The black disc i did ask about is an ntc http://www.ametherm.com/datasheetspdf/SL2214007-17.pdf
I DON'T KNOW IF IT IS A VIRTUE THING OR THE PREVIOUS OWNNER DID INSTALL IT. And he doesn't know either i think. Can anyone help me out? Or did no one ever lifted the m901 circuit board.
Wanna replace the big panasonic cap because it has 2 little dents and it feels a bit warm. I am a bit scared that one day it will implode or explode.
Will change the top plate mounting so i don't have to slide it into place but just can be moved down. At the position of the cap there will be a big round hole where i will weld a small piece of pipe with a cover.
I cannot found the same seize / type of cap at Mouser. There is some progress and they did succeed in making it smaller. I wanna use the T_HA or T_UP type both seem to be close. The T_ha has a higher temperature rating and with the multiplier applied it will give a higher current rating at a temperature below 45 degrees celsius comp[ared to the T-UP model.
With my diy top plate i can install a 105 mm high model.
Yesterday i did open my sensation again. The cable from the board to the volumcontrol seems a good candidate for replacement. It is rather long. Longer than my shortest interconnect. It even has a tie rap to cover up its excessive length. Wanna skip the white slide contact and solder the wires directly to the board on both side. Should this cable be screened? I was thinking about ''braiding '' ( if can manage to do that ) with solid copper a kimber pbj imitation or use the kimber if i can find it in my attic . The holes in the board are close and almost virgin-like.
At first i wanted to lasercut a new stainless steel with engraved letters because mine did have some scratches and you can see on the front side where the welded studs are on the back. But then i will need a copy of the dimensions. IT was a lot of work to find out the dimensions for the holes in the bottomplate. Had to make some holes a bit oval to allow some adjusting. Maybe all dimensions were not in metric dimensions?
If i have to make a pattern with holes like the one used to cover the big bottomplate holes. I will always try to use distances like 80 and 85 mm. Never 80.2 and 85.6 . I mean almost never. If i would make the corresponding part at the same time it will be okay. If 5 years later you need a new cover you will measure the pattern with screws in the holes. You will think one is 80.0 and the other one is 85.0. Make it stainless steel 3mm and you will never forget you had to use a file to make them fit. Probably i will measure again without the screws and let the machine do the work.
If i will solder tyhe cables to and from the pot i will probably not change the front plate at all. I think it will depend if i can get a drawing of the plate as it is i will make one.
There are some other things in the pipe line like comparing the virtue interconnect with my isoda cable and ther loudspeaker cable from virtue with my present loudspeaker cable which is also Isoda.
The better one will be connected directly to the circuit board. Skipping the clamping on the binding post on the outside, the soldering on the binding post on the inside and the crimping on the small white connector. No matter which alloy has been used for the binding post if it is not there it can never degrade the sound. I did go for the bigger '' printconnector " because it can accept bigger cable and higher current. Had to adjust the holes just a bit to make them fit. It was a lot easier to abort then the ones at the input.
Sincere greetings, Edward