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If you're still looking to refurbish the crossover in these speakers, I suggest replacing the electrolytic caps (light blue cans) with film caps. Polypropylene dielectric would offer the lowest distortion. I see no need for fancy caps in this (or any) application. The fancier caps tend to measure worse. Wima MKP would be great. Solen has a bunch of options as well.Tom
Can I ditch the 8 daisy chained Nichicons and put a single cap in instead ??
If the caps are connected in series or parallel, you can replace them with one cap. Finding a cap of the right value might be a challenge. That could be why the caps are currently "daisy chained". If you can draw a schematic of the crossover and label it with the parts values, I'll be happy to help.It looks like the inductors are air core, which is nice.Tom
First off, how do you know the caps are bad and need to be replaced? I would snip out a cap and take it to an electronics repair shop to test it. Replacing all the caps for some nebulous idea that new caps will "improve" the sound is somewhat misguided. Those old speakers are probably not the last word in detail retrieval so in all likelihood it would not make a difference.But it sounds like you are on a mission. I suggest you modify one speaker at a time, that way you always have a reference as to what goes where. Plus you can compare the finished improved speaker to the original. Hint: keep all the old parts in case the magic is gone.
That does make sense but isn`t 33 years a long time for those caps ?
Yes, I want to recap the crossovers. Can I ditch the 8 daisy chained Nichicons and put a single cap in instead ??
From a quick inspection, not quite. The section I can see clearly has two 100uF caps in parallel, then in series to another two 100 uF caps in parallel... then two wires T into the circuit, then repeat the first part?The first 4 100uF caps all added together equal--- 100uF, if the quick math in my head is right. So, what was the designer doing to use 4 caps to do the work of one?? The power handling is changed, but there's easier ways to solve that with much less labor. Replace each set of 4 with a 100uF 100V (or more) cap. They range from $.50 to $3.00 at Digikey. Or... leave them be, and add a pair of decent bypass caps across each cluster of 4. 1 uF Sonicaps from Sonic Craft at about $8 should work. ,Or do both, and you are still only out the cost of a dinner out. But we still don't know what that part of the crossover controls. I'd start from the tweeter and work backwards to the input, noting all caps directly in the path. If that's a 4 way design, I'd keep my upgrades simple. And one other thing... those are pretty decent driver in this speaker, actually rather highish end for the day. This could be time well spent. Good luck.
If you think these are worth up to a $500 investment, contact Danny Richie and have him build new crossovers and reinforce the cabinets. Instead of screwing around with pictures on the internet and guys like me, Danny is about as good as it gets at crossover design. There is no way I'd touch a four way crossover, even if it was in my shop. They are just too many interactions for amateurs. http://gr-research.com/
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