0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic. Read 68704 times.
It's easier to insert the parts in the board if you bend the leads to exactly the right length. A tool like this turns out to be extremely useful:You can buy this at various places on the web. Mouser carries a couple of these - part number 5166-801 is for 1/4 watt and 1/2 watt resistors while part number 5166-901 is for 1/2 watt and 1 watt parts. I find that the smaller one is fine for most of my work.Here are a few other sources:http://www.productiondevices.com/Speedy%20Bend.htmhttp://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=106884http://evilmadscience.com/partsmenu/68-bender---Gary
Great DIY thread Wu...as I was perusing the pixies, I had a similar thought as GBB...then I saw his post. Never saw that neat tool he mentioned, but you can accomplish the same results using a needle nose pliers...the tapering ends allow for differing lead bend length, simply measure the component against the space on the board, use the pliers to grip where you want to bend and you are done...takes more time than the tool shown, but just about everyone has a needle nose pliers in their toolbox.Nice job Wushu...
MATCHING LEDSA number of LEDs are used in this design. The goal is to have the voltage from one side of the LED banks match the voltage on the other. Salas recommends using 1.8v LEDs, but you'll notice that the Mouser LEDs in the BOM are a bit higher - around 1.95v. This is acceptable. The main thing is that the total voltage from the LED strings are matched on either side of the board.The Mouser LEDs are recommended because they are very closely matched, so no need to go order and sift through a 100 LEDs to match the voltages.
This is exactly what I do. I seem to have an 'eye' for how much I should bend so it falls in perfectly flat & flush with the board. Just remember that in areas of higher current where the resistor dissipation is more than say 1 watt, you should have the the resistor standing a little bit for better heat dissipation. Probably not really an issue with this build, and more with tube amp builds, etc... For the LED's the voltages should match on both sides of the bank, not necessarily be 5.4V DC (for 3 LED's each being 1.8V) or 9V DC (for 5 LED's). Got it, thanks. Anand.
I've started to populate my board with the resistors I have on hand. A couple questions...What is the Hot Rod version you referred to earlier in the thread? I suspect the answer to this question may shed some light on why I have two 47R resistors when it appears the board requires four.Also, as stated in the BOM I ordered four 68R resistors but I can't find a home for them on the board.
Wushuliu,Just so it's clear as to which resistors I'm referring to, see the last photo of your 4th reply in this thread; It's the four brown resistors located next to the 4700uf caps. The board is marked 47R x 2 but you're suggesting to use the 68R in their place? Thanks.
Page created in 0.065 seconds with 27 queries.