[viggen]

Ordered new wheels from Chain Reaction Cycles on April 1st and received them this morning (April 8th).  That's pretty quick all the way from UK.  I also ordered a cassette which I was to pick up at Performance Bike.  I needed the LBS to install the cassette on the new wheel.  So, I needed to bring the bike to the LBS.  My wife with the Accord is at work, so I have to purchase a bike rack to transport my bike to the LBS.  And, there's virtually no bike rack that is designed to be used with my car, BMW Z4 roadster 03. 

I found Saris Solo online, but Saris didn't recommend the Solo to be used with Z4.  But, I went to store to check it out anyways and brought it home to test with assurance that I can return if it didn't work.  Well, it works very well for the purpose I bought it for which is to take it somewhere local.  I don't think I have full confidence taking it on the freeway or anywhere far especially since I don't have assurance from the manufacturer. 

But, it fits!  After I tightened the straps, the rack doesn't budge at all.  I do have two reservations though.  First, the bottom strap hook is supposed to hook onto the truck hatch.  However, for my application, I have to hook the strap hook to the bottom of my rear fender which is just a sheet of plastic.  Would be more stable if the strap hook is connected to sheet metal instead.  Second, because my car is very low and the rack is placed at a lower part of the car than where it is probably intended, there's very little clearance between the road and my bike's wheels.  Can I get some opinions on whether I have enough clearance?  I do hope I can take my bike up to say Big Bear to do some climbing.  I could take the wheels off and put them in the trunk though that will take up precious trunk space.








I just got back from the LBS after getting the cassette installed on the wheels.  The LBS even replaced my front wheel speedometer magnet from one of those huge screw on types to a small snap on type.  I was biking in the freezing cold yesterday.  It was gusty and 50 degrees.  But, hey, I am Southern Californian.  I am a hot house flower.  Biking in 50 to me is COLD.  So, resting up a head cold.  But, did take a short ride around the block.  I can't believe how much difference a wheel upgrade makes in terms of weight.  In fact, I don't feel safe while on the bike because it feels less solid now.  I will get used to it after the weather gets warmer, I am sure.

[strider]

It's difficult to tell exactly how close the wheel is to the garage floor because of the angle, but that might worry me a bit. If you're headed up into the hills, the back ends gonna be closer to the ground anyway. Couple that with a bump, the suspension compresses, rack moves, it may hit. Those wheels look pricey, less spokes always meant more $$ when I was really riding.....

[jackman]

Very cool.  I would measure the distance between the tire and the ground and email the company to see if there is enough clearance.  I like the look of the Saris and the BMW.  Those new wheels also look cool. 

It's funny but I know what you mean about wheel stability.  Newer wheel designs are lighter and pretty strong for their weight but heavier wheels can feel more stable and they are usually more durable (than low spoke-count lightweight wheels).  Your old spokes were probably unbutted and you probably had lots of spokes in the old wheels.  This is a good thing on downhill runs but not so much fun when you are trying to pedal the bike uphill!

Please let us know how you like the new wheels and the new rack.  Both are very cool looking.

[viggen]

It's difficult to tell exactly how close the wheel is to the garage floor because of the angle, but that might worry me a bit. If you're headed up into the hills, the back ends gonna be closer to the ground anyway. Couple that with a bump, the suspension compresses, rack moves, it may hit. Those wheels look pricey, less spokes always meant more $$ when I was really riding.....

Here is a picture with better viewing angle and a ruler:




With barely 3" clearance, I don't think it will be safe driving around with bike racked unless I remove the wheels.  I won't be driving off road or anything.  I think road hazard or large speed bumps will be the main obstacles.

I do want to add though my rear view isn't blocked.  This wouldn't be the case with other bike racks.

[viggen]

Very cool.  I would measure the distance between the tire and the ground and email the company to see if there is enough clearance.  I like the look of the Saris and the BMW.  Those new wheels also look cool. 

It's funny but I know what you mean about wheel stability.  Newer wheel designs are lighter and pretty strong for their weight but heavier wheels can feel more stable and they are usually more durable (than low spoke-count lightweight wheels).  Your old spokes were probably unbutted and you probably had lots of spokes in the old wheels.  This is a good thing on downhill runs but not so much fun when you are trying to pedal the bike uphill!

Please let us know how you like the new wheels and the new rack.  Both are very cool looking.

Saris will tell me to use their Sentinel model.  Don't think they want the liability of telling me to use the Solo.  I don't like the look of the Sentinel though.  Solo's minimalistic design won me over.  I like Saris' other racks too such as the Bones, but those don't fit according to Saris.  I think I have to exchange for the Sentinel eventually.  Will sleep on it for a few days. 

The old wheels, R500, has 20/24 spokes whereas the new, Ultegra, has 16/20 spokes.  That can account for some weight shavings.  No idea about the butting.  The Ultegra's spokes are semi bladed.  I was told the R500's hub's weight is very substantial by one LBS sales guy.  Total weight wise we're talking 1900 grams vs 1652 grams per wheelset.  What is that like half a pound difference?  That's not a lot of weight.  But, the feel between the two wheel sets are very different.

I will report back after I put some miles on the wheels.

[konut]

Mount the bike upside down and bungee cord it to the straps for stability.

[viggen]

Well, I returned the Saris Solo.  I don't want to risk hooking the bottom hook onto my rear fender.  And, of course, I need a taller rack.  Next time, I think I will try a Saris Bones 2.  I saw some pics of Z4C using them on Google.

Speaking of the Ultegra wheels, I still haven't taken it out for a ride but did ride on the roller for about 11 miles.  It's the easiest 11 miles I've ever ridden on the roller.  Usually, after 10 miles, my legs are beat, and I am drenched in sweat.  Also, I balance on the roller so much more effortlessly too.

The new wheels can't take all the credit.  I did put in a lot of miles this past month. 

Also, I tried to do some stupid bike roller tricks (see youtube) like biking with only one leg clipped to the pedals at a time.  I can only do this with a hand on a wall right now.  But, I immediately can tell how bad my peddling form is when attempting this.  I can hardly make a complete rotation with one leg.  After practicing this a bit, I started peddling more effortlessly as well as with a faster cadence. 

Next time on the rollers, I am going to pedal with no hands on the bar.  You watch.

[LadyDog]

I have the Bones on my car.  Can't remember if it is the 2 or 3.  Great adjustability.  Though it will probably impact your rear view mirror viewing a bit.

Wheels look very nice. 

Don't be a tease, we need a full frontal bike pic to see that Fuji.

Btw, love the car.

[viggen]

Don't be a tease, we need a full frontal bike pic to see that Fuji.

Btw, love the car.

Thanks!

[jackman]

Cool bike and nice looking wheels!  It's going to be hard finding a rack that allows for rear visibility and good tire clearance on that bike.  You have a low car and have to find a rack that elevates the bike high enough to use it safely and this will probably affect your rear window visibility. 

Also, it's good to hear you are liking the new wheels.  Your experience on the trainer is most likely psychosomatic (sp?) because the lightest wheels in the world will not make you noticeably faster (or reduce effort) on a trainer or rollers (unless your old ones had really bad bearings).  My new wheels (on my new Powertap set) have very light spokes (DT Swiss Aerolite) and I can feel a slight difference on bumpy down-hill runs versus my Bontrager Race wheels.  The new wheels are stiff but not as stiff as the heavy Bonty rims.  They ride a bit smoother and are lighter (enen with the Powertap hub) but I believe the Bontrager rims were a bit more solid.  Not much but maybe a bit. 

Either way, my times for the 41 mile training rides were no better with the new wheels.  I did some 1 minute intervals to track baseline power but lost the data due to a stupid mistake that was totally my fault.  Need to do it again tomorrow, minus the mistake. 

Cheers,

J

[bunnyma357]

Another alternative, although a little more invasive, is to put a hitch on the Z4 and use that mount. I have it on my Miata and it works quite well.  Plus it gives you access to the trunk even with the bikes on the rack.




Jim C

[viggen]

Also, it's good to hear you are liking the new wheels.  Your experience on the trainer is most likely psychosomatic (sp?) because the lightest wheels in the world will not make you noticeably faster (or reduce effort) on a trainer or rollers (unless your old ones had really bad bearings). 

Yah I think there's more going on than just new wheels.  I think the shop put in more air in the tires than I usually have it at when I use the rollers which is about 85psi.  Shop probably pumped in 120psi.  Wheel weight probably won't make any difference on a roller but hub bearing resistance or lack of probably would.  And, my legs got stronger? 

My new wheels (on my new Powertap set) have very light spokes (DT Swiss Aerolite) and I can feel a slight difference on bumpy down-hill runs versus my Bontrager Race wheels.  The new wheels are stiff but not as stiff as the heavy Bonty rims.  They ride a bit smoother and are lighter (enen with the Powertap hub) but I believe the Bontrager rims were a bit more solid.  Not much but maybe a bit.

 

I think I know what you're talking about.  At first I liked the more solid feel of my old wheels.  But, my new wheels has a certain velvety lightness that I was apprehensive about at first but am really growing to like it.  This part might be psychosomatic but really think it's easier to turn the crank with the new wheels now.  Haven't taken the bike up and down hills yet.  Will do tomorrow.

Either way, my times for the 41 mile training rides were no better with the new wheels.  I did some 1 minute intervals to track baseline power but lost the data due to a stupid mistake that was totally my fault.  Need to do it again tomorrow, minus the mistake. 

Cheers,

J

Let me know how your power meter helps you in your training.  I just got a puter with cadence and only been biking on rollers this week.  But, knowing my cadence seems very beneficial to me thus far.  Do wonder how other types of data will help.

[viggen]

Another alternative, although a little more invasive, is to put a hitch on the Z4 and use that mount. I have it on my Miata and it works quite well.  Plus it gives you access to the trunk even with the bikes on the rack.

Jim C

I am contemplating going the hitch route.  Shop I bought the Saris Solo suggested it too as he got one installed on his Honda Insight.  Even recommended the shop where he got it done which also installs removable hitches.  If the Bones don't work, then I have no choice.  Thanks for the suggestion!

[viggen]

Just installed my new aerobar yesterday.  It's a Profile Design T2 Plus DL.  The DL model signifies the bars are shorter and is designed to be used on road bikes and are draft legal though I am not certain what draft illegal means. 

Took me about 3 mins to put it on my bike then about another 20 mins to fine tune.  I haven't taken the bike out on the road yet and only been on rollers this past week.  But, I find the aerobar to be very comfortable.  I do not think the aero position to be aggressive at all.  I actually hang lower when I hold on to the drop bars. 

This model doesn't come with flip-up pads.  I chose not to get those as I've read those break easily.  After riding on my rollers, I am finding that I wish I got the flip-up pads as it's a bit harder holding on to the top bars now.  My hands get sore faster now that the aerobar is covering up most of the top bar thus limits my hand position options.

I do like the size of the aerobar.  The length does not protrude beyond the hood.  So, it doesn't give my bike too much of that Tri look.  My fingers do wrap around the aerobridge though.  I did angle down the bars to try to get a more aggressive aero position, but this ended up putting more pressure on my wrist, so I ended up at my current position as seen in pic.

[viggen]

Got a bout of the Achilles tendinitis.  Actually got it a few weeks ago but didn't think much of it.  Went jogging last week, and it really started to hurt.  My left ankle started to hurt due to improper cleat positioning.  Compared left and right cleat and found the left to be ahead of the right by a bit more than a centimeter.  This cause my left foot to "ankling".

Adjusted the left cleat back, and my ankle stopped hurting while biking but still hurts when walking especially up and down stairs.  Still didn't think much of this until I did some research about it and found it to be potentially serious for bikers and athletes in general.  Sheldon Brown, the bike guru, suffered it for 40 years after he practiced ankling. 

I don't think it's serious enough to go to a doctor yet, so I tried some remedies I found on youtube.  I did various ankle stretches and did the Graston (Gua Sha) technique to scrape off scar tissue.  After a day or so, I feel fine.  I took a few days off biking to rest my ankle, and biked again this morning.  No pain for a few hours right after biking.  But, felt a tinge going down the stairs about 3 hrs after biking.  I think it's improving. 

[viggen]

Started seriously road biking during first week of March.  My goal is to first ride a nonstop century (cept for potty breaks) then to ride to Las Vegas where my sister lives if I can find a safe route.  That's about 300 miles from Irvine where I live.  I hope to do this before June-ish.

I've been adding mileage first going 30 miles daily then 50 miles daily.  I just got a new bike computer, Sigma 1909, with cadence and heart rate monitor.  I haven't used it on the road yet but been using it on the roller.  I find that my pedaling technique has inadvertently improved with the addition of the new bike computer. 

Previously, when I was on the rollers, I would warm up on the inner rings then gradually move to the outter rings to increase resistance.  Now, I think this only teaches my legs to mash the pedals harder but not as efficiently. 

After I got the new bike computer, I am really paying more attention to bike pedaling efficiency.  I am taking notice of making smaller turns with glute and thigh muscles instead of just mashing with my quads.  So, I seem to be working on new sets of muscles that I was previously ignoring. 

Now, instead of just adding resistance by gearing up, I am trying to achieve a higher sustainable cadence.  I still ride only 10 miles at a time on the roller.  I warm up 0-2 miles. 100rpm 2-4 miles. 80 rpm 4-4.5 miles. 120 rpm 4.5-5 miles. 80 rpm 5-6 miles. 100 rpm 6-8. 80rpm 8-8.5. 120rpm 8.5-9. Cool down 9-10. 

I do have to gear up when I pedal faster so I don't bottom out.  Currently, first ring for warm ups and 80rpm, second ring for 100rpm, third ring for 120rpm, and 4th ring for standing when I do for about 20 pedals during the 80 rpm session to get my butt off the seat.

I think after awhile, I will increase the 120rpm time from half a mile to 1 mile.  I do not find riding on rollers that enjoyable, so, currently thinking of ways to maximize my roller training in the shortest mileage per session as possible.

My high is about 140rpm.  Could probably go as high as 150rpm but afraid I might fall off the roller.  Max heart rate is 170 at 120rpm.  It's about 140 at 80 rpm.

[viggen]

Updates on three fronts.

1. Drove down the San Diego and bought a vintage bike from a bike restorer in Chula Vista.  A 1970s Bottecchia Giro d'Italia.  It's got Columbus tubing with a mix of Campy and Nervar Star parts.  Bike restorer put on 27" tires with Normandy hubs.  I just got a rear Super Champion Gentleman 700c with Record hub.  Looking for a matching front now.


2. On the bike rack front, I picked up a Saris Bones which works nicely with the Z4. 

3. Picked up a Fuji Toyota United road race bike from a local CL seller.  Seller claims it is originally ridden by Chris Wherry, Toyota United's team captain before the team disbanded.  So, it is an actual race bike not a replica.  And, it is claimed the frame is Scandium.  I wish there is a way to verify these claims.  According to my research, Toyota team all road Easton Scandium frames in 2006 before migrating to Fuji CF in 2007.  Seller told me Chris wanted to stay with the Scandium and got his old frame painted with the new design. 

The bike COULD be a Fuji Roubaix LTD 2008.  I went to Performance today and lifted a few Roubaix frames.  These have Fuji's own Altamira alu. frames.  These are thick-walled, heavy and feel nothing like the bike presented here.  So, I don't think this example is a Roubaix LTD with Altamira tubing.

I haven't weighed the bike yet, but my Fuji Team Carbon is about 21lbs and maybe 23lbs with the aerobar but with slightly lighter wheels (Shimano Ultegra 6700).  The Toyota is subjectively feather light in comparison with slightly heavier wheels (Bontrager Classics).

The bike is 54cm seat tube c-c and 58cm top tube.  That's a bit of a weird duck but probably good for keeping the weight down by using a smaller frame.  Chris Wherry is 6'1".  I measured myself on Competitive Cyclist's fit computer and I came out to be a 54cm though I am 6'. 



Sorry for not posting pic with drive train facing the camera.  It's all Dura Ace 7800.

[LadyDog]

Nice bike Viggen.  Both of them.

Typically aluminum bikes have some pretty thick welds where the tubes join together.  So other than a sticker being on the seat tube, that may be the easiest way to tell if the United is carbon or not.  Which is not necessarily a bad thing. 

[jackman]

Hey, cool looking bikes.  Have you become a collector?  I hope you are out there racking up lots of miles on them!  I often think (and talk!) about getting a new bike.  I just completed 41 miles at a decent pace on a very windy day and feel like I could do another 40!  After my last fitting, my bike is dialed in nicely.  I don't use any chamois cream or wear gloves with padding (I like to use the back of glove to wipe my face off) and I have no pain anywhere. 

At the moment, I'm too lazy to spend the time to dial in a new bike.  Looks more and more like this one will be my main ride for at least another year!  Cheers and post some stuff about your riding experience (please)!  I'm looking forward to hearing about how that new Fuji does on the road.

Cheers,

J

[viggen]

Nice bike Viggen.  Both of them.

Typically aluminum bikes have some pretty thick welds where the tubes join together.  So other than a sticker being on the seat tube, that may be the easiest way to tell if the United is carbon or not.  Which is not necessarily a bad thing.

Thanks for the comment.

I don't think the Toyota has thick welds.  The welds on the Toyota are very clean compared to my previous alu. bike, a Giant OCR3.  Maybe I don't know what thick welds look like... There's no stickers on this bike btw which makes sense if this really was a race bike?

Here's a pic of the weld at the down and seat tube where they meet the top tube.