[cujobob]

Earl's operation is very small and if the subs are priced too low, that's likely taking up too much time which prevents him from building out the more expensive speakers.  They offer value because of the setup expertise you get with them, otherwise they likely wouldn't exist.

I believe the subs were $500 for a long time...I never really paid too much attention to those.

[Bear]

sooo.....cabinets are now poly?  what does this kit look like?  How do the cabs fit together?  Is it still flat pack?

[dwr]

Yes Bear the cabinets are now poly, it looks just like a sheet of mdf but is a lot more expensive, it is also much stiffer than mdf, it also takes a finish much better than mdf, if you've ever tried to put a finish on mdf you will understand . I can't imagine the kit has changed at all in physical size or shape.

[jtwrace]

Is it still flat pack?

NO.  You finish the cabinet with filler, sand and paint or whatever you choose.  Assemble crossover and wire.

[dwr]

No kidding JTW, are you saying that the enclosure comes already assembled so you just have to finish it and build the crossover??

[DougSmith]

JTW I believe DougSmith here uses 4th order bandpass subs that he built but are modeled from Geddes subs. Check with him.

Mine use the same driver, but are quite different in design and are also tuned lower. I am currently driving them with 125W amps (into 8 ohms).  That seems to work fine.  I was planning to try bridging the amps someday to see how much difference that makes (that would be 500W into 8 ohms).

[jtwrace]

No kidding JTW, are you saying that the enclosure comes already assembled so you just have to finish it and build the crossover??

That's how it comes!

From Dr. Geddes:
The poly parts of the enclosure comes assembled, but not prepped or primed.  You have to prep the enclosure, paint, install the drivers and build the crossover

[jtwrace]

Mine use the same driver, but are quite different in design and are also tuned lower. I am currently driving them with 125W amps (into 8 ohms).  That seems to work fine.  I was planning to try bridging the amps someday to see how much difference that makes (that would be 500W into 8 ohms).

Can you share which driver?

[dwr]

Wow I did not know that. It really makes the kit version an attractive deal!!

[poseidonsvoice]

Can you share which driver?

It's the B&C 12TBX100. The same driver used in an Abbey, which is an 8 ohm loudspeaker.

Anand.

[jtwrace]

Mine use the same driver, but are quite different in design and are also tuned lower. I am currently driving them with 125W amps (into 8 ohms).  That seems to work fine.  I was planning to try bridging the amps someday to see how much difference that makes (that would be 500W into 8 ohms).

I"m thinking of maybe using a Class D for the two subs.  I have a case for me!  The question is do I go for power or a bit of power but a bit more quality?   

[DougSmith]

I am using an SDS-254 for the pair.  The sound quality is quite good.       

[jtwrace]

I am using an SDS-254 for the pair.  The sound quality is quite good.     

The driver is an 8 ohm driver. Right?

[cloudbaseracer]

Abbey Owners,

Are most of you guys using the Berhinger DCX 2496?  If so, why do you feel the need to use it if you have crossovers in your subs?  I am new to learning about these Abbey's and the multi-subwoofer configuration, so just want to understand the logic in all of it.

I would prefer to not use the DCX but I am not sure if that is an option?

Cheers,

James

[dwr]

Hi James, yes I use a 2496. I use it because I built my subs and the 3 I use with the Abbeys are all different and all passive so I need an amp and management system for them. I use an 18" Malstrom-X in a 7 cu/ft sealed enclosure and a 15" Dayton Titanic MK III in a 6.25 cu/ft sealed enclosure and finally a 12" peerless in a 3cu/ft ported enclosure. I use the dcx-2496 to set the crossover points, delay times, and phase setting for the 3 subs independently. I also have 2 15" Daytons in sono tubes with 18" passive radiators for LFE when listening to movies. All the subs are powered by 3 Behringer EP-4000 amps located in the room behind my system equipment. 

[Tyson]

Does Geddes specify if the subs have to be sealed, or can they be OB.  In my room I have had success with OB bass where sealed or ported bass was difficult.

[Wind Chaser]

Does anyone even make a stand alone OB sub?

[dwr]

Nope he doesn't specify any certain type of sub. His subs are 4th order bandpass designs I believe. His theory is one sub in a corner preferably the sub that goes the lowest in frequency, then one away from corners or walls, and at least one up off of the floor. He advocates random placement, and then measuring the room response below 200Hz and adjusting the placement of the subs to optimum measurement results. That is where the 2496 comes in nicely with its ability to add EQ if needed. 

[Tyson]

Nope he doesn't specify any certain type of sub. His subs are 4th order bandpass designs I believe. His theory is one sub in a corner preferably the sub that goes the lowest in frequency, then one away from corners or walls, and at least one up off of the floor. He advocates random placement, and then measuring the room response below 200Hz and adjusting the placement of the subs to optimum measurement results. That is where the 2496 comes in nicely with its ability to add EQ if needed. 

I wonder if a sealed sub in the corner for lowest response and OB subs spread elsewhere for best bass quality.

[dwr]

I see no reason why that arrangement wouldn't work. Before I had my subs finished I was using 2 lower priced 12" Velodyne HT subs with the 12" peerless and the bass wasn't bad at all, not what I have now mind you but not bad at all. Its all a matter of getting the room response good below 200Hz.