poty,
Thanks for your reply. I have done a bit more testing, and thought I'd
report back.
To clarify, case D with the input shorted is very, very quiet. It
takes an ear <3" from the tweeter, and the other ear plugged to hear.
I assumed any residual noise was my crude shorting with an aligator
clip on male end of a short interconnect. About interconnects, I've
tried a few. My "best" is a ~5' length of Belden 1505F with Canare
RCA connectors, from blue jeans cable. I've also tested with a
variety of generic cables--I can't notice any difference. I happen to
have other cables arriving today, and could test more, but I can't
imagine any change.
My tubes are a Telefunken 12au7 and a Brimar 12ax7. I did try a set
of Sovteks in their place, with no difference in measurements (below)
or sound. The rectifier is a Sovtek, and I don't have another to try.
After this session of testing, I think I should add that Case A does
have hum and some buzz in the larger drivers. At any distance, it's
overwhelmed by the hiss though.
I haven't yet tried anything with the balanced connection. I did take
a closter look at the Chime, and took a few oscilloscope measurements
to try and get a handle on things. Not surprisingly, I'm left with
more questions than answers. Note that I didn't build this Chime. I
bought it used. I don't know whether it was bought pre-built from
Hagtech or not.
To be sure, ought the chassis of the Chime have continuity with the
RCA shields? This persists when I remove the "earth" lead from the
chime board. The RCAs are clearly insulated away, but the USB
connector likely is not.
I spent a long time scoping outputs of all devices. With nothing
connected to the A23 (Case D), the voltage difference across +/-
speaker terminals is *extremely* quiet, and zero. Any noise I did see
was in excess of 20Mhz. A speaker was connected.
The line-level output of the Chime was a bit more noisy (<1-3mV peak
to peak--I can't accurately measure very low values), and exhibited a
strange DC drift of +/- 60mV (120mV p/p) at slow (1-2 second)
timescales, with intermittent peaks off the 200mV scale I happened to
use for this. The drift is such that it will move to a voltage, hold
close to it for a second or two, and then slew on to another. By my
estimation, positive and negative values were equally likely, and more
extreme voltages were more rarely attained. Both channels of the
Chime were absolutely identical.
I don't have a solid enough understanding of the Chime to reason much
about this. It does surprise me that C409 could pass so much DC.
There seemed to be some correlation of slew with other equipment in
the house (fridge, furnace, etc.), but I tried power from an APC line
conditioner, an APC Smart UPS, the wall, and from another outlet from
my neighbors, who are on a different mains service transformer.
Finally, I ran on UPS power (it is a sine-wave UPS, and produces a
sine wave better than my sharp-peaked utility power wave), with the
mains entirely shut off to my house. None of this changed the
behavior, or the hiss/hum when connected through to the speakers.
Most of my measurements were made using two probes in a differential
setup, to avoid inducing a ground with the oscilloscope. I tested
line-level signals with a single probe and found no difference. I was
afraid of grounding a speaker terminal.
The next thing I considered is case A connectivity, with a probe on
one speaker terminal, and another on the other channel of the Chime.
The DC offset is passed through to the speaker, at approximately 1.5x
the line-level voltage. Curiously, the speaker offset seems to
*preceed* the line level change. I think what is really going on is
that the A23 is amplifying the offset, making it move very quickly for
small incident offsets, and then slowing down up to some limit.
I know DC is bad for speakers, but how much is bad?
One thing that did occur during my initial testing, is that I
apparently destroyed the tweeter on the speaker I was testing with.
The tweeter no longer conducts electricity, and clearly has a burned,
disconnected coil upon dissassembly. I did accidentally try to connect
a cable while the amp was on before noticing the tweeter was dead,
producing a momentary static. Sadly, I thought I'd fixed the hiss,
only to find the speaker broken. I can't say for sure that I was the
cause, but will take the blame absent some other explanation. Your
note about high frequency did get me thinking.
(Incidentally, given that this tweeter unbolts, exposing the voice
coil which is wrapped around the diaphragm, are there ways to patch up
the split wire so I might limp along until new speakers or luck in
finding a new tweeter?)
Thanks again.
~Jacob