon under the parts or simply pumped in around the sides of each part after it strapped down? It would seem hard to put silicon under each part and not make a mess while strapping them down.

It may seem simple but I'm worried about hooking up the wires out of the board tothe proper terminals on all the speakers. It should be intuitive but from where I am standing its not. Is there a diagram other than the wiring diagram that I have for the crossover that I can look at to help align the wiring to the correct side of the woofers and upper driver. I guess it could be hand drawn, I'm probably going to need it. I know it likely simple especially after doing it a few times and may end up being but currently it seems intimidating I must admit.

I am going to build the Super V boards in a mirrored fashion and then they mount on the deck of the speaker respectively, then the wires go up to and down to the woofers that are wired in series I presume. I'm not all that intuitive about wiring in general. Give me a skill saw please and I'll fix it:)

I am enjoying this. I just don't want to haul these now very heavy speakers down to EVS for help wiring them up if i don't have to. Probably need to. Heads up Ric. If you see this thread. I am trying and it may be easier than I think, but all new things aren't that easy the first time.

I'd really like to see a good picture of the front and back of a Super V completely wired before the no-rez goes in so I can see how the holes and where the holes are drilled optimally for all the wires going to and from the drivers and crossover.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #68 on:** 1 Nov 2011, 02:48 am »

There are lots of good pics here. Seeing the wiring diagram that comes in the kit plus seeing a picture of the crossover posted here completed should tell you everything that you need to know. If not call me and I'll walk you through any aspect of it.

persisting1 · « **Reply #69 on:** 1 Nov 2011, 04:39 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 1 Nov 2011, 02:48 am

There are lots of good pics here. Seeing the wiring diagram that comes in the kit plus seeing a picture of the crossover posted here completed should tell you everything that you need to know. If not call me and I'll walk you through any aspect of it.

Danny,

It's not always easy to find info for a particular build on threads that are really long. The info can be on multiple threads as well. It can be daunting for potential customers.

tasar · « **Reply #70 on:** 1 Nov 2011, 03:31 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 28 Oct 2011, 04:44 pm

I didn't sell this pair at the show so they are still available, and I will make a show special price to someone...

Danny.......I emailed you re the above. Let me know

Danny Richie · « **Reply #71 on:** 1 Nov 2011, 04:00 pm »

Quote from: tasar on 1 Nov 2011, 03:31 pm

Danny.......I emailed you re the above. Let me know

Normally a built out pair like the ones that I took to the show would have to be $7,000 for the pair. I'll let that pair go for $6,200 plus shipping.

I'll let me Lamborghini yellow pair (non Jupiter cap upgraded version) go for $5,900 or $6,200 with the new cap upgrade completed. Plus shipping.

I normally wouldn't let these go this cheap, but I am about to be spending a bunch of money on new drivers that are being produced. Plus I just don't need this many demo speakers laying around. I can always build out another set.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #72 on:** 7 Nov 2011, 07:36 am »

Danny, I'm really confused on how to hook up the sub amp to the four wires. I'm not sure what wire is 1+ and 2+ etc. for hooking up to the SpeakOn. I notice there are two sets of wires on the Rythmik amp. Where and how do they hook up? Do I need to get a cable of some sort?

wiring with your pictures for the sub amps was a breeze (see pictures below) but not sure what to do after that. I think I have the Electra cable figured by looking at your web site but am I supposed to use the wire you supply going from the electra posts to my amp? I know these might seem like dumb questions but if thats the case I used up all the wire for the network and wiring of the drivers. I literally have about two feet of red and three feet of white left.

Thats a picture of the speaker with the sides not finished yet. Will be veneering and french polishing later. I want to burn them in now while I wait to finish them off.
Phone camera shots.

I couldn't find anything on the Rythmik site and some of the connectors supplied don't appear to fit on the cable ends of the wires in the Rythmik amp. If I'm even supposed to wire anythink to those two sets of wires. Really confused. Sorry

Larry

Danny Richie · « **Reply #73 on:** 7 Nov 2011, 05:47 pm »

Quote

Danny, I'm really confused on how to hook up the sub amp to the four wires. I'm not sure what wire is 1+ and 2+ etc. for hooking up to the SpeakOn. I notice there are two sets of wires on the Rythmik amp. Where and how do they hook up? Do I need to get a cable of some sort?

You should have received a wiring diagram with the kit that shows you how to hook up the servo subs. If you do not have it then please e-mail a request for one to me and I will send one over to you in an e-mail.

Quote

wiring with your pictures for the sub amps was a breeze (see pictures below) but not sure what to do after that. I think I have the Electra cable figured by looking at your web site but am I supposed to use the wire you supply going from the electra posts to my amp?

You use your speaker cables from your amp to the tube connectors.

Quote

I couldn't find anything on the Rythmik site and some of the connectors supplied don't appear to fit on the cable ends of the wires in the Rythmik amp. If I'm even supposed to wire anythink to those two sets of wires. Really confused. Sorry

Cut off the slip on connectors that are attached to the amplifier wires and connect all of them to the four pole, male, SpeakOn connector.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #74 on:** 7 Nov 2011, 05:53 pm »

Run you a little panel across the back at the bottom and you'll have a nice place there to mount the connectors.

These flat packs that I have for the Super-V have that made with a recess edge that helps hold the rear grill. Yes the flat pack kit comes with grill frames too.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #75 on:** 7 Nov 2011, 06:53 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 7 Nov 2011, 05:53 pm

Run you a little panel across the back at the bottom and you'll have a nice place there to mount the connectors.

These flat packs that I have for the Super-V have that made with a recess edge that helps hold the rear grill. Yes the flat pack kit comes with grill frames too.

show off.

Actually I have the plate made for the connectors. I was planning on veneering them like I'm doing the sides. Then I'll put them on. I also will have a bowtie like yours except I am replacing the bottom arc of the bowtie with a straight line. When the grills I'll be making come off, I don't want to see the points of the bottom arc extending past the bottom of the upper baffle. Not a problem with yours since your baffle is a little taller than mine.

Anyway my schedule hasn't allowed me to do the veneering part for now. I've screwed the sides on for now raw just so I can get myself going with the break-in. Also I've grown really impatient waiting this many months getting started and I'm anxious to hear them and break them in. Our favorite part of the build...the dreaded break-in period.

As for the schematic on the subs, I never saw a diagram on how to hook them up. Just the crossover network and receipt. I'll pm you with my email in case you don't have it.

Thanks Danny,
Larry

ps. After seeing my speakers for the first time at this stage My 19 yr. old son said "Woh! Beast Mode!". They're not that big really, but they do look bigger in person than in the photo's

ebag4 · « **Reply #76 on:** 7 Nov 2011, 10:35 pm »

Quote from: mono-tubeleosis on 7 Nov 2011, 07:36 am

Larry,
I love the design of your side panels, very cool!

Best,
Ed

Danny Richie · « **Reply #77 on:** 8 Nov 2011, 02:57 am »

Quote from: ebag4 on 7 Nov 2011, 10:35 pm

Larry,
I love the design of your side panels, very cool!

Best,
Ed

Me too Larry. Nice look!

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #78 on:** 8 Nov 2011, 03:45 pm »

Thanks Ebag/Danny.

I did about 50 drawings before I decided on that one (the curse of being a graphic designer

).

Much inspiration from all the designs I saw here of course. I was hoping to make the look of the overall footprint appear a little smaller, and I wanted to incorporate straight lines with curves. I actually might re-do them though.

After I put them on I realized I made two small mistakes. you can't tell in this photo but there is a small gap of open air showing where the front/bottom curve of the side panels meets the bottom/sides of the H-frame. That curve of the side panel needs to come forward toward the front to cover it up about an inch. I could just add a small piece of mdf to cover it up, or just readjust the design a little and re cut them.

I've got a cnc and the mdf to do that so it really isn't much of problem for me. Also, I wouldn't mind lowering the bottom line of the sides about an inch. I purposely raised it a little because I thought some of the designs looked a bit low for my taste and we're fighting with the floor so to speak. But I think I over compensated and made the bottom a little too high now that I have them on. I attribute that to me missing the height of the 3 degree risers I have on my base. I'll live with these for a couple weeks looking at them before I decide. Worst case is I'll keep these on temporarily while I re-cut, veneer, and french polish the new ones with the minor adjustments.

Anyway, I'm having fun.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #79 on:** 8 Nov 2011, 04:01 pm »

One other thing I forgot to mention is that picture is really blotchy and over exposed. The black h-frame came out much better than it looks in those photos (i-phone camera). They're textured flat black and they came out real well. I'm hoping that will be a nice contrast with the glossy french polished sides. I'm practicing french polishing now before I get to the real thing.

If I pull it off it should look like an expensive acoustic guitar finish (which they still do). It's an ancient method of finishing wood that has been replaced by polyurethane because it takes so long to do, but the finish is to die for if done correctly. I don't recommend doing it unless you have instructional cd's etc. To do all four sides will take several weeks/months. That will give me something to do while they break in I guess.

I'll take pictures with a good camera when I'm done.