[sl_1800]

I have most of the parts necessary to start building my Super V's.  I'm going about it a little different than the normal plan, changing a few cosmetic details.  I will post more pics as I progress.  The first set of pics shows the front face for one speaker.  This face design hides the screws and mounting flange on the P Audio driver, which was a must for me.

[Outofthewoods]

Nice touch Steve.

Can't wait to see what aesthetic mods you've come up with.

Did you install magnets on the backside of the front panel for grille attachment?

Are you gluing the "sandwich" together?

I ended up flush mounting the V2 driver on a pair I recently built. I designed the grilles to attach to the screw heads via magnets.

Ruben

[sl_1800]

Ruben thanks.  You sure did a nice job on that flush mount, it looks very nice.

Can't wait to see what aesthetic mods you've come up with.

I have some ideas for the side panels and grills, just not sure yet where it will end up.

Did you install magnets on the backside of the front panel for grille attachment?

I have magnets for that purpose but they are not installed yet.  I will be making the grills from half inch plywood.

Are you gluing the "sandwich" together?

No it will be held by several screws from the backside but no glue.  If I every wanted the driver out it would be tuff with it glued together.

[ebag4]

Steve,
I have done this on past builds and considered it on my V1 build but in the end decided to build it per the plans (unusual for me). Best of luck with your build, I am certain you will love them!

Best,
Ed

[NeilT]

Very clean looking, Steve and Ruben.

Neil

[sl_1800]

More pics.  The P Audio part of the Super V is sitting on my sub, two GR OB Servo 12's, which is the same thing as the lower half of a Super V.  The P Audio driver is sandwiched between the two pieces of MDF so there are no screws holding it by its mounting ring as normal.  Foam gaskets on both sides of the driver will help to isolate any vibrations.  I'm also thinking about adding a rear brace from the top of the sub section to the magnet of the P Audio as a added measure in supporting that heavy driver.










 

[sl_1800]

A Super V trial with lots of wood clamps holding it together. 

[sl_1800]

This week Danny sent me a different capacitor to try in my Super V tweeter circuit.  The new cap is a Russian paper and oil type cap bypassed with a Sonicap Platinum.  The idea was to put it into the circuit of one speaker and compare the sound of the two speakers, one stock and one modified with the new caps.  To be honest I was having a hard time hearing any difference when switching between them due to the time involved to switch cabling to play the other speaker.

So I fixed up a relay switcher that I can control at my listening position.  The simple push of a button changes which cap is in the circuit.  Now I can hear the difference, it's more noticeable on some material than other.  The paper oil cap takes the edge off of some live recordings which were way to hot and irritating.  It also helps with  recordings with bad "zzzzz" on every vocals "s" sounds.  On some material I hear no difference at all.  Today I'm going to play a track of pink noise, it should be very noticeable there.

[Danny Richie]

I just found out yesterday that those caps I gave you to try were a dry rolled paper cap (not oil).

I may have to try some of them in mine pretty soon.

[corndog71]

Perhaps an ESA Clarity cap might be helpful in this circumstance.

[Danny Richie]

Perhaps an ESA Clarity cap might be helpful in this circumstance.

Those are about a half a step behind the Sonicap but along the same lines. That paper based Russian cap goes in a different direction, and maybe a direction that matches that tweeter well.