[wushuliu]

Power supply Caps.

The white stripe = Negative So do not have the white stripe facing the '+' on the PCB.

If you are using the Jim's Audio Ebay PCB, the white stripe on his pcb = negative












well for all intents and purposes the build is done. All that's left is wiring the input as you see fit and using the enclosure of your choice.
















Battery Power

There are many ways to configure batteries for the B1.

For some overview on wiring batteries in series or parallel.

http://www.zbattery.com/Connecting-Batteries-in-Series-or-Parallel

Here's one way using 9v batteries.

2 9v in series for a total of 18v.





Note the wiring of positive (red) to negative (black) from one 9v to the next
to make the necessary 18v.


With batteries you'll certainly want a switch. So wire the positive lead from the 9v to the
switch. And then from the switch to the '+' positive on the pcb. The negative black
lead from the 2nd 9v is then wired to the negative on the pcb.

Since I am not using batteries or a switch in my build, here's a mockup of the wiring.



 

[wushuliu]

reserved

[Mariusz]

Looking good sir. 


What are the basic spects of Nelson Pass B-1 buffer?

For those curious minds. 

.......and, is it possible to implement battery power supply into this DIY project?
If so, how can one go about it?


Cheers
Mariusz

[peranders]

For data of the design, please go to Nelson Pass' website.

This design consumes rather little power so it's quite possible to use batteries.

[sondale]

Looking good sir. 


What are the basic spects of Nelson Pass B-1 buffer?

For those curious minds. 

.......and, is it possible to implement battery power supply into this DIY project?
If so, how can one go about it?


Cheers
Mariusz

Mariusz,

I use 3 SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries each of 6volts and about 7ah (Amp Hours)and connect them in series, they do tend to last - especially if you turn them off when not using!

I keep two sets so that when one is exhausted I plug the charged ones in and re-charge the tired ones - I normally charge them overnight so 3 evenings before they can be re-used.

I also use batteries (2 SLAs for the LSA) using the same method.

Alan

[Mariusz]

Mariusz,

I use 3 SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries each of 6volts and about 7ah (Amp Hours)and connect them in series, they do tend to last - especially if you turn them off when not using!

I keep two sets so that when one is exhausted I plug the charged ones in and re-charge the tired ones - I normally charge them overnight so 3 evenings before they can be re-used.

I also use batteries (2 SLAs for the LSA) using the same method.

Alan

Thanks Alan
and was the difference noticeable?
Did you had a chance to compare?


Mariusz

[wushuliu]

Looking good sir. 


What are the basic spects of Nelson Pass B-1 buffer?

For those curious minds. 

.......and, is it possible to implement battery power supply into this DIY project?
If so, how can one go about it?


Cheers
Mariusz

I have some battery holders that I used for my Hagerman Bugle. I can swap out the power jack and show the battery holder wiring for those who want to try that. I'll post pics later tonight.

[sondale]

Thanks Alan
and was the difference noticeable?
Did you had a chance to compare?


Mariusz

Mariusz

I had used a wallwart psu and then a small linear psu, after I changed to batteries I never went back - so I cannot say that it sounded better only that I felt happier with the sound.

Alan

[Nick77]

I have a question about adding a second set of outs to the B1 for a sub. Since the B1 is an impedance matcher will an extra set of out mess things up?

[sondale]

Some photos of my battery setup.

[Mariusz]

What is the 2nd BPS for?
Cool setup. 

Mariusz

[jtwrace]

It may be one battery setup for the PS and one for the remote.  Maybe?

[avionic]

What is the 2nd BPS for?
Cool setup. 

Mariusz

Lightspeed Attentuator

[Mariusz]

Looks like it. 
Very nice work. 

Mariusz

[avionic]

I soldered up one of the Chinese versions ( Jim's Audio)last night.
 Trying to upload a pic, but my camera just froze up    Got it to load

[Mariusz]

I have some battery holders that I used for my Hagerman Bugle. I can swap out the power jack and show the battery holder wiring for those who want to try that. I'll post pics later tonight.

Awesome.
Surely there must be at least few fellow members speculating about this option.
Having owned (still using) few components with BPS, I can see why someone would like to explore this option or even implementing it into basic design.


That is probably what I like about this project.

- you can start with basic design
- refine it as you get better and more comfortable with DIY essentials
- spend as much (or as little) as you like/can afford



Mariusz

       
 

[walkern]

I have a question about adding a second set of outs to the B1 for a sub. Since the B1 is an impedance matcher will an extra set of out mess things up?

Someone asked Nelson Pass this question at the DIY forum and his reply seemed to indicate that all you'd need to do is connect the second set of outputs parallel with the first, and you'd be good to go.  I'm intending to do this myself, (although it may be a little while... I haven't even stuffed my board yet) so I'll let you know if it works.

Neil

[earplay]

Mariusz

I had used a wallwart psu and then a small linear psu, after I changed to batteries I never went back - so I cannot say that it sounded better only that I felt happier with the sound.

Alan

Rarely do I have an opportunity to contribute, but this is one of them. Others have probably read this from me, but here goes.

I had a Trends amp back when and I tried it with a SLAB supply. It made the sound smoother. Then I tried it with the old wall wart, but with a cap across the input lines. It made the sound more dynamic, but just as smooth as the SLABs.

My 3 cents (devalued dollar).

[walkern]

Rarely do I have an opportunity to contribute, but this is one of them. Others have probably read this from me, but here goes.

I had a Trends amp back when and I tried it with a SLAB supply. It made the sound smoother. Then I tried it with the old wall wart, but with a cap across the input lines. It made the sound more dynamic, but just as smooth as the SLABs.

My 3 cents (devalued dollar).

I tried the battery option with a Trends as well, and found I liked it better than the wall wart... but never tried the cap across the input lines of the wall wart.  What value cap did you find worked best?

Neil

Oh, and hey Avionic... thanks for posting your photo of your Jims Audio board.  I've got one, and am about to get busy populating it.

[earplay]

I tried the battery option with a Trends as well, and found I liked it better than the wall wart... but never tried the cap across the input lines of the wall wart.  What value cap did you find worked best?

I don't remember the value of the cap. I do not understand electronics and don't know why this works. I can say that the cap was physically large, but a wide range of values was acceptable, according to my sources.

Just put a cap across the power inputs, as if to short them, and voila! Clear and clean and dynamic. This was a noticeable difference, well, to my ears anyhow. The batteries made the sound slightly smoother. The dynamism imparted by the wall wart + cap was more noticeable.

Oh, I had jumpered the volume pot in the Trends. That clarified the sound a great deal and was probably responsible for me hearing the differences as well as I did.