Super-V's going to the show, and new build pics daily.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #40 on:** 16 Sep 2011, 02:51 am »

Figuring out how all the wires connect to the subs have been worrying me. This should help for sure.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #41 on:** 16 Sep 2011, 04:02 am »

I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.

I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.

Does that seem right?

nickd · « **Reply #42 on:** 16 Sep 2011, 03:02 pm »

Use a small battery to test the drivers after you wire up the woofers. The hookup is complicated enough that you want to make sure they are both going the same direction. If they both hit in phase and the servo is wired correctly, you will have the best bass you have ever heard.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #43 on:** 16 Sep 2011, 03:05 pm »

Quote from: mono-tubeleosis on 16 Sep 2011, 04:02 am

I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.

I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.

Does that seem right?

Sounds like you've got it.

The only difference with mine is that I drilled a separate hole for the two wires going from the tube connectors through the floor board of the upper woofer that will allow them to head up to the crossover.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #44 on:** 17 Sep 2011, 01:58 am »

I finally got a chance to work on these again today.

There is a pic of the crossover box with crossover inside.

Here is one with the crossover box installed and one not.

And finally here is a pic of one after completion.

I still need to line them with No Rez. They need a lot of burn in time. And there are no floor spikes under them. However, they don't sound very fresh. They sound very smooth already and I had a few hours of listening on them tonight and was very pleased. This is the best pair yet.

Tyson · « **Reply #45 on:** 17 Sep 2011, 02:05 am »

Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #46 on:** 17 Sep 2011, 02:17 am »

Last year we had some amps that were not burned in yet that made them sound a little sharp, and it didn't help much that I kept playing aggressive tracks. The speakers were also assembled just days before the show because of the late arrival of the cabinets.

Right now these are sounding really smooth already. I could listen to them all night and typically I can't stand to listen to a speaker while its fresh.

Funny thing is the area where they really sound smooth is right in the vocal region, even more so than up top. The top end is smooth too, but that vocal regionis just lush.

Quote from: Tyson on 17 Sep 2011, 02:05 am

Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!

WC · « **Reply #47 on:** 19 Sep 2011, 03:33 pm »

What amps are you using this year?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #48 on:** 19 Sep 2011, 03:40 pm »

Quote from: WC on 19 Sep 2011, 03:33 pm

What amps are you using this year?

It will be a surprise.

LarryB · « **Reply #49 on:** 19 Sep 2011, 03:49 pm »

Great job Danny - - those speakers are magnificent.

I too found them a bit bright last year, and the mids a bit rough; that is why -in conjunction with their powerful bass - I felt that they were especially suited for rock music. If the highs have been tamed and in particular, the midrange smoothed a bit - either through break-in, new crossover parts, and or amplification - it would catapult them to a much higher level in my view.

I too eagerly await auditioning them in Denver.

Larry

Nick77 · « **Reply #50 on:** 19 Sep 2011, 04:28 pm »

Quote from: Tyson on 17 Sep 2011, 02:05 am

Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!

Ditto at LSAF, i would really like to hear these again with the cap upgrade. That OB bass is unforgetable.

dbarnet · « **Reply #51 on:** 21 Sep 2011, 10:21 pm »

Quote from: mono-tubeleosis on 16 Sep 2011, 04:02 am

I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.

I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.

Does that seem right?

Danny,
I don’t want to sound stupid but I don’t understand where the “floor board” and the “H” are located. There are two (2) Subwoofer Plenums stacked on top of each other where is the “H”. Also, it appears that you are using 1/4-20 Inserts to hold the Side Gables and the Plenums together. Is this the case?
David

Danny Richie · « **Reply #52 on:** 21 Sep 2011, 10:52 pm »

David,

The side panels complete the H frame. To start with you have a common baffle and a small box on the back side of each woofer.

My pair is slightly different than your pair in that I am using some 1/4 20 bolts to hold on the sides. The upper baffle is also held in with lock pins. The reason being is to make the sides removable. So in wagging these around to the show (or shows) if a side panel were to be damaged or something, then it can be removed and repaired if needed.

dbarnet · « **Reply #53 on:** 22 Sep 2011, 12:51 am »

Quote from: Danny on 21 Sep 2011, 10:52 pm

David,

The side panels complete the H frame. To start with you have a common baffle and a small box on the back side of each woofer.

My pair is slightly different than your pair in that I am using some 1/4 20 bolts to hold on the sides. The upper baffle is also held in with lock pins. The reason being is to make the sides removable. So in wagging these around to the show (or shows) if a side panel were to be damaged or something, then it can be removed and repaired if needed.

Go it. Thanks for the help

David

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #54 on:** 22 Sep 2011, 01:43 am »

Danny I'm starting to piece parts together for the enclosures and I've been worrying about my crossover fitting. Looking at your photos it looks like your coax baffle is longer than mine. I noticed you are joining yours different which adds 3/4 of an inch of length but it looks like its longer even without that 3/4 of an inch.

Mine is 18.75 inches like the drawing says but my sides are higher than the bottom of the driver opening if you look at the picture. I purposely made them an inch higher for some head room to clear the smallest inductor which will be back 7 inches from the baffle. I'll have to use a really thin board to give me only about an 1/8 of an inch clearance. I was planning on putting the top on similar to how Jparkur did on his cherry sunburst cabinet. the top cover angles lower to where it will be about an inch or so below the bottom of the driver opening.

Anyway, back to my original question, did I make the baffle too short at 18.75?

Pay no attention to the two-tone. I originally cut the H with table saw/jasper jig and I decided to re-cut it all with the cnc. The top part is just resting on it for the photos. I plan on doing th 3 degree tilt on the base this time too. Too bad because the H came out real well paint wise (textured black).

Check out the new "divorce home". She got the Plantation shutters, I got the plastic blinds. At least I get to treat the room any way I want now.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #55 on:** 22 Sep 2011, 02:37 am »

It's no illusion. The guy that cut these flat packs for me made the front baffle a little taller.

There are several other details that are different as well. Nothing that would change how they sound though.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #56 on:** 22 Sep 2011, 05:08 am »

Cool. I also noticed the bottom back side lines up to the base differently too. As long as it doesn't matter I'll figure out how to make the crossover fit. It'll be tight but it'll make it fit. Bottom line for me is I can't wait to get these babies going. I'm going crazy.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #57 on:** 23 Sep 2011, 02:33 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 22 Sep 2011, 02:37 am

It's no illusion. The guy that cut these flat packs for me made the front baffle a little taller.

There are several other details that are different as well. Nothing that would change how they sound though.

I'm thinking that could be a good thing to be a little taller for the show. I'm sure a lot of the people coming in will be standing while they're listening to them.

dbarnet · « **Reply #58 on:** 23 Sep 2011, 11:33 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 13 Sep 2011, 03:31 am

See pics.

Yes, I mirrored the crossovers.

And a close up of one after adding the wiring.

And yes, that big Brown square thing is a Jupiter cap.

Danny,

The pictures of the crossovers look great but what is the advantage of a mirrored design?

David

LarryB · « **Reply #59 on:** 24 Sep 2011, 12:04 am »

Quote

what is the advantage of a mirrored design?

It protects against vampires.