[Voncarlos]

Danny, do you think something like this could work for a double subwoofer? Would it need a piece to separate the two woofers?
The body is actually based on a double base by "Domenico Busan" although I used violin style tuning pegs instead of geared tuners. The grill cloth could actually be painted to show the continuation of the fingerboard, bridge and f-holes.

[mojave]

That is a cool idea. How about some ribbons in the handle for full range speakers?

[Danny Richie]

My experience with U shaped frames is that they are easily excited and a resonance is easily created. I wouldn't add more than 6" of depth to ether side and brace the crap out of it if you can.

That is a cool idea. How about some ribbons in the handle for full range speakers?

It will take a little more than sub bass and highs to make a speaker.

[jtwrace]

It will take a little more than sub bass and highs to make a speaker.

   ya think?

[Voncarlos]

My experience with U shaped frames is that they are easily excited and a resonance is easily created. I wouldn't add more than 6" of depth to ether side and brace the crap out of it if you can.

Hence, the reason they work so well in acoustic instruments, but bad idea for something that should be acoustically invisible. 
Okay, back to the drawing-board.

[ebag4]

I may be looking at this wrong but isn't that an "H" frame?  It appears that the baffle board is in the middle (front to back) of the instrument.

Best,
Ed

[TomS]

I may be looking at this wrong but isn't that an "H" frame?  It appears that the baffle board is in the middle (front to back) of the instrument.

Best,
Ed

Yes 'tis, but I think the point is the walls may need to be a little more stout and a shallower depth for that to work out.  A stiff brace in the center between upper and lower chambers would also help.

It is a really cool concept.  I'd love to see this one play out because we all know Voncarlos can actually do it 

[Danny Richie]

I thought it was in the end of it. It actually does look like the baffle goes down the center now that I see it again.

If it were only 6" deep on each side, had a dividing brace, was about 1.5" thick or maybe made from stacked layers of Birch ply, and lined with No Rez.... It could work.

[launche]

Well couldn't you just make a standard box to fit inside the double bass shelland  add a ribbon tweeter to the neck to make it full range? 

[ebag4]

It is a really cool concept.  I'd love to see this one play out because we all know Voncarlos can actually do it 

That's right! I would love to see Voncarlos tackle something like this .

Well couldn't you just make a standard box to fit inside the double bass shelland  add a ribbon tweeter to the neck to make it full range? 

I think the point is that you would never get the subs to play high enough or the ribbon tweeter to play low enough to make a viable speaker.

Best,
Ed

[launche]

I was talking about adding a mid-bass woofer in the upper cavity and the subwoofer in the lower cavity areas.

[persisting1]

This is a great idea.  I love how Voncarlos thinks outside the box. 

[TomS]

I was talking about adding a mid-bass woofer in the upper cavity and the subwoofer in the lower cavity areas.

Or maybe a musical bar w/notes and/or a clef as part of the neck with a mid and a tweet hanging off it.

[mojave]

It will take a little more than sub bass and highs to make a speaker.

I was thinking of the BG NEO 10 and the BG NEO 3. Adire Audio was removing the rear cup on the NEO3 for an open baffle application. Put the NEO 10 right at the bottom of the handle with the NEO 3 right above it.

You could have the tuning knobs control the parametric EQ on the sub amp. That way you really could tune it to your room. 

[Voncarlos]

I thought it was in the end of it. It actually does look like the baffle goes down the center now that I see it again.

If it were only 6" deep on each side, had a dividing brace, was about 1.5" thick or maybe made from stacked layers of Birch ply, and lined with No Rez.... It could work.

Here's another look that makes it a little easier to see whats going on. This is just a rough drawing. So, there is a baffle running down the center, .75 inches thick but I would like it to be more like 1.5 inches. My idea for the body was to use the "stacked birch" layers to build up the depth. Here it's .75 inches wide but again I would like it to be 1.5 inches. The stacked layers could then be veneered. Yes, I now realize that the whole thing would have to be "No-Rezed" on the inside.
The physics of it being made of curves would actually make it quite strong, but probably would not help to reduce resonance, and might excite it even more!

[Bill Baker]

Voncarlos, we all know you can do it and now many will be watching for it. We'll keep our eyes out for the start once you figure out all the details. Can't wait to see this come to reality.

[MarvinTheMartian]

Use the "stacked layers" construction to your advantage by changing the internal shape of each layer.
Create built in X-braces, vary the wall thickness to reduce panel resonances. Keep thinking outside the box you are on the right track.
Check out both the base and head sections of the Vandersteen 5a speakers.
If you truly want a uniform thickness it would probably be easier and stronger to build a form and bend /glue multiple layers of wood to your desired shape.
Shawn