If you could upgrade your Cornet any way you like...

MaskdBagel · « **on:** 15 Dec 2010, 05:47 am »

OK, I'm about to build my second Cornet2. I was very, very happy the first time around, with the recommended Auricap upgrades and 12AX7LPS tubes. This time, I've saved up enough to do those upgrades again and about $75 worth of additional voodoo. So I ask you, DIY experts and experienced audiophiles: if you were in my situation, where would you put your $75? I'm thinking resistors in the signal path, but I'd love to hear your ideas on specifics, or other components to play with. What do you think?

Thanks for the input!

WGH · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 Dec 2010, 03:07 pm »

Unless you have a very revealing system then you might not hear anything different from a resistor upgrade.

Quote from: amandarae on 27 Aug 2006, 01:31 am

On the fourth week, I change all the stock resistors in the signal path with Rikens. I run it for about a week and then listened for improvement. IMO, there was none whatsoever.

A cap upgrade will cost more but replacing the Auricap at C208 with a Mundorf Silver/Oil 1uF bypassed with a Russian Teflon Capacitors FT-3 0.1uF 600V sourced from eBay. Everything is just better with this combo, it is what I use.

Quote from: amandarae on 27 Aug 2006, 01:31 am

"In the C208 position (output), the Hovlands sound much better than the Auricap and/or the two types of Jensens I tried. The Jensens were fine but seems to have a slight “chugging along” character. It does not give me the same impact in the bass region and brass instruments seems to be tamed a little bit. It has a sonic signature for sure but in my system, I did not like the outcome using these capacitors in the output. The Hovlands sound very nice on the C208 position. In my system, it has all the qualities that I was looking for. Despite of the accolades, the Hovlands are no match to the Mundorf SIO."

Wayne

MaskdBagel · « **Reply #2 on:** 15 Dec 2010, 05:22 pm »

Thanks for the input! Good to know about the resistors. I'll just make sure to be extra picky about matching, then (I was pretty particular the first time), and hopefully I'll be good.
Can you give me a little more detail on the Mundorf/Russian teflon setup you use? What's placed where on the board/in relation to each other?

WGH · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 Dec 2010, 08:31 pm »

I went whole hog and added 6 Russian FT-3's as bypass caps in a Lansing case. The big black Mundorf's at C208L and C208R are easy to spot. The big silver cans with clear heat shrink are the FT-3's. If you have any extra money put a pair of Sonicap Gen1 1uF at C200 & 206, Sonicap Platinum .1uf at C203, Sonicap Gen1 47nF at C202, and Sonicap Gen1 1nF at C204.

If you still want to do resistors then search for "PRP resistors" and "Vishay nudes". AC member tubesforever did a lot of experimenting.

Wayne

wdi · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 Dec 2010, 01:52 pm »

Has anyone compared any upgrades to the rca connections to the stock pcb mounts?

I went mostly stock and focused the budget on upgrades to the capacitors and tubes.

devo · « **Reply #5 on:** 23 Dec 2010, 01:44 am »

I upgrade to the gold RCAs in my first Coronet 2 and kept the stock PCB mounts in my second one for my son ---- not a noticeable difference to me

dangerbird · « **Reply #6 on:** 28 Dec 2010, 11:56 pm »

Hey Wayne,,I took your advice and I am following you build(thank you for the cap suggestions),,did you sit the Mundorfs on top of the resistors,or leave some space between them?.Thanks

WGH · « **Reply #7 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 01:32 am »

All the parts fit snugly in the case so nothing is flopping around. You don't want parts vibrating with the music.

Wayne

dangerbird · « **Reply #8 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 01:37 am »

Okay--thanks.

dangerbird · « **Reply #9 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 12:19 pm »

he,he,, I had nooooooooo idea that those bypass caps were that large,lol.Last night I did get most of the caps installed,,anyone have any ideas/thoughts on burning in the caps? I suppose that statement lets ya'll know which camp I'm in eh?BTW,, a sincere "Thank You" Wayne for taking the time to respond and post pic's of your Cornet in this thread,it is very helpful.

WGH · « **Reply #10 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 03:33 pm »

Sound like you are getting close to the smoke test. Good luck. Make sure you wrap the FT-3 caps in shrink wrap so nothing shorts out.

I have read the Mondorf's take hundreds of hours to break in, I don't know about that but the FT-3's do make the Cornet sound weird for a while. I used a Hagtech Frybaby (no longer available) and the iRIAA

You could use the IsoTek burn-in CD with the iRIAA. 6moons.com has a review: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/isotek/cd.html

or download and burn the Frybaby Burn-in Signal on a CD and set on repeat
http://www.hagtech.com/media/frybaby.mp3
You could probably eliminate the iRIAA if you can adjust the volume of your CD or computer to -60dB output so you don't overload the Cornet2's input.

More info is on the Hagtech site:
burn-in
frybaby

Wayne

wdi · « **Reply #11 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 05:05 pm »

Wayne, refresh your browser, the Frybaby is back. I love mine btw.

WGH · « **Reply #12 on:** 29 Dec 2010, 08:25 pm »

Hey - there that baby is, at the bottom of the page. The Frybaby is not on the top menu so I missed it. I sort of miss-typed, I have an early version of the FryKleaner kit ($39) which has been discontinued.

Wayne

dangerbird · « **Reply #13 on:** 30 Dec 2010, 01:46 pm »

Caps are in and no smoke,, now for the burn in,,I can say that I noticed an improvement in micro detail and a tad better "clarity".I think the "tone" has changed,(not a bad thing),but I'll wait for a couple hundred hours before judgement.I'll get some pic's up soon.

WGH · « **Reply #14 on:** 30 Dec 2010, 04:56 pm »

Good job dude! After burn-in get the Cornet2 warmed up and check the heater voltage (H+). The best tone and bass is when it's at 6.3V.

Wayne

Bill Epstein · « **Reply #15 on:** 31 Dec 2010, 02:44 am »

Never mind the Cornet, let's see better pix of the table. What are you hiding that keeps the base from racking?

WGH · « **Reply #16 on:** 31 Dec 2010, 03:26 am »

Quote from: Bill Epstein on 31 Dec 2010, 02:44 am

Never mind the Cornet, let's see better pix of the table. What are you hiding that keeps the base from racking?

There are more photos on the "Current Work" page of my website: http://www.wghwoodworking.com/current.html

The top and bottom of the turned mesquite legs have a 7" length of 5/8" diameter all-thread that is glued into a 3/4" x 6" deep hole using West Epoxy that is thickened with West 404 High-Density Filler. The leg assembly is bolted to the mortise and tenoned square frame under the table. The base and legs can be disassembled for moving. The assembled table is very solid and stable. The top finish is a custom mix of gloss and satin catalyzed varnish that will stand up to everyday use.

Wayne

dangerbird · « **Reply #17 on:** 4 Jan 2011, 12:57 am »

Oh Mama,, the caps are starting to burn in,,,there is detail that I've never heard before on some familar lp's,, and I'm not even thru yet,,I wish that I had the vocabulary to express my excitement,,I'm not gonna' name names,, but IMHO--this thing is running with some BIG DAWGS,, Oh Mama

dangerbird · « **Reply #18 on:** 8 Jan 2011, 01:17 pm »

A quick note,,I am experiencing the "roller coaster" ride as the caps burn it,,still sounds great though.The only thing I'm waiting on to finish the job is the Russian teflons,,at last glance they had "cleared" the Customs clearing house.BTW--are they(Russian) caps directional?

WGH · « **Reply #19 on:** 8 Jan 2011, 03:29 pm »

Quote from: dangerbird on 8 Jan 2011, 01:17 pm

BTW--are they(Russian) caps directional?

No. Once you install the FT-3's be prepared for another roller coaster ride. Glad you are liking the sound of your new Cornet2.

Wayne