[dmatt]

BB ply? Why not try "panzerholtz"  .... it's bullet proof!

http://www.delignit.de/canada/delignit/products/wood/delignitpanzerha.html

The turntable boys have already caught on to this stuff ... to bad mucho $$$

Wow.  What do you use to cut it?  Wood tools?

[rsa]

BB ply? Why not try "panzerholtz"  .... it's bullet proof!

http://www.delignit.de/canada/delignit/products/wood/delignitpanzerha.html

The turntable boys have already caught on to this stuff ... to bad mucho $$$

Seems awfully light at "1.35 - 1.4 g/m3"

[praedet]

So Danny, we evenly space the pieces with the bracing, add glue int the dowel holes, insert the dowels, glue between boards, then clamp the stack together?

Any recommendations on finishing these?  What do the Ds and Bs on the tops and bottoms mean?

[Danny Richie]

Any recommendations on finishing these?  What do the Ds and Bs on the tops and bottoms mean?

All the matching tops and bottoms have a letter on them. Each letter group is a matched pair in the way the grain ran. So you will have a pair of D's and a pair of B's. Someone else might have E's and F's....

There is also a check mark down one side. Line those up and they will all be facing the same way.

[praedet]

Danny,
Sorry to keep asking, one more question

The front baffles are .75" to tall.  Where would you recommend trimming?

[MarvinTheMartian]

panzerholtz milling = fresh carbide + CNC or tablesaw , router and drillpress
slower router speed / feed rates and lots of patience.

And now for something completely different ... styrofoam !
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=549976

The weight reduction advantage is mostly lost for DIY stationary home use,
but a manufacturer on the other hand gains on shipping costs.

For more info this site is a good place to start
http://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center

[Danny Richie]

Okay, I just spoke with the guy that cut these and he said that he did indeed make the baffle longer for several reasons.

One, is that there can be some variance in the tolerances of the layers and some of that is due to the glue used on them.

Plus, some may want a veneer on the edges and some may want to paint the whole front baffle and that will cause a variance in baffle height.

He said you need to assemble them and get them to their finished assembled height and then cut the baffles down to match.

[dmatt]

Well, I suppose it is better than having them too short. 

Danny, back to Praedet's original question, do you have a preference on trimming below the woofer or above the tweeter or does it matter?

Also, I noticed the roundover is not on the top and bottom of the baffle, just the sides.  Once the final height is determined, is there an accoustic advantage to finishing the top/bottom with a roundover to match the sides (as long as I have my router out anyway)?

He said you need to assemble them and get them to their finished assembled height and then cut the baffles down to match.

The front baffles are .75" to tall.  Where would you recommend trimming?

[Danny Richie]

Well, I suppose it is better than having them too short. 

Danny, back to Praedet's original question, do you have a preference on trimming below the woofer or above the tweeter or does it matter?

Also, I noticed the roundover is not on the top and bottom of the baffle, just the sides.  Once the final height is determined, is there an accoustic advantage to finishing the top/bottom with a roundover to match the sides (as long as I have my router out anyway)?

I was just looking at it, and it looks to me like a little trimming will be needed at each end.

If a person were to veneer the front baffle then the top and bottom couldn't also have a curve on it like the sides. You'd have to put a small veneer piece on the edges at the top and bottom.

If you are painting the front baffle then you can put a radius on the top and bottom of the front baffle, and I guess you could also put a radius on the top and bottom of the stacks if you want.

A radius on the top or bottom edge will have very little effect on the sound.

[praedet]

So, the front baffles being smaller than the proscribed 14" is ok?  I just didn't know if the N2Xs needed to be the roughly 14" tall the plans call for...

[dmatt]

So, the front baffles being smaller than the proscribed 14" is ok?  I just didn't know if the N2Xs needed to be the roughly 14" tall the plans call for...

Good question.

I am assuming that since the direction is to take a little off the top and bottom of the front baffle, that the actual interior volume of the cabinet (with twelve 24mm thick sides) is still to spec for the N2X design.  If the assumption was based on a side thickness of 1 inch, we lost maybe 6% - 7% of volume (within tolerances, I suppose?)

[Danny Richie]

Less surface area around the drivers is a good thing. It was bigger to start with to give people room to add grills.

I doubt anyone will want to put grills on these beauties.

The internal volume is still .5 cubic feet.

I may have misunderstood on the wood thickness as it is 1" or so think in the other direction (wall thickness, not wood thickness).

[dmatt]

Less surface area around the drivers is a good thing. It was bigger to start with to give people room to add grills.

No grills for me (Kind of like putting sunglasses on the Mona Lisa).

The internal volume is still .5 cubic feet.

Good to know.  Thanks!

[praedet]

Less surface area around the drivers is a good thing. It was bigger to start with to give people room to add grills.

I doubt anyone will want to put grills on these beauties.

The internal volume is still .5 cubic feet.

I may have misunderstood on the wood thickness as it is 1" or so think in the other direction (wall thickness, not wood thickness).

Thanks for the continuing help Danny!

[Will2]

Where would you mount the speaker binding posts? Bottom of the speaker, towards the rear?

Here's a good visual of what could be done

[praedet]

Since there are possibly 9 of us w/ these cabinets, should I start a new "construction" thread where we can talk about construction, assembling, and finishing techniques?

I am still trying to decide if I want to to satin black baffles, veneer on top, and/or stain vs. clear on the sides...

[Danny Richie]

Since there are possibly 9 of us w/ these cabinets, should I start a new "construction" thread where we can talk about construction, assembling, and finishing techniques?

I am still trying to decide if I want to to satin black baffles, veneer on top, and/or stain vs. clear on the sides...

That would be a great idea.

[praedet]

^^^Well then, go here

[Danny Richie]

I still have some of these stacked Baltic Birch N2X cabinets, and they need ne homes.