[GentleBender]

I know I've seen adapters for running 100V. Here is one on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4.

[neobop]

Thanks GB,
I ordered a smaller one.  The table is 8 watt and that one is 500 watt. 

Just saw another vintage goodie:
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649235290-empire-top-model-4000-diii-cartridge/

$290 Canadian is $219 US. 
3mV
30cu
.75 - 1.25g

I'd get it myself but I'm a little backed up.  That would be nice on my Sonus arm. 
neo

[ACHiPo]

Thanks GB,
I ordered a smaller one.  The table is 8 watt and that one is 500 watt. 

Just saw another vintage goodie:
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649235290-empire-top-model-4000-diii-cartridge/

$290 Canadian is $219 US. 
3mV
30cu
.75 - 1.25g

I'd get it myself but I'm a little backed up.  That would be nice on my Sonus arm. 
neo

Neo,
You're part enabler and part private shopper!

AC

[GentleBender]

Neo,
You're part enabler and part private shopper!

AC

For sure! Now let's see if I have learned anything. That Empire would be better matched for a low to medium mass tonearm, right?

[neobop]

The Empire 4000 III is held in high regard.  Using a high cu cart on a heavy arm is controversial.  Usual wisdom is to shoot for a resonant frequency of 8 - 12Hz which means low mass arm for this cart.   Having a res. freq. lower than 8Hz can work out, depending on equipment and set up.  The arm must have high quality bearings w/low friction, and the set up must be relatively immune to acoustic and mechanical feedback. 

Peter Pritchard (ADC, Sonus) advocated a res. freq. of 6.5Hz.  Some of his designs were as high as 50 cu.  Shure and Stantering put a damping brush on the stylus assembly for heavy arm compatibility. 
I believe the 4000 weighs 7g. Using screws 2g, res. freq. estimate is 6.49Hz w/11g arm.  With a 7g arm - 7.26Hz.  If a med mass arm has fluid damping the amplitude of the resonance is lowered considerably.  If the arm bearings have too much friction, the cart will sound sluggish on a heavy arm.  Even w/high quality bearings, on a heavy arm you might hear anomalies, especially in the bass.  I wouldn't hesitate with a high quality med mass arm even w/o fluid damping.  With a high quality high mass arm YMMV, and res. freq. might be in the record warp region.

Hi Neo,

I've used the following cartridges: Grace 9E, Monster Cable Alpha 2, Monster Cable Sigma 1000, Fidelity Research FR1 Mk3 original and a Soundsmith FR1, Accuphase AC1 and an AC1 retipped by Soundsmith, Denon DL107, Denon 103 original and with UWE wood body, Empire 4000D mk3, Koetsu Black with vdh tip, AKG P7, Nagaoka MP50.

My favourite of the lot is the Empire 4000. It has all the detail of the moving coils carts with none of their agressiveness. Im looking forward to trying the Victor Z1.

Regards,

Pat

neo

[GentleBender]

I believe I have an Audioquest PT-6, 7 or 8. It is medium mass I believe. I don't know how to tell exactly which one. It does have fluid damping, if needed. How would the Empire/Audioquest combo work out theoretically?

[neobop]

GB,
I think your arm is on the low side of medium (10g?), but I'm not positive.   I think it will work.  I'm not sure about replacement styli.

My experience is limited here and I don't want to throw you a curve.  Are you a member of Karma?  They have a giant Empire thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/anyone-else-running-vintage-empire-carts.468129/

You could check with them.  Somebody could probably comment about the arm.
neo

[GentleBender]

GB,
I think your arm is on the low side of medium (10g?), but I'm not positive.   I think it will work.  I'm not sure about replacement styli.

My experience is limited here and I don't want to throw you a curve.  Are you a member of Karma?  They have a giant Empire thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/anyone-else-running-vintage-empire-carts.468129/

You could check with them.  Somebody could probably comment about the arm.
neo

Thanks for the link, I will scan through the 91 pages to see what I can find. I think this is a Jico replacement for the Empire 4000 III http://www.jico-stylus.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=1535.

[neobop]

GB,
Saw your post on the alien thread.  Something like this is more important right now, IMO:
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RDV

or $169 at KAB.  You supply the vacuum:
https://www.kabusa.com/ev1.htm

neo

[GentleBender]

What cleaning fluid do you recommend?

[neobop]

I've been using Nitty Gritty Pure 2 for years.  It's noticeably quieter than VPI fluid.   Now I use an enzyme cleaner first.  I think it's called Audio Intelligent One Step. 

I'm going to try Mobile Fidelity.  They have a Super Enzyme cleaner that's supposed to be well, super.  The other Mobile Fidelity formulas are supposed to be good.  I use their record sleeves.  It's important to lose the paper sleeve.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Nitty-Gritty-Pure-2-Pint?sc=2&category=1181

http://www.needledoctor.com/Mobile-Fidelity-Original-Masters-Sleeves-50-pk?sc=2&category=52838

http://www.soundstagedirect.com/super-record-wash-vinyl-lp-mfsl.shtml

Mobil Fidelity has another deep cleaning solution for really dirty used records.  I haven't used these so I can't comment.  The important thing is to get started.  It makes a tremendous difference. 
neo

[ACHiPo]

I use the Spin Clean solution (not sure if it has enzyme in it?), followed by diluted Pure II on the NittyGritty as a final rinse. 

I used to use what is now MoFi solution (can't remember what it used to be called), both the Power Cleaner and 1-step by itself and really liked it with the NG.  I just ordered a bottle of the MoFi solution since I'm almost out of Pure II.

[GentleBender]

GB,
If you can load the M97 at 62K/250pF it improves a whole lot.  Jico makes an SAS for it too, but I can't say I've heard it.  They say with it,  it's back to 47K and at a whole other level.

The Z1 w/E stylus sounds sweet and natural.  Maybe with a bit extra bass but basically flat.  With the SAS stylus it will go up against just about any MM ever made, although you might have a preference for a different sound.  This is fast, detailed and dynamic as hell. 

The AQ 8 is straight low/med mass arm?  Should be great match.  With SAS I track at 1.4g.  1.75 W/JVC stylus. 
I see the bid is up to $10.50 - don't bid too much if you go for it.  They still show up from time to time, but mostly in Japan.  These were not US models.
http://www.hifishark.com/search?q=Victor+z1+cartridge

neo

I'm assuming 65K is a combination of 47K and the 250pF. Below are the instructions for my phono stage. Please correct me if I am wrong.

[neobop]

No.  You have 2 different parameters here.  One is impedance/resistance and the other is capacitance.  47K is the only MM resistance option here.  In order to get 62K you would have to remove a set of resistors and replace them with 62K.  It looks as if you could do that, or have a tech install them.  If there is a resistance value you don't use, like maybe 1K, you could replace those with the 62K.  You could also replace them with 100K and use loading plugs to get any resistance you want.  Use a parallel resistance calculator to figure out net resistance.

The other is capacitance - that's the total value of preamp + cables + internal arm wire = capacitance load.  In this case (M97) you want to maintain at least 250pF, but not much more.  Depending, your wire/cables might be 125 - 150pF.  Combine that with 100pF on your preamp and you should be close.  Only thing is you cable capacitance is unknown.

The way it is suggests an SAS is the way to go.  It probably is anyway.  The M97 is said to be one of the most successful SAS couplings.  I think you should get the RCM first and get that out of the way. 
I know this stuff is confusing and I didn't explain much.  If you have questions don't hesitate to ask.  If you don't understand parallel resistance and capacitance, all this must seem like voodoo. 

[GentleBender]

I know this stuff is confusing and I didn't explain much.  If you have questions don't hesitate to ask.  If you don't understand parallel resistance and capacitance, all this must seem like voodoo. 

Are you suggesting this is not some form of voodoo?  I am slowly learning some of the principals involved, slowly. I've been itching to buy a RCM for quite some time and your suggestion just put it above all else. Once I have that, I will work on cartridge and the Phoenix Eagle and Roadrunner tachometer.

[ACHiPo]

I think you should get the RCM first and get that out of the way. 

GB,
Neo's advice is solid.

Pick up a NittyGritty or equivalent, some deep cleaning enzyme stuff, some Pure II or MoFi 1-step wash, MoFi sleeves, and get cleaning.   

[S Clark]

Once you have a vacuum cleaning machine, so many of the tics and pops go away.  The little KABUSA machine works very well using your vacuum... I used one for over a year before moving to one with vacuum built in.  For an extra $30 I recommend this one suggested by Neo.  It's nearly as small as the KABUSA unit and, being self contained, is more convenient.   http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RDV&gclid=CKmDp53QpskCFVQ2aQodstUMlg

[GentleBender]

The other is capacitance - that's the total value of preamp + cables + internal arm wire = capacitance load.  In this case (M97) you want to maintain at least 250pF, but not much more.  Depending, your wire/cables might be 125 - 150pF.  Combine that with 100pF on your preamp and you should be close.  Only thing is you cable capacitance is unknown.

The capacitance of my RCA cable to the amplifier is roughly 21 picofarads per 2 ft, which since I have 3ft makes 31.5pF. Does the output to the amplifier even count? I wouldn't think so. The Audioquest tonearm is connected by an unknown SME tonearm cable that connects to the phono stage in. Any idea of how to identify it, or is that not really necessary?

[neobop]

The capacitance of my RCA cable to the amplifier is roughly 21 picofarads per 2 ft, which since I have 3ft makes 31.5pF. Does the output to the amplifier even count? I wouldn't think so. The Audioquest tonearm is connected by an unknown SME tonearm cable that connects to the phono stage in. Any idea of how to identify it, or is that not really necessary?

The cable to the amp has nothing to do with this, but it's more likely 21pF/ft.  The capacitance the cart sees is the arm wire + arm cable + preamp.
Can't say for sure but an SME V cable, which is a VdH 501 is 155pF.  If yours is like that one (silver wire) then you should be fine with the 100pF switch.

It's also hard to estimate the arm internal wire.  KAB says the 1200 internal wire is only 10pF.  But this could go as high as 50, so between 10 and 50pF.   
You're still probably fine with 100pF.  You can determine what's best by listening.   If the capacitance is too low it will sound distant, rolled off - depressed in the treble region and loss of extreme high end.  If capacitance is too high it will sound too bright upper mids to treble, with even less extension. 
Check this out:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/load_the_magnets_e.html

You can see where 62K/250pF comes from.  Some years ago a member here, Felix came up with 62K.  BTW, I read a very positive review of the Budgie.
http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=vinyl&m=1122066

neo

[neobop]

Here's another one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262150184691?rmvSB=true

Lotta love for this one.  Not a whole lot of money so far.
neo