[pbrstreetgang]

Hi guys, is there a room reason or other reason people get the Nathan over the Abbey? It seems the only the $300 difference would lead to more Abbey purchases unless there is something Im missing

[poseidonsvoice]

Hi guys, is there a room reason or other reason people get the Nathan over the Abbey? It seems the only the $300 difference would lead to more Abbey purchases unless there is something Im missing

It's a $300 per speaker difference,or $600 speaker pair difference.

The Abbey is superior in all ways however. I've listened to both. It is larger in size and that is what you give up relative to the Nathans.

But make no mistake the larger GedLee loudspeakers are superior in smaller rooms than the smaller ones are. They are superior in maintaining directivity control. I asked this same question to Earl about 1 1/2 years ago.

Anand.

[lonewolfny42]

TomS ...

Well, I think that was about 3 years ago and the room at the Hyatt was the size of an elementary school gym ...

Tom....yes, it was 2008 RMAF...
Powered by 50W Mastersound Finals 845 SET monoblocks...I really liked those Kaiser's...
.....but....in 2009 in a smaller room....not as good as 2008.



Show comment...

Now....back to the Abbey's....

[joschmo]

Thanks for posting that about the prices as I made that mistake when first ordering my Abbeys (Doh!) which turned into Nathans.  My sentiment's about these speakers echo Turkey's, I heard the Abbeys (thanks Doug!) but it was in someone else house with their components but it was enough for me to get the Nathans, wish I got to hear them in all their Earlly glory (I wanted the Abbeys but it was a monetary decision) I also did not know that larger speakers being better in smaller rooms. I have also been looking for stands and the only ones I found to be aesthetically pleasing are the BOSE ones but don't know how good they are (I have white Nathan's and think they are quite beautiful but most to all stands do nothing for my eyes and I have spent far too much time looking for stands). i also have a Danley Sh 95 as a center channel  the Danleys I have heard are different then the Gedlee's,  they are down in Georgia and may be worth paying them a visit. These speakers have made my speaker journey come to a most pleasant stopping point.  I live in Ct a little too far from NC but best of luck with your search.

[Tyson]

IMO, the Gedlee speakers will NEVER be the bottleneck in your system.  If you feed them crappy sources and amps, they will sound OK, maybe even pretty good, because they are so well designed.  But, feed them a great source and couple them to a great amp and they sound phenomenal.  Of course, a sub or 3 is not just recommended, but absolutely necessary for best performance.

[cujobob]

I have the Abbeys... purchased them last summer and have been quite content with them.  In fact, in a lot of ways, they changed the hobby for me.  I'm getting the resolution, dynamics, soundstage, and imaging I expected I'd have to pay a lot more for...and I've just been using an inexpensive receiver recommended by Earl.  The Abbeys have clearly shown me that investing in loudspeakers is THE way to go from here on out.  I could easily see a lot of people on this forum being happier if they'd sell their expensive electronics, pick up a pair of Abbeys, and just be done with it all for a few years (until something clearly superior arrives).

You certainly don't NEED 3 subs, Earl just recommends three or more subs to ANY setup.  The Abbeys don't really require anything special, setup-wise, except you have to be able to fit speakers of that size in your setup.

Compared to some other nice high-end offerings I've heard or used in home, what the Abbeys do better are:

Coherency
Dynamics
Imaging
Resolution

I'll try to be more in depth when I'm not typing a post at near 2 a.m. after a long day.

[jtwrace]

It's a $300 per speaker difference,or $600 speaker pair difference.

The Abbey is superior in all ways however. I've listened to both. It is larger in size and that is what you give up relative to the Nathans.

But make no mistake the larger GedLee loudspeakers are superior in smaller rooms than the smaller ones are. They are superior in maintaining directivity control. I asked this same question to Earl about 1 1/2 years ago.

Anand.

Very interesting...

[gedlee]

Nice comments - thanks. 

As to my speakers ruining your "hobby", I take that as the highest compliment.  That because audio "equipment" never was my hobby - it has always been about the music to me.  I found that people simply were NOT listening to the music, they were "oogling" the equipment - I find the equipment incredibly boring!  Let's not mince words here - if the looks of any part of your system or the room are all that important, then its NOT about the music. Getting past the continual swaping out of equipment and just settling in to listen to "the recordings" (as someone most correctly pointed out) is such a major step in the right direction. There is no looking back once you reach this point.

[joschmo]

Yes lets not mince words, its all about the music, its all about the music, its all about the music, no one should ever make anything beautiful, ever, or even attempt to, because that's right its all about the music, its all about the music, its all about the music, incredibly ugly women are better at the SEX because its all about the sex, its ALL about the sex!

Please feel free to insert the gender of your choosing in the post.  Because it may or may not be all about the inserting   

[pbrstreetgang]

Anyone in Austin with Gedlees? If not then Texas? Very interested

[Wind Chaser]

Most loudspeakers have been designed to be facing out with little to no toe in. The GedLee loudspeakers are not like that...

Having trouble articulating my thoughts here, but I think you'll know what I mean.  When most speakers are toed in hard the soundstage loses width and the imaging becomes adversely affected, so I am in agreement with your opening statement.  I understand that a wave guide necessitates strong toe in, but how does that affect the width of soundstage compared to a regular speaker with very little toe in?

I think another good question is every system and design is a compromise of sorts.  What in your opinion are the trade offs with the GedLee / Geddes?

[jtwrace]

Having trouble articulating my thoughts here, but I think you'll know what I mean.  When most speakers are toed in hard the soundstage loses width and the imaging becomes adversely affected, so I am in agreement with your opening statement.  I understand that a wave guide necessitates strong toe in, but how does that affect the width of soundstage compared to a regular speaker with very little toe in?

I think another good question is every system and design is a compromise of sorts.  What in your opinion are the trade offs with the GedLee / Geddes?

On top of these questions I have another. 

So, I purchase from Dr. Geddes and get the Abbey's and get 'em all setup.  I take the measurements and adjust accordingly (to me).  Is Dr. Geddes OK with reviewing measurements?  What is the after sale service like?

[gedlee]

When most speakers are toed in hard the soundstage loses width and the imaging becomes adversely affected, so I am in agreement with your opening statement.  I understand that a wave guide necessitates strong toe in, but how does that affect the width of soundstage compared to a regular speaker with very little toe in?

I think another good question is every system and design is a compromise of sorts.  What in your opinion are the trade offs with the GedLee / Geddes?

CD waveguides do not "necessitates strong toe in" they allow it.  A toed in pair of loudspeakers will always have a wider "sweat-spot" than a directly pointed pair for reasons well described on my web site.  BUT, you cannot toe-in speakers that do not have CD because then the frequency response at the seating location is no longer satisfactory or stable at different seats.  Waveguides allow you to do something which all speakers would like to do, but most cannot.

What are the compromises?  Size and appearance.  Getting high directivity simply requires large surfaces and the complex shapes of these surfaces and the highly radiused corners does not allow for "classical" looking "boutique" enclosures.  You get great sound, but you have to live with the large size and their appearance and construction, because any change towards smaller more fashionable designs will necessitate a lowering of the sound quality.

[gedlee]

On top of these questions I have another. 

So, I purchase from Dr. Geddes and get the Abbey's and get 'em all setup.  I take the measurements and adjust accordingly (to me).  Is Dr. Geddes OK with reviewing measurements?  What is the after sale service like?

I am not sure what "adjust accordingly (to me)" means, or what it would mean for me to "review" those measurements.  If you buy a pair of speakers from me then each speakers is measured to insure that it works perfectly - no further measurements are required.  I, of course, don't believe in "room correction" above the modal region, so the speakers should be setup in your room unmodified from what they leave my shop as. IN the modal range, if you buy my subs, I will tell your what measurements to take, then I analyze them with my proprietary software and I send you the parameters for a DCX2496 to optimally setup the subs for your particular room.  If you choose to buy subs elsewhere then you need to do this setup yourself.  But above say 200 Hz. no change to the loudspeakers should ever be done as the direct field has been designed to be flat and should not be changed in any way.

Voicing the speakers is not something that I would ever condon so I guess you would be on your own for that.

[jtwrace]

I am not sure what "adjust accordingly (to me)" means, or what it would mean for me to "review" those measurements.  If you buy a pair of speakers from me then each speakers is measured to insure that it works perfectly - no further measurements are required.  I, of course, don't believe in "room correction" above the modal region, so the speakers should be setup in your room unmodified from what they leave my shop as. IN the modal range, if you buy my subs, I will tell your what measurements to take, then I analyze them with my proprietary software and I send you the parameters for a DCX2496 to optimally setup the subs for your particular room.  If you choose to buy subs elsewhere then you need to do this setup yourself.  But above say 200 Hz. no change to the loudspeakers should ever be done as the direct field has been designed to be flat and should not be changed in any way.

Voicing the speakers is not something that I would ever condon so I guess you would be on your own for that.

I'm speaking of setup and tweaking the active crossover.  That's it!  I don't use a DCX2496 but use something very similar the Ashly 3.24CL.  My DCX went bad after one year so I couldn't bring myself to purchase another.  I'm speaking of just dialing the Abbey's to the subs...I guess you answered my question though.   

[poseidonsvoice]

I'm speaking of setup and tweaking the active crossover.  That's it!  I don't use a DCX2496 but use something very similar the Ashly 3.24CL.  My DCX went bad after one year so I couldn't bring myself to purchase another.  I'm speaking of just dialing the Abbey's to the subs...I guess you answered my question though.   

For those of you who are rolling your own with subwoofers (quite a few GedLee owners actually including myself), this article written by our own John Reekie is a very nice summary on what tools one needs to optimize subwoofers in room.

Many newbies have done it, but it does require you to purchase some equipment for obvious reasons. I have sent measurements I have done on REW to Earl and he has given me some advice, but the advice will be limited because he may not know how to adjust your particular active crossover that YOU are using, he is familiar with his subs and the DCX 2496.

And...above 200Hz is above the Schroeder frequency and above most room modal issues so the GedLee speakers are dominant and of course shouldn't be messed with or modified. Below 200 Hz is a completely different story and that's where one needs to tweak with room placement of subs, crossover frequency, slope, phase, etc...

Anand.

[jtwrace]

I have done on REW to Earl and he has given me some advice, but the advice will be limited because he may not know how to adjust your particular active crossover that YOU are using, he is familiar with his subs and the DCX 2496.

Anand.

That's all I was asking.  Would Dr. Geddes look and offer some advice.  That's all! 

[gitarretyp]

I'm speaking of just dialing the Abbey's to the subs...I guess you answered my question though.   

A point that hasn't been made clear is that Earl does not encourage crossing over the mains; he runs them full range. Also, the subs are not crossed over in a traditional sense. In a multi-sub system, the crossover frequencies can be (usually are) different for each sub, the subs are all mono, and they are distributed throughout the room to average out modal variations.

[jtwrace]

A point that hasn't been made clear is that Earl does not encourage crossing over the mains; he runs them full range. Also, the subs are not crossed over in a traditional sense. In a multi-sub system, the crossover frequencies can be (usually are) different for each sub, the subs are all mono, and they are distributed throughout the room to average out modal variations.

Ahh.  I didn't know that.  How is placement of the subs decided?

[TomS]

Ahh.  I didn't know that.  How is placement of the subs decided?

http://mehlau.net/audio/multisub_geddes/