Newbie, looking at N3 or N2X

monkeypimp · « **Reply #20 on:** 19 Mar 2010, 12:26 pm »

Well I guess I am officially going to build the N2X's....ordered the enclosures yesterday. Getting them done in Zebrawood with Matching stands.

Now I just have to wait about 8 weeks to get them.

chip · « **Reply #21 on:** 19 Mar 2010, 02:54 pm »

Awesome - can't wait to see them when they are done.

dvenardos · « **Reply #22 on:** 19 Mar 2010, 03:34 pm »

Don't forget to post pictures and your impressions.

monkeypimp · « **Reply #23 on:** 19 Mar 2010, 04:59 pm »

Quote from: dvenardos on 19 Mar 2010, 03:34 pm

Don't forget to post pictures and your impressions.

Nope....

I will absolutely be posting pics all through the process....Most likely to find out what the heck I need to do.

monkeypimp · « **Reply #24 on:** 20 Mar 2010, 04:23 am »

So How hard is it to put the Crossovers together? I am not really afraid of soldering and have a nice solder station. But is it technically hard? Other than the crossover it is pretty much plug and play correct?

monkeypimp · « **Reply #25 on:** 20 Mar 2010, 04:28 am »

Another quick question would be on the upgrades....What is the "difference" in the vampire versus the cardas binding posts? Is one "better" than the other? If I upgrade to either of them is the back of the speaker done differently?

In the enclosure schematics I noticed there is two ways to do the back binding posts. One with a Binding post cup or one with solid binding posts....Which of the binding post options use which schematic?

Ron · « **Reply #26 on:** 20 Mar 2010, 12:09 pm »

Monkeypimp,

Attached are some pictures of the crossovers I finished yesterday for a pair of Neo 2X's that I am presently building. The parts are mounted on a 7" L x 5" W x 1/4" thick piece of MDF. Also, 1/4" thick hard temper masonite works well too. Thought the pictures might be helpful. Suggest that you just take your time and watch what you are doing when soldering. If so, you should do just fine. If you have any questions, I will be glad to help you.

Ron

jdbrian · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 Mar 2010, 10:58 pm »

Hi Ron

Those crossover boards look great! I have an OB7 kit on the way and have been trying to figure out how to do the xovers. I have some 1/4" phenolic that I could use. Another option that I have used in the past is a method developed by George Short of North Creek Acoustics. You use pegboard( the 1/4" thick stuff) and it is already drilled full of holes for tye wraps and terminal strips etc. All wires and components are terminated in Amphenol ring type crimp on connectors. You use brass 3/16" hardware to connect everything together using the peg board holes to mount a 3/16 bolt where you need a terminal. This allows you to easily make changes. I used this system in my Newform 645's when I upgraded the crossover.
With the OB7's I may do this at first but will probably solder everything later.

Brian

monkeypimp · « **Reply #28 on:** 21 Mar 2010, 12:20 am »

Thanks Ron... I will likely use these pictures and will take you up on the offer for some help when the time comes to put this stuff together.

Now can anyone help me answer the binding post questions? I want to make sure that the enclosures I ordered are done correctly for the posts I order.

thanks everyone!!

chip · « **Reply #29 on:** 21 Mar 2010, 04:40 am »

Quote from: monkeypimp on 20 Mar 2010, 04:28 am

In the enclosure schematics I noticed there is two ways to do the back binding posts. One with a Binding post cup or one with solid binding posts....Which of the binding post options use which schematic?

The binding post cup is for if you use the stock GR's pictured on the main page with all the parts.
Otherwise the other way would be for either the caradas or vampire posts. I don't know how much of a difference there would be between the binding posts.

monkeypimp · « **Reply #30 on:** 21 Mar 2010, 01:56 pm »

Quote from: chip on 21 Mar 2010, 04:40 am

The binding post cup is for if you use the stock GR's pictured on the main page with all the parts.
Otherwise the other way would be for either the caradas or vampire posts. I don't know how much of a difference there would be between the binding posts.

Thanks!!!

So if you are going to do this upgrade you have to do it right off the bat.

Anyone care to tell me if and why I should upgrade to either the Vampire or Cardas posts? I have no problem doing these but only willing to spend the money if it has a real reason to do so...it if it just aesthetics then I will stick with stock.

Ron · « **Reply #31 on:** 21 Mar 2010, 03:05 pm »

I normally use the Vampire input terminals because I like the built quality and they look aesthetically nice. As far as improving the sounding quality, I doubt if there is any audible difference between the Vampire input terminals and the stock input cup. It's just a matter of individual preference.

monkeypimp · « **Reply #32 on:** 21 Mar 2010, 11:40 pm »

Thanks Ron for the info!

If they don't make a sound difference then I guess I will stick with the stock ones as I would prefer to have them inset in the cup.

flapjack · « **Reply #33 on:** 22 Mar 2010, 01:34 am »

Yo Jay who is building your enclosures?

They are being made out of Zebrawood? Never heard of it...

dvenardos · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 Mar 2010, 02:11 am »

I like the standard GR binding posts just fine.

monkeypimp · « **Reply #35 on:** 22 Mar 2010, 03:12 am »

Quote from: flapjack on 22 Mar 2010, 01:34 am

Yo Jay who is building your enclosures?

They are being made out of Zebrawood? Never heard of it...

I am having them made by John at diyspeakercabinets.com. Here are some shots of zebrawood. Make sure to scroll down and check out some finished tables.
http://www.advantagelumber.com/zebrawood.htm

flapjack · « **Reply #36 on:** 22 Mar 2010, 03:23 am »

Quote from: monkeypimp on 22 Mar 2010, 03:12 am

I am having them made by John at diyspeakercabinets.com. Here are some shots of zebrawood. Make sure to scroll down and check out some finished tables.
http://www.advantagelumber.com/zebrawood.htm

Those look sweet. Post lots of pictures please.

chip · « **Reply #37 on:** 24 Mar 2010, 07:07 pm »

Here is a shot of zebra wood - http://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php4?p=497436&postcount=15

monkeypimp · « **Reply #38 on:** 1 Apr 2010, 11:47 pm »

Quote from: Ron on 20 Mar 2010, 12:09 pm

Monkeypimp,

Attached are some pictures of the crossovers I finished yesterday for a pair of Neo 2X's that I am presently building. The parts are mounted on a 7" L x 5" W x 1/4" thick piece of MDF. Also, 1/4" thick hard temper masonite works well too. Thought the pictures might be helpful. Suggest that you just take your time and watch what you are doing when soldering. If so, you should do just fine. If you have any questions, I will be glad to help you.

Ron

Ron are the little black caps that are on the sonicaps the bypasses?

Just trying to make sure I understand the schematics I got with the N2X kits that showed up today

Ron · « **Reply #39 on:** 2 Apr 2010, 01:33 am »

The small black capacitors on top of the larger white Gen. 1 Sonicap capacitors are the .1 mf Platinum bypass caps. Also, the shunt Gen. 1 Sonicap capacitor in the woofer circuit has a .1 mf Gen. 2 bypass cap. The Platinum bypass caps in the tweeter circuit make the most noticeable improvement.