DIY Dodd Buffer

cheap-Jack · « **Reply #1200 on:** 18 Jan 2013, 02:43 pm »

Hi.

Quote from: HAL on 18 Jan 2013, 02:32 pm

The new Dodd battery preamp that Danny is describing has variable voltage gain, it is not a buffer.

Gary's battery powered tube buffer kit was $300.

That's makes more sense to me. How about I sell you a buffer kit as described in my above post for $100?

I still make some good money per kit.

c-J

HAL · « **Reply #1201 on:** 18 Jan 2013, 03:11 pm »

No thanks. I have my Dodd Tube buffer with a 6H30P-DR and Sonicap Platinum caps and very happy with it!

usp1 · « **Reply #1202 on:** 18 Jan 2013, 03:28 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 18 Jan 2013, 03:11 pm

No thanks. I have my Dodd Tube buffer with a 6H30P-DR and Sonicap Platinum caps and very happy with it!

Add a Mundorf/Silver Oil Cap and that should take it up a a further notch. I had Gary upgrade my caps and the results are very nice indeed.

rollo · « **Reply #1203 on:** 18 Jan 2013, 05:26 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 1 Jan 2013, 05:18 pm

The buffer is no longer Cheap & Cheerful though. I see on the site it's $1595 and $2500 for the pre.

There is so much stuff out there for that kind of money. He seems to still offer some DIY stuff but it requires a chassis. It adds up quick! Don't forget you still need a battery & charger.

Maybe I could add some input as we rep Dodd and offer in home demo in the NYC area. The website requires an update. Very confusing. The 6H30 shown is not a buffer but a linestage. No longer in the cheap and cheerfull catergory.
Hope this helps.

charles

Letitroll98 · « **Reply #1204 on:** 30 Jan 2013, 04:36 pm »

For those of you who have enjoyed Gary's products, please read this thread, http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113679.msg1184264;topicseen#new

Whatever you can do.

juanitox · « **Reply #1205 on:** 8 Feb 2013, 04:21 pm »

received my Dod inline buffer and put it after a Warpspeed volume control , works fine even if i loose some extreme Bass . the 6N6 sounds different than the EH6H30 more refined and relaxed. i use it after a variable regulated power supply not hum or noise to declare on my 102db speaker.

is the 12V is the max for power suplly or can i go higher? any max value?

cheers..

TrungT · « **Reply #1206 on:** 8 Feb 2013, 04:49 pm »

If I remember correctly, you can push up to 14V, but no improvement to the sound though.

Plund · « **Reply #1207 on:** 10 Feb 2013, 08:13 pm »

Several days ago I ordered the Basic #1 DIY buffer (most basic) kit from Gary. I was going to incorporate the buffer into the same box with a T-amp, but instead decided to keep the buffer "stand-alone" to provide more flexibility. I will use the buffer first with my Pioneer 912, feeding some Mark Audio 7.3 based Frugal Horn 3's...fresh out of the birthing room.

I read about the 6h30 tube being prefered by many folks, and I may well start with this one, but what other (< $100) tubes are some of you guys enjoying in your buffers and why?

Thanks in advance for your input!
Pete

rollo · « **Reply #1208 on:** 11 Feb 2013, 04:32 pm »

Any 6DJ8 will do. For 6H30 the DR is expensive. The Electro Harminox gold pin 6H30 is very good, better than Sovtek IMO. Then again system synergy will decide what tube for you. I like the NOS Tele 6DJ8 myself or the DR, but that's me.

charles

Plund · « **Reply #1209 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 05:20 am »

The USPS delivered the $150 buffer kit this afternoon, complete with a 6H6N tube. Thanks for the very quick delivery Gary!

If looking through some of the earlier posted build pics doesn't answer my question regarding grounding/return, I may give you a call. Thanks again for this kit!

Pete

TrungT · « **Reply #1210 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 05:26 am »

I used the chassis for the main ground, Negative in, grounded it to chassis.
Everything else grounded to chassis.

Plund · « **Reply #1211 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 03:11 pm »

Thanks TrungT! So if I understand correctly, you connected the battery (-) to the chassis and the shield/sleeve of the RCA connector inputs/outputs also connected to the chassis?

Pete

TrungT · « **Reply #1212 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 04:00 pm »

HAL · « **Reply #1213 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 04:10 pm »

Another way to use the same idea is to create a star ground. Bring all input, output and circuit grounds to one point on the chassis. It does mean that all the input and output RCA's need to be isolated from the chassis like the Cardas RCA's with the plastic isolation washers.

Plund · « **Reply #1214 on:** 16 Feb 2013, 04:43 pm »

TrungT and Hal Thanks! Me thinks I will use a star ground inside the metal case I plan to use...should work well on this old winchester hard-drive case I plan to re-purpose.

Pete

jk@home · « **Reply #1215 on:** 17 Feb 2013, 09:50 pm »

The way I grounded mine was a little different. I used one of those plastic wire terminal blocks to connect the positive and negative 6/12 volt signals (bottom RH side in pic). Then ran one negative wire from there over to a "star" copper bus behind the audio section on the other side of the box (top LH side of pic). Also grounded the chassis and all audio grounds to the copper buss, and made sure all chassis panels were grounded together. Used those Cardas RCAs referred to above, to connect the buss to, as shown on Gary's site.

underdawg · « **Reply #1216 on:** 17 Feb 2013, 11:49 pm »

nice utilization of butcher block

jk@home · « **Reply #1217 on:** 18 Feb 2013, 02:39 am »

Our local Bed Bath and Beyond stores sells nice heavy duty 16" x 18" x 2" butcher block cutting boards. I add spikes to them to use under my speakers, amps, etc. Makes everything on the floor vacuum cleaner proof.

Plund · « **Reply #1218 on:** 18 Feb 2013, 05:17 am »

Hey JK, That's a clean build you have there. Very nice looking.

corndog71 · « **Reply #1219 on:** 18 Feb 2013, 05:17 pm »

Where did you get the coupler for the volume control?