BatteryBUSS group buy!!!

dBe · « **Reply #40 on:** 27 Apr 2011, 03:28 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 27 Apr 2011, 01:20 pm

Yes! < $1M

It is actually about 105.3dB less than $1M

I got a price from them yesterday.

Pricing for removing the power supply, building the adapters (and stuff) and adding the power plug to the 2010 Mini (can't do it for earlier models) is $249.00 for new customers and $199.00 for existing customers as well as customers that are ordering their package. They will be releasing an availability date soon. They are backed up with orders after AXPONA and need to catch up. I will be posting here on my circle when they are accepting Minis for modification.

The mod is completely reversible should you wish to sell the Mini at a later date.

It is worth every penny

Dave

tasar · « **Reply #41 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 02:36 am »

Dave....That said, you're still looking(holding) forward to the 2011 Mini design before executing the batterybuss, correct ?

I'm also not clear on outlets for the buss. We've potential for one going to a pre, an amp, the mini, perhaps the DAC, and questionably for other low DC powered devices as a hard drive. I honestly am not near my equipment, do the HD walwarts do the AC/DC thing ?

dBe · « **Reply #42 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 02:57 am »

Quote from: tasar on 28 Apr 2011, 02:36 am

Dave....That said, you're still looking(holding) forward to the 2011 Mini design before executing the batterybuss, correct ?

I'm also not clear on outlets for the buss. We've potential for one going to a pre, an amp, the mini, perhaps the DAC, and questionably for other low DC powered devices as a hard drive. I honestly am not near my equipment, do the HD walwarts do the AC/DC thing ?

I was encouraged rather forcefully to get the lead (acid?) out and get the BB going, so there is a group buy that is almost fully reserved for the 2010 MacMini. Of course a lot depends on the Mach2 guys right now. They are swamped with orders and a backlog after the AXPONA show so I'm not sure what to tell you about their state of readiness. Of course the BatteryBUSS is not just intended for the Mac Mini, but for all of the other battery powered gear out there, too. Batteries make noise. The sulfation process is a chemical reaction and that is not a silent process. The BatteryBUSS addresses noise problems as well as being a very low output impedance DC supply. There is room for 4 outputs of different types on the front of the enclosure. They can be unregulated battery voltage or regulated supplies for HDD, DC powered DACs and the like. Wallwarts suck... it doesn't matter if they are AC or DC... they SUCK! A solid state HD running on a noisefree 5V power supply is a thing of beauty, so is a 1 or 2 TB drive running on clean DC. Battery id=s a good thing. Noiseless (or as close as we can get to that) is better.

Dave

dBe · « **Reply #43 on:** 6 May 2011, 05:31 pm »

After some ordeals in sourcing components (a small guy like me lives and/or dies at the whims of vendors) I have everything on hand to build the exemplar for the group buy. I will do so during the next few days and have pictures for you all to see and pricing on the cabling that determines the accessory output voltages. All of the BatteryBUSSes will have a main unregulated 12VDC out and accessory outputs - an unregulated 12VDC out and a regulated 5VDC @ 1.5A out. The two accessory output connectors are wired identically with both 12VDC and 5VDC available at each one. The connecting cable to the accessory is what determines the voltage to that device. It was easier to do this way in the context of flexibility of use.

More to come...

Dave

praedet · « **Reply #44 on:** 7 May 2011, 03:23 pm »

Awesome Dave, sounds great!

OzarkTom · « **Reply #45 on:** 11 Jun 2011, 10:46 pm »

Hi Dave, I just ran across this topic, I guess the group buy is over?

dBe · « **Reply #46 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 01:36 am »

Quote from: OzarkTom on 11 Jun 2011, 10:46 pm

Hi Dave, I just ran across this topic, I guess the group buy is over?

Yep, sorry Tom. I'm building and shipping those units now. It took a while to get everything sourced and stocked. I've taken several production orders for the next batch, too.

Dave

mikeeastman · « **Reply #47 on:** 14 Jun 2011, 04:43 pm »

Dave I'm looking at putting together a 14 volt battery bank and wondered if your buss could be moded to work with 14 volts?

dBe · « **Reply #48 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 02:27 am »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 14 Jun 2011, 04:43 pm

Dave I'm looking at putting together a 14 volt battery bank and wondered if your buss could be moded to work with 14 volts?

Mike it will work with any voltage up to and including 30-32VDC. If you want an "real 12VDC" out, I'll need to add a 12V LDO regulator, though.. No worries.

Dave

mikeeastman · « **Reply #49 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 03:18 am »

In that case I can rewire my present bank to 24 volt, my amps and dac will work with up to 15 volts,the dac uses a XLR connector for power, my mac book pro needs 18 volts, so could you set the buss up to do that? Any reason not to do that, or is there something else that would be better?

dBe · « **Reply #50 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 02:57 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 15 Jun 2011, 03:18 am

In that case I can rewire my present bank to 24 volt, my amps and dac will work with up to 15 volts,the dac uses a XLR connector for power, my mac book pro needs 18 volts, so could you set the buss up to do that? Any reason not to do that, or is there something else that would be better?

Sure, not a problem. Your Pro will need a high current 18V supply and I can source Linear Technology LT 1083 LDO regulators that will handle the load. This way we can give the DAC a regulated power supply, too. The Dodd will do its own regulation internally and every one will be happy.

It will cost a tad bit more to do this, but I don't think the price increase will exceed $40.00. I work (too) cheap.

Dave

mikeeastman · « **Reply #51 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 09:34 pm »

Thanks Dave I will contact you when I'm ready. Sounds like you do work to cheap.

Mike

HAL · « **Reply #52 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 10:38 pm »

Repeating what Trung posted in another thread, if you are going to use a 12V filament tube with the Dodd Buffer, you will need to have a regulator for that as well. The 6V filament tubes would be fine as there is a 6V regulator.

mikeeastman · « **Reply #53 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 11:27 pm »

Thanks Hal, I'm using 6v tube. What about relay Trung mentioned do you know what its rated at or were I might find out?

HAL · « **Reply #54 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 11:45 pm »

The question really is what is the drive circuit for the relays rated for max voltage. There is more to it than just providing 12VDC to the relays, as there is a driver circuit.

That would be a question for Gary to answer.

mikeeastman · « **Reply #55 on:** 15 Jun 2011, 11:59 pm »

I realized there are no relays in the buffer I'm building as they are on the circuit board, Which I'm not using. see pics. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm new to all this. Thanks, Mike

HAL · « **Reply #56 on:** 16 Jun 2011, 12:19 am »

Mike,
Here is what I would do and why.

The tube filament regulator is 6VDC output. The input in your case would be 24VDC. This means the regulator is dropping 18VDC. The 6H30P tube series is rated at 0.9A filament current. In this case the regulator would be dissapating 18V * 0.9A = 16.2 Watts of power. The heatsink that is on the L7806 regulator is probably to small for that heat dissipation. I would really recommend that you use a 12VDC feed for the tube buffer to avoid this. That might be possible with the BB from Dave, as he already discussed adding a 12V regulator.

dBe · « **Reply #57 on:** 16 Jun 2011, 04:15 am »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 15 Jun 2011, 09:34 pm

Thanks Dave I will contact you when I'm ready. Sounds like you do work to cheap.

Mike

Mike, I love what I do and I'm in this for the long haul. I'm not a hit and run audioesoterrorist looking for a quick score.

I'll be here.

Enjoy this hobby/obsession - you are in a great place with many great people.

Dave

dBe · « **Reply #58 on:** 16 Jun 2011, 04:25 am »

Quote from: HAL on 16 Jun 2011, 12:19 am

Mike,
Here is what I would do and why.

The tube filament regulator is 6VDC output. The input in your case would be 24VDC. This means the regulator is dropping 18VDC. The 6H30P tube series is rated at 0.9A filament current. In this case the regulator would be dissapating 18V * 0.9A = 16.2 Watts of power. The heatsink that is on the L7806 regulator is probably to small for that heat dissipation. I would really recommend that you use a 12VDC feed for the tube buffer to avoid this. That might be possible with the BB from Dave, as he already discussed adding a 12V regulator.

Great advice. That heatsink is too small for sure to dissipate 16W. The 12V regulator that I would use is a 7A unit which is overkill, but that is how I roll. That will get that dissipation way down.

Another thing I like to do is mount thw Wakefield or Aavid heatsinks like that one on a piece of rectangular aluminum tubing (1/8" wall) with the openings in the tubing venting through the bottom and top of the chassis creating a chimney. Works great and is always something to talk about when the guys come over.

Dave

mikeeastman · « **Reply #59 on:** 16 Jun 2011, 01:39 pm »

Dave, could I mount regulator on the buffer amp chassis as I want to build a second one and mount them in speakers to bi amp, so I would prefer to only have one power cord to each? Like the idea of alum tube for heat sink. On my final build I plan to line inside of chassis with copper sheeting and have cut out in chassis but not copper to dissipate the heat, any thoughts on this idea? and could I use copper tubing instead of alum?

Mike