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Hi John, What width do the plywood panels need to be if the strips are above referenced distance apart?Nicholas
You need to calculate how much bow you want. Plus there is a limit you can expect to achieve. I used Formica in a stainless steel finish for my poly units. I would guess they are bowed about 8 inches out. You can do a hand sketch and use pi r squared and pi D formulas to calculate eventually the segment length of the curve you would need for x radius with the full center of the poly buried somewhere deep within the wall space and you calculate back. I know how but obviously cannot explain it here.
DIPOLE TREATMENTS........"no pain, no gain"Dave the URL suggested in your last post above was the best so far. Above is a Dipole wave depiction I lifted from site.
Looks very impressive - hope you manage to achieve your goals. Keep posting what you are hearing! I just received the AQD-1's about a week ago and am still experimenting on placement - nothing definite yet. I have found a couple of locations that were definite no-no's though It's nice seeing what somebody else is experiencing, even though I have LS-6'es which are quite different with regards to radiation patterns.How have you attached the panels to the wall? I'm trying to figure out some sort of stand to place them on, but I don't want to rely strictly on gravity keeping them in place - I have cats which will eventually get curious enough to topple them over. I'm looking for something that allows the panels to be moved out of the way when need be, as I do not have a dedicated room.
OK, so on to absorption, a couple "hangup" questionsFirst, the "white faced builder's board"......I get blank stares at the box and specialty yards, most guessing you imply "homosote" type boards. Any specific ideas ?Second, I mounted ROXUL at first reflection replacing Dave's new diffusion panels on their sides as shown. Less nasty resonance, and I was able to remove the diffusion rear and outboard of the Vs with NO detriment to the stage, so at the moment I consider these redundant and will next try absorption at the "ray" point of reflection on bow wall rear of Vs. This I'll follow with FULL length(ceiling to floor) corner / ceiling intersect triangles. Not sure of sizing for these cuts, but the available DUCTBOARD is in 4 X 10 ' sheets, so maximizing seems logical for initial cuts. I know Dave has mentioned "builder board" here, but might as well use the lighter Ductboard with this sizing. Dave, any arguments for 1" or 1 1/2" Ductboard ? How about the full length corner triangle cutout, is the sizing dependant at triangle base(at top) and length ?All suggestions welcome......."blow me down"
Anyone here ? I took a serious look at what the boys at Real Trap do for LF trapping. They use a type of plastic "reflective" sheet behind and between the fabric cover and the 705 rigid glass. Rumor has it this reflective surface or membrane can be duplicated with Kraft or builders type paper......the pink stuff as used under flooring. I'm assembling frames and would like to emulate real Traps build. Also, most "ductboard has a foil and fabric like face so this "fabric may or may not be reflective or absorptive already. And what about layering a couple or three ductboard sheets to get a 3-4" thickness. does the foil backing defeat this process, and if not, I assume (oh boy) the foil always faces the panel rear......HELLO ?