Okay, lets start wiring.
Positive to the woofer twisted on but not soldered yet.
Another important aspect of the solder is to seal the exposed Copper wire.
When we get to the negative wire we often need to catch the shunt leg of a component returning to ground. There is no real reason to cut little pieces of wire to make those jumpers. We can go from the driver straight back to the source with one piece of wire and just catch that inductor on the way with a little splice in between.
So I cut out a little piece where it will be twisted to the inductor. Just chop into it with the right sized stripper and pull a little in each direction to open up the area in the middle. If you need to open it up a little bigger then you can make two cuts with the stripper and use a sharp knife to slice out the piece in between. Just try not to scratch the Copper.
Don't forget to slide some heat shrink on before attaching the next end or you won't be able to get it on.
Now it is soldered on. Note the white heat shrink waiting for cooling so it can be slide down over it.
The continuous wire keeps a nice clean signal path. I like that much better than cut and paste of little pieces. It is faster and easier too.
The negative for the woofer is one continuos piece also. It catches that same point before heading on the source.
Now I can heat up all the heat shrink to seal everything up.
That looks nice and clean now.
And this network, as easy as it was to assemble, has more parts, and takes slightly longer to build than most of the other kits that I offer. Only the Super-V, and three way kits like the O-3, OB-5, OB-7, and OB-7 Plus are more complex.
So if you are looking at any of my A/V series kits, N1's, N1X, N2X, N3, N3S, or the V-1, then all of them are even easier than this one.