VMPS Larger

vikesfan · « **Reply #20 on:** 2 Mar 2012, 04:01 am »

Started the replacement process of old drivers (I know - it's been a long time). I need to find a terminal plate and will need to re-wire the 12" driver as the old wire was cracked and nearly broke in several spots. Connection was very loose as well. I've looked through Part Express but can't find a terminal plate that is the same size. Any suggestions on what wire to use internally? Going to go with the Mega Woofers me thinks...

Conradicles · « **Reply #21 on:** 3 Mar 2012, 08:08 pm »

I used this 12GA Belden wire from Blue Jeans Cable for my internal wiring:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

You could make a custom input terminal quite easy wiith these:
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=107

What size does the input terminal need to be?

vin69 · « **Reply #22 on:** 5 Mar 2012, 04:51 am »

Can I replace the Megawoofers in my larger sub with TC Sounds/OMG 12" & 15" woofers? Wondering if the cabinet will hold up or would it need additional bracing. I already have BBPR. Don't know how old my subs cabinet is as I bought it used & upgraded to Megawoofers but needed speaker gaskets to seal the gap in 15" woofer's opening.

vikesfan · « **Reply #23 on:** 18 Mar 2012, 01:28 am »

Quote from: vikesfan on 2 Mar 2012, 04:01 am

Started the replacement process of old drivers (I know - it's been a long time). I need to find a terminal plate and will need to re-wire the 12" driver as the old wire was cracked and nearly broke in several spots. Connection was very loose as well. I've looked through Part Express but can't find a terminal plate that is the same size. Any suggestions on what wire to use internally? Going to go with the Mega Woofers me thinks...

Took the PR out today. It had almost 3 feet of mortite rope on it. I'm not sure if that was original to the sub but it certainly wasn't letting things work properly I'm guessing...

vikesfan · « **Reply #24 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 01:30 am »

All 3 drivers arrived today and will certainly be an improvement over the originals in the tallboy larger. However, the 12" driver is considerably smaller than the cutout in the cabinet and both 15" drivers are larger. I think it will be easy to get the PR to fit but the active driver will require more surgery. Does anyone have tips on enlarging the current cutouts in the cabinet? I may build a new one with the proper dimensions as I have a sheet of 1" mdf just calling my name...

Brian Cheney · « **Reply #25 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 01:46 am »

If you have a router, you need two bits to enlarge the relief (outer cutout) the necessary 1/8" or so. The first is called an undercutting bit, which makes a groove about 1/4" under the top of the baffle. You then use a veneer trimming bit to trim away the overhang.

vikesfan · « **Reply #26 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 02:05 am »

Brian - thanks for the quick reply. I do have a router but am concerned about cutting the overhang the needed 5mm or so. That would drop the cabinet depth to about 4mm in order to flush mount the drivers. My thoughts would be to add wood supports behind the screws to give them something to grab but I'm worried about the cabinet flexing (or cracking) as it would be so thin where the drivers mount.

Brian Cheney · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 04:43 am »

It's OK to let the drivers protrude a little up over the baffle. Don't cut away depth from the baffle or you won't be able to support the motor structure.

doug s. · « **Reply #28 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 05:09 am »

i am still waiting to hear how you're gonna mount the 12" driver.

pics would be cool...

doug s.

DFaulds · « **Reply #29 on:** 20 Mar 2012, 11:04 am »

If those drivers are anything like the TC drivers I'm using then I would suggest something a bit more significant than screws to hold those bad boys. You might want to use bolts and T-nuts instead.

audiomagnate · « **Reply #30 on:** 18 May 2012, 07:59 pm »

I am proud new owner of a used Larger "low boy" in oak. The instructions on the bottom of the unit don't seem to have a lot to do with this unit. Is there an owner's manual available on line? My serial number is 2911157. It sounds absolutely fantastic as is, but I'd like to have an owner's manual to make sure I have everything optimized. I'd also like to know the date of manufacture.

Brian Cheney · « **Reply #31 on:** 18 May 2012, 08:11 pm »

There are setup instructions on this forum. There is no owner's manual, but everything you need is here.

Your speakers were manufactured in February 1999.

audiomagnate · « **Reply #32 on:** 22 May 2012, 06:30 pm »

Is it a "Larger" or a "New Larger"?

John Casler · « **Reply #33 on:** 22 May 2012, 07:23 pm »

Quote from: audiomagnate on 22 May 2012, 06:30 pm

Is it a "Larger" or a "New Larger"?

The VMPS LARGER Sub began life as a Low Frequency Musical Sub for those who wanted Low Bass, with the delicacy and harmonics of their mains. Early on, the Larger was in what we now call the "HIGH BOY" cabinet, and was most often mated with exceptionally musical speaker sets like the old Quads and early Magnepan speakers. It worked well with them since the large woofers produced the lowest frequencies, while the shorter throw reduced distortion and hang to allow for some incredible detail and harmonic overtones missed by most subs.

Later the sub cabinet was redesigned to what we call the Low Boy. The Low Boy was also named the "NEW LARGER"

So we often speak of the LARGER somewhat generically, but it officially was the High Boy, and the NEW LARGER is the Low Boy

audiomagnate · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 May 2012, 10:30 pm »

Does the "slot loaded" PR refer to the "slot" formed by the floor and the opening formed by the gap in the stand, or to something internal? It works very well with my Martin Logan Aerius i's and Cinema center. I'm into 3.1 stereo.

audiomagnate · « **Reply #35 on:** 5 Jun 2012, 04:17 pm »

I'm trying out using a second mono amp with an electronic crossover and a 31 band eq to power the Larger sub. Do I just parallel the 15" and the 12"?

Right now I'm using the two passive crossovers that came with the sub. I have one channel driving the 12" and the other powering the 15", which seems odd, but it seems to work. The 6 dB/8ve low pass filter (i.e. "big coil in series with the woofers) leaves a lot of lower mids in the sub, which I want to eliminate with the electronic crossover.

John Casler · « **Reply #36 on:** 5 Jun 2012, 05:28 pm »

Quote from: audiomagnate on 5 Jun 2012, 04:17 pm

I'm trying out using a second mono amp with an electronic crossover and a 31 band eq to power the Larger sub. Do I just parallel the 15" and the 12"?

Right now I'm using the two passive crossovers that came with the sub. I have one channel driving the 12" and the other powering the 15", which seems odd, but it seems to work. The 6 dB/8ve low pass filter (i.e. "big coil in series with the woofers) leaves a lot of lower mids in the sub, which I want to eliminate with the electronic crossover.

That is correct, just jumper the binding post in parallel.

audiomagnate · « **Reply #37 on:** 15 Jun 2012, 02:41 pm »

My Larger Sub sounds a whole lot smaller now. I've blown the 15" with an ill timed stylus drop and need a replacement.I've removed all of the drywall (?!) screws but this thing won't budge. Any recommendations?

John Casler · « **Reply #38 on:** 15 Jun 2012, 06:40 pm »

Quote from: audiomagnate on 15 Jun 2012, 02:41 pm

My Larger Sub sounds a whole lot smaller now. I've blown the 15" with an ill timed stylus drop and need a replacement.I've removed all of the drywall (?!) screws but this thing won't budge. Any recommendations?

A stylus drop will certainly create a sub event and it can often be catastrophic to a woofer.

Sorry to hear that.

The Drivers if placed at the factory and not by an end user generally have gasket tape to seal them from air leaks. If these have been in place for some time they can "set up" and be a devil to remove.

1) First suggestion is simply turn the sub over on its face (make sure and place a small pillow under the driver) and let it sit like that overnight. Gravity may loosen the driver and let it fall out to the pillow.

2) If this fails, find a larger screw (must be an oversized metal screw) that you can screw partially into just one of the screw holes. Screw it in tightly so that it bites the metal of the woofer, but only goes in like 1/4-1/8". Take a pair of pliers grab the screw and gently pull until the gasket seal breaks loose.

audiomagnate · « **Reply #39 on:** 15 Jun 2012, 06:54 pm »

Quote from: John Casler on 15 Jun 2012, 06:40 pm

A stylus drop will certainly create a sub event and it can often be catastrophic to a woofer.

Sorry to hear that.

The Drivers if placed at the factory and not by an end user generally have gasket tape to seal them from air leaks. If these have been in place for some time they can "set up" and be a devil to remove.

1) First suggestion is simply turn the sub over on its face (make sure and place a small pillow under the driver) and let it sit like that overnight. Gravity may loosen the driver and let it fall out to the pillow.

2) If this fails, find a larger screw (must be an oversized metal screw) that you can screw partially into just one of the screw holes. Screw it in tightly so that it bites the metal of the woofer, but only goes in like 1/4-1/8". Take a pair of pliers grab the screw and gently pull until the gasket seal breaks loose.

I did it cave man style: The 12 inch came out rather easily, so I found a nice big rock and reached in and pounded out the 15 from the back. What's the fastest cheapest way to get back up and running. My sub is from 99 and I'm pretty sure has the original drivers. The 15 is marked x3967 1056 9904. I'm not ready for a three driver upgrade, I just want to get back to what I had. BTW this accident happened only a day after I upgraded to an electronic crossover and biamping. I was driving the Larger in stereo with a 50 hz 12db/8ve crossover and a CV A-500 power amp. The 12 inch survived unscathed. I'm running my mains (JBL SVA2100) full range with a Nak PA-&AII, and both of them survived undamaged as well. I have filled the big hole with an old Rat Shack 15" that sounds horrible, so I have it turned down to almost zero.