[MarvinTheMartian]

SkyCap:
www.magnepan.com/www/images/DWMwiring.pdf

You are looking at the first setup. Think directional flow "+" to "-".
Disconnect everything! and connect .....
= Amp Left Out + > Dwm Amp In Left +
= Dwm Amp In Left - > Dwm Amp In Right +
= Dwm Amp In Right - > Amp Left Out -
That's the 8 Ohm series connection from the Amp to the Dwm.

Same style for the DWM to the Mini's
= Dwm High Out Left + > Mini_1 In +
= Mini_1 In - > Mini_2 In +
= Mini_2 In - > Dwm High Out Left -

Or you could buy 4 channels of 4 Ohm capable amplification and follow the original diagram exactly ( times two : )

Shawn

[Skycaptain]

SkyCap:
You are missing one connection on your diagram, to complete the 8 Ohm circuit you also need to "serialize" the inputs to each DWM panel, similar to the "-" > "+" on your Mini pairs.

My other concern would be the Mini's placed side by side, the tweeter spacing may lead to horizontal treble comb filter interference. The Mini's might work better stacked on top of each other.

Your receiver has line level outputs, start saving up for a good quality used amp : )
Shawn

Your input is very interesting...very interesting indeed!
Thanks and I have revamped the diagram for one set LEFT Channel. Then I would repeat for the RIGHT channel.
Let me know if this is what you meant for wiring configuration. I'll consider the vertical stacking for the mini's.




Take care.
Skycaptain ovr & out

[bdp24]

You didn't ask me, but I'll tell you anyhow . The Mag-1 and Mag-2 should absolutely, incontrovertibly NOT be placed side-by-side. That will unquestionably created horizontal lobing, and comb-filter phase cancellation and frequency response problems. If you stack them vertically you will have created a nice line-source speaker, increasing the two panel's output without creating any of the aforementioned problems.

[MarvinTheMartian]

SkyCap: Bingo(ish) ...
The only ambiguity in your drawing is the final return path from mini_2 "-" to the dwm "-".
Without knowing the details of the DWM's internal high pass circuit, the safe bet would be to leave both of the DWM's  High Out Rights unconnected. and connect Mini_2 "-" > DWM  High Out Left "-".

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is.-- Yogi Berra

The more I think about it, the more I would run the final version by the Master.
Shawn

[Skycaptain]

Thanks bdp24 and Shawn for both your inputs. Very much appreciated guys.
I'm looking so forward to getting these bought and set-up. As of yet I have not located a dealer here in Vancouver, BC but may actually pop over the border to Seattle to purchase and bring them up. I will await Master Jedi Wendell to comment directly or via Steve. If all works out, I will post images and review of project.
Skycaptain ovr & out.

[MarvinTheMartian]

SkyCap:
I think "Yogi Berra" wins this round, "In practice it doesn't work."
The DWM has internal passive crossovers that are expecting a specific load, start connecting things in series or parallel and the anticipated load values are out the window.
The crossover points will be moved off the intended frequency.

I see a new (used) power amp in your future.
Shawn

[Skycaptain]

SkyCap:
I think "Yogi Berra" wins this round, "In practice it doesn't work."
The DWM has internal passive crossovers that are expecting a specific load, start connecting things in series or parallel and the anticipated load values are out the window.
The crossover points will be moved off the intended frequency.

I see a new (used) power amp in your future.
Shawn

Damn those Yankees!!! No doubt you seem quite knowledgeable on the topic Shawn, but as I started out on this quest, I will await an input from the factory guys. You never know they may come up with have a solution....like get an compatible amp!
Take care.
Skycaptain.. ovr & out

[berni]

The only thing that could help you, would be a use of some autoformers like
speltz. They rise the impendance to your desired value and they do it with only minor( in your case when using this amp) negative impact to the overall sound.

[Davey]

Autoformers are not without trade-offs.  They can "shift" impedance higher at higher frequencies, but they still present a really low impedance at lower frequencies.  This can cause issues with some amplifiers.  These are generally better suited for tube amplifiers and not solid-state.

Skycaptain,  You realize that if you series-connect the speakers your 100 wpc amplifier is now a 50 wpc amplifier?  That might still be enough however.

Dave.

[berni]

Autoformers are not without trade-offs.  They can "shift" impedance higher at higher frequencies, but they still present a really low impedance at lower frequencies.  This can cause issues with some amplifiers.  These are generally better suited for tube amplifiers and not solid-state.

Skycaptain,  You realize that if you series-connect the speakers your 100 wpc amplifier is now a 50 wpc amplifier?  That might still be enough however.

Dave.

Not what I heard ...
http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/zero_autoformer_e.html

[Davey]

That's just a subjective "review" by a reviewer who has no technical background and a basic misunderstanding of the supposed requirement for impedance matching.

I'm talking about objective concerns here.  Like possible significant DC currents in the autoformer when connected to certain solid-state amps.  This is a well known possible issue and Paul (rightly so) even mentions this on his website.  (Or at least he did years ago when I read it there.)

However, that's not to say they won't work fine with certain amplifier/speaker combinations.  Just saying that possible issues should be understood.

This thread is getting well off the "question for the factory topic." 

Cheers,

Dave.

[bdp24]

An Autoformer hooked up to a SS amp? As I understand it, it's raison d'etre is to bring the nominal impedance of a low-impedance speaker up to the higher-output area of a tube amp's power envelope. Speltz uses the example of Audio Research amps and Magneplanar speakers, but they're more commonly mated with OTL amps. Roger Modjeski points out that his MR-200 amp actually increases in output power as the load impedance drops, but his amp is the exception. Roger also bucks the common wisdom by stating that OTL's are a bad match with ESL speakers. 

[Skycaptain]

This thread is getting well off the "question for the factory topic." 

Cheers,

Dave.

Thanks for the inputs guys but I agree,with Davey that the comments although a result of my original inquirers would probably best be served on perhaps another related thread  .
I am awaiting some input from the factory on this and will most likely look into a amplifier to power the front mags separately. I checked out one of Speltz's own sites, the cost of the 2 autoformers could easily get me a nice NAD mini amp to power the front channels quite nicely.  I am now seriously considering a super MMG option or a pair of 1.7's…. much to the chagrin of keeping it a WAF happy enterprise. 
http://www.magnepan.com/model_MMG.
I have yet to decide on anything and it will depend on what information I get back from the factory.
consequently after checking out Speltz's site (http://www.zeroimpedance.com/) I may pick up a set of his 'Anti-cables'. Check it out!
Skycaptain… over & out.

[bdp24]

A pair of naked Autoformers is $540, and it's lead out wires can be ordered long enough to take the place of speaker cables. That makes it quite cost-effective in an appropriate system (a normal tube amp mated with a pair of Magneplanars).

[SteveFord]

1.7s are not a bad choice at all but you'll really be best off getting an amp that does 4 Ohm loads or else it could be crispy critters time.
Ask me how I know that one...

[Maritan]

Steve,

Now that you've let on that something "fun" happened, you have to fill us in on the details.

The 1.7 drops to a little less than 2 ohms at 20k per HomeTheaterHifi's review of the 1.7s. Yikes.

[SteveFord]

No fun, I'm afraid, just lots of agita.

Let's just say I've fallen in love with my wife all over again and leave it at that.
She's a good one.

To get back on track, good find on the link.  I'll add that to the on-line review section.
A stout amp is a must with these guys.  Smoking electronics really can stink up a room...

[bdp24]

1.7s are not a bad choice at all but you'll really be best off getting an amp that does 4 Ohm loads or else it could be crispy critters time.
Ask me how I know that one...

A high-current SS amp really is the way to go with Magnelanars. In the old days (the 70's), audiophiles were willing to sacrifice just about everything in order to get the grain-free transparency and sound-stage depth, et al, that only the tube amps of the day could provide. Now that there are reasonably-priced SS amps that possess grain-free transparency and imaging, that sacrifice is no longer necessary.

[Vangelis]

This topic has been posted before, but to my knowledge has never been cleared up or addressed. I have after market fuses on the way that are directional in their design.  I'm trying to find out where at the fuse holder the signal flow enters and where it exits?   I would like to know the direction of the signal for both the tweeter and mid range fuse holder. For reference, looking at my installed 3 .7i speakers, does the direction of the signal / path go Up (floor to ceiling) or down (ceiling to floor)? Any help with this topic would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Davey]

It has been addressed.  It's just that some folks refuse to believe the conclusion. 

Fuses are not directional......and even if they were it wouldn't make any difference in this case since it's an AC circuit.

Any other conclusion (or claim) is a non-sequitur.

Dave.