Crossover assembly 101

Captainhemo · « **Reply #160 on:** 24 Aug 2019, 09:38 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 22 Aug 2019, 04:39 pm

I’m about to replace my sonicap platinum by pass caps, on my x-overs with some MIFlex copper ones and I want to make sure I’m doing it correctly. I have 2 matched pairs, I' putting one match pair on the tweeter circuits and the other matched pair on the Mids, is this correct?

Yes, if you have 2 pairs, that's the way to go

jay

tubav · « **Reply #161 on:** 24 Aug 2019, 09:45 pm »

If the main tweeter cap is 1.5uf, what is best value for a bypass cap. Thinking of trying the Miflex copper. Thanks.

AKLegal · « **Reply #162 on:** 25 Aug 2019, 12:55 am »

Quote from: tubav on 24 Aug 2019, 09:45 pm

If the main tweeter cap is 1.5uf, what is best value for a bypass cap. Thinking of trying the Miflex copper. Thanks.

1.5uf is a pretty low value. You are probably better off just replacing the cap with a 1.5 uf MiFlex.

Tyson · « **Reply #163 on:** 25 Aug 2019, 04:06 am »

Bypass caps should never be larger than .1uf

Gearguy · « **Reply #164 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 03:27 am »

I hope this is the right place to request assistance. I test wired just the tweeter portion, but no joy when tested. Should the tweeter portion work without the woofer crossover components?

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

mboxler · « **Reply #165 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 02:34 pm »

Quote from: Gearguy on 24 Nov 2019, 03:27 am

I hope this is the right place to request assistance. I test wired just the tweeter portion, but no joy when tested. Should the tweeter portion work without the woofer crossover components?

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Yes it should work on it's own. Can you post the schematic? Looks like a series resistor, followed by a two pole high pass filter, followed by an L-pad. Can't figure out what looks like a capacitor in parallel with one of the L-pad resistors, though.

What do you mean by no joy?

Mike

Gearguy · « **Reply #166 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 02:56 pm »

Thanks Mike. No joy = it doesn't work! I suspect I did something wrong but haven't figured it out yet.

S Clark · « **Reply #167 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 03:01 pm »

The circuit looks continuous to the tweeter. Have you hooked the tweeter up straight to a source ( preferably with a cap in line for protection) and played a low volume signal to it? I'd check to make sure the driver is good.

mboxler · « **Reply #168 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 03:13 pm »

Quote from: Gearguy on 24 Nov 2019, 02:56 pm

Thanks Mike. No joy = it doesn't work! I suspect I did something wrong but haven't figured it out yet.

Bummer! Was hoping it just sounded bad. When I test a crossover, I use a resistor in place of the driver. I apply a sine wave (say 2000hz) at the input and measure the output. If zero, measure voltages across the other series components until I find the problem.

Mike

Gearguy · « **Reply #169 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 03:17 pm »

Yes, I did check that the tweeter is good. I will use test leads w/alligator clips and will try again to build this in test mode.

** updated 27 Nov. - Got the test leads and tried again. It worked correctly, so now I'll build it for real.

Thanks!

S Clark · « **Reply #170 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 03:45 pm »

OK, it looks like + resistor--cap----l-------resistor--------- tweeter
l l cap l l
coil resistor
l l
- -------------------------------------------- tweeter

It's a second order x-over with a bit of lift on the high end... I think. Your idea of building it with test leads is a good one.
I'd call Danny first thing Monday if you can't get it working.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #171 on:** 24 Nov 2019, 10:52 pm »

It looks correct.

Also, no need to add heat shrink on the components. That wire wiring is tinned already and won't oxidize. Use it everywhere you use a connecting wire.

birkbott · « **Reply #172 on:** 26 Nov 2019, 09:43 pm »

For the X-LS Encore I did my best to copy what was above, does this look ok?

birkbott · « **Reply #173 on:** 26 Nov 2019, 11:50 pm »

Also how do I order more of the solid core copper wire that you use?

mlundy57 · « **Reply #174 on:** 27 Nov 2019, 12:14 am »

Just call Danny

Danny Richie · « **Reply #175 on:** 27 Nov 2019, 12:19 am »

Quote from: birkbott on 26 Nov 2019, 09:43 pm

For the X-LS Encore I did my best to copy what was above, does this look ok?

It's not pretty, but it looks correct.

birkbott · « **Reply #176 on:** 27 Nov 2019, 11:19 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 27 Nov 2019, 12:19 am

It's not pretty, but it looks correct.

Story of my life! Thanks

birkbott · « **Reply #177 on:** 4 Dec 2019, 08:56 pm »

I have a follow up question:
Once I have everything secure to the board, I heard mention of using silicone to lock everything in place. Is that just regular silicone that you buy at the hardware store? Or is there something else that should be used?

And is is a good/bad idea to silicone the solder joints as well to reinforce them to the board? Or no?

Peter J · « **Reply #178 on:** 4 Dec 2019, 09:06 pm »

If you have it, hot glue is another way to go, but then I have no love for silicone caulk... another story. I wouldn't worry about the wiring too much, I'll sometimes use really small zip ties to secure wires.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #179 on:** 4 Dec 2019, 09:22 pm »

I just use a little Silicon under the inductors, but Hot glue works well too and dries much faster. So I have been using hot glue the most lately. And you can put it around the edges of everything after all is wired and done.