diy cap upgrade

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bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #20 on: 21 Jul 2012, 02:46 am »
Hello ,
Today i did receive my new weller solderstation with new tips and bigger temperature range and some hardware that will allow me to skip the binding post for the loudspeakers and some of the '' bit flimsy '' hardware to connect the input leads. I wanna use 0.5 mm twisted solder core ( have non isolated silver and  enamelled copper) This will skip one crimping and one '' sliding contact'' for a small signal so i expect some benefit. Maybe will replace the leads to the pot as well.
Should i post the results here or just send p.m to the '' real virtue boys''?
Sincere greetings, Edward
P.s seeing my messages being read but no new ideas or reactions feels kind of strange

tenantman

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Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #21 on: 21 Jul 2012, 04:43 pm »


Ed,

Nice of you to report the progress you are making to boost the performance of the Virtue. I am sure there are others reading your every move with bated interest as to the final outcome. This is not necessarily a DIY crowd but avid Virtue Audio fans.


abernardi

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #22 on: 22 Jul 2012, 07:21 am »
Yes, please keep posting, it's fascinating.

bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #23 on: 22 Jul 2012, 07:39 pm »
Hello,
Just did replace one of the interconnect leads that did break off during diy-ing. Did use solid core twisted enamelled copper wire no screen for protection. The original cable has jyst 30 % of its length screened so i wonder if it will do any good.
I did swear a lot during removing these white connectors from the board. I would just replace them if i could connect virtue cable directly to the board.
I did replace the connectors on the board for the loudspeaker connection. Once i know if the virtue cable will be better than my present one i will skip the binding post completely and connect the cables directly to the green connector. An aluminum circle same diamter as the one used now for the binding post will be used to mount a strain relief. I did make some withy different holes in the middle so i am sure the right one will be amongst them.
Sincere greetings, Edward


bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #24 on: 23 Jul 2012, 08:37 am »
Hello,
The black disc i did ask about is an ntc  http://www.ametherm.com/datasheetspdf/SL2214007-17.pdf
 I DON'T KNOW IF IT IS A VIRTUE THING OR THE PREVIOUS OWNNER DID INSTALL IT. And he doesn't know either i think. Can anyone help me out? Or did no one ever lifted the m901 circuit board.
Wanna replace the big panasonic cap because it has 2 little dents and it feels a bit warm. I am a bit scared that one day it will implode or explode.
Will change the top plate mounting so i don't have to slide it into place but just can be moved down. At the position of the cap there will be a big round hole where i will weld a small piece of pipe with a cover.
I cannot found the same seize / type of cap at Mouser. There is some progress and they did succeed in making it smaller. I wanna use the T_HA or T_UP type both seem to be close. The T_ha has a higher temperature rating and with the multiplier applied it will give a higher current rating at a temperature below 45 degrees celsius comp[ared to the T-UP model.
With my diy top plate i can install a 105 mm high model.
Yesterday i did open my sensation again. The cable from the board to the volumcontrol seems a good candidate for replacement. It is rather long. Longer than my shortest interconnect. It even has a tie rap to cover up its excessive length. Wanna skip the white slide contact and solder the wires directly to the board on both side. Should this cable be screened? I was thinking about ''braiding '' ( if can manage to do that ) with solid copper a kimber pbj imitation or use the kimber if i can find it in my attic . The holes in the board are close and almost virgin-like.
At first i wanted to lasercut a new stainless steel with engraved letters because mine did have some scratches and you can see on the front side where the welded studs are on the back. But then i will need a copy of the dimensions. IT was a lot of work to find out the dimensions for the holes in the bottomplate. Had to make some holes a bit oval to allow some adjusting. Maybe all dimensions were not in metric dimensions?
If i have to make a pattern with holes like the one used to cover the big bottomplate holes. I will always try to use distances like 80 and 85 mm. Never 80.2 and 85.6 . I mean almost never. If i would make the corresponding part at the same time it will be okay. If 5 years later you need a new cover you will measure the pattern with screws in the holes. You will think one is 80.0 and the other one is 85.0. Make it stainless steel 3mm and you will never forget you had to use a file to make them fit. Probably i will measure again without the screws and let the machine do the work.
If i will solder tyhe cables to and from the pot i will probably not change the front plate at all. I think it will depend if i can get a drawing of the plate as it is i will make one.
There are some other things in the pipe line like comparing the virtue interconnect with my isoda cable and ther loudspeaker cable from virtue with my present loudspeaker cable which is also Isoda.
The better one will be connected directly to the circuit board. Skipping the clamping on the binding post on the outside, the soldering on the binding post on the inside and the crimping on the small white connector. No matter which alloy has been used for the binding post if it is not there it can never degrade the sound. I did go for the bigger '' printconnector " because it can accept bigger cable and higher current. Had to adjust the holes just a bit to make them fit. It was a lot easier to abort then the ones at the input.
Sincere greetings, Edward

bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #25 on: 23 Jul 2012, 10:48 am »
Hello,
I did become a member to a French audiophile website and did start reading. I did read somewhere with class D amps the capacitors in the power supply will get warm. No explanation, maybe i will do some '' googling '' . The T_HA cap is rated for 105 degrees so it might be a bit better?
Sincere greetings, Edward
P.s now it is up to you to do some typing
« Last Edit: 23 Jul 2012, 09:50 pm by bardamu »

bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #26 on: 27 Jul 2012, 01:26 pm »
Hello,
After i will receive my virtue loudspeaker and interconnect cable i am planning to open up my recently bought elipson planet l speakers to see if there is room for upgrading the caps ( depending on their value) with paper in oil probably or polysterene, maybe use the same virtue cable inside too.
If i can sell some stuff maybe i will go for the oppo blu ray. Maybe i will buy it without selling anything. It is hobby after all.
Will return if i feel the need to do so.
Good luck to you all, Edward

Tarzan

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Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #27 on: 28 Jul 2012, 08:08 am »
Hi Edward, would be interested to hear your thoughts on the interconnect and speaker cables. :D

bardamu

Re: diy cap upgrade
« Reply #28 on: 12 Aug 2012, 11:23 pm »
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108936.0
Hello,
Happy to come across someone who seems to be on the same wavelength. My cables did leave Los Angeles airport, let us hope customs will do a quick job so i can start mutulating my sensation again.
Yes, let us share some thoughts.
Ooh should stop typing and enjoy my virtue instead, like all the others do.