[andyr]

Unfortunately Andyr, my ribbon cables are 40mm wide and difficult to fit on the Maggies.  One day I'll have the courage to take the cover plate off and bypass the jumper altogether!  In the meantime I shall try your suggestion of multiple thin solid cores and see how that goes.
Cheers

Please do report back. 

Regards,

Andy

[rw@cn]

Well I received my DH Lab Q 10 jumpers to match my speaker cables and I am a happy camper (at least for now). I was unhappy with the provided jumper, the Cardas jumper was a bit better but the tweeters did not have the same sound signature as the other components, and the provided resistor just truncated the highs.

The DH Lab jumpers cost $32.50 (for two) are about six inches long and do the job marvelously. There is no longer a discontinuity between the tweeter and the rest of the speaker. The highs have the same sound signature as the mid range and low end. Furthermore, all of the high harshness is gone (I will find out more as I listen to more music.). I want to thank the folks at DH Lab for their help. They are great folks with great products.

 Many of us (including myself) disparage the Magnepan folks for providing those cheap jumpers. I think we need to stop this. I now look at the stock jumpers as a temporary configuration until we users provide jumpers that match our speaker cables. I wish Magnepan would adopt this point of view and include it in their literature.

[Minn Mark]

I now look at the stock jumpers as a temporary configuration until we users provide jumpers that match our speaker cables

So why not bi-wire?  The Maggie terminals work great for bi-wiring. I bi-wired my 3.6Rs with double runs of the 12AWG I got from Parts Express. 

Mark

[rw@cn]

Can't biwire 1.7's unless I modify speakers. The cross-over is internal. 3.7's are the same.

[cityjim]

 Best jumpers are the ones that you bypass totally. Why would you want anything in the way of your musical signal? I bypassed mine in my 20.1R's and have never looked back.

 Throw those resistors in the garbage. Those are for people with class D equipment, well solid state in general. It helps tame down that fatiguing top end on SS gear.

cityjim

[Rclark]

Are we discussing the attenuator bar?

[SteveFord]

Si.
I need to buy some Kimber Kable to hook up my MMGs so I'll use that to make up a bunch of jumpers at the same time.

[luke357sig]

I use 10 gauge solid silver wire from Tempo Electric.  Sounds good to me with my 1.7s.  Of course I got it before the price of silver went crazy.

[andyr]

I use 10 gauge solid silver wire from Tempo Electric.  Sounds good to me with my 1.7s.  Of course I got it before the price of silver went crazy.

Given that the purpose of the jumpers is to pass the HF signal to the tweeters, I suggest solid 10g is not a good thing - far too thick.

You are not sending so many amps through it that you need a very thick wire and, if you believe in "skin effect", you are damaging the high frequencies by using such a thick wire.

If you don't believe in skin effect, have a read of this table  :
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


Regards,

Andy

[Chuckdog2005]

I definitely don't care for the sound resistors in the signal path. As of now I using the oem supplied jumpers. Your preferred speaker cable sounds, (pardon the pun) like a good idea to me.

Like many, to my ears the digital harshness could be quite fatiguing.
With the recent addition of a Sabre based DaciT the upper mids and highs produced by my 1.7's is now much more pleasing.

Speaker wire jumpers seems like a logical choice for my next tweak?

Thanks' Chuck D.