$175 Class D amp--120 wpc

luckyrolls · « **Reply #500 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 01:51 am »

Count me in as another one waiting for one of those cases!

For the Noobs out there, if I was able to get it together, anyone can. Just be sure to post questions or ask Tom (who held my hand the whole way on a Sunday). For me, this is the first time I even soldered anything (and I advise reading up on how to solder a good connection and practice - so you don't have to re-solder - or blow a fuse like I did because of a poor connection). Turning it on, seeing the lights come on and hearing the sound was incredibly rewarding - and it sounds fantastic!

shadowlight · « **Reply #501 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 01:53 am »

Quote from: jtwrace on 26 Feb 2010, 01:35 am

That's very kind of you to post. Keep in mind that some kits are different. My 600w TI chip based amp does NOT hookup like yours...For everyones saftey, always consult the manual for proper hookup. If you are not sure, ask Tom at Class D Audio.

Remember this voltage can cause harm or death!

Thanks for the reminder and I agree. Updated my original post to include the warning.

TrungT · « **Reply #502 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 02:45 am »

Shadowlight
Class D amp 12V battery powered, so it does not have transfromer, since the 12V power supply are small as you see, it's easy to made it fit in the small bamboo box.
The heatshink is just a recycle part I found somewhere.

I do have 100A AGM battery here to feed all Dodd Battery gears and the class D amp.
Cd player and DAC are only 2 things pluged on the wall (beside the battery charger)

steve k · « **Reply #503 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 03:05 am »

Pretty cool Trung! It would be interesting to compare your amp's sound to one with a linear PS (which is already quiet). I bet yours is even quieter. Very nice compact layout. Bravo.

I think these amps are going viral here!

steve

TrungT · « **Reply #504 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 03:24 am »

Thanks Steve
I did hook up with the linear PS before, to me the 12V just give little more punch at the bottom end.

and quiet

roymail · « **Reply #505 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 03:41 am »

Years ago when I was in college, I assembled a Heath Kit amplifier. I was even more inexperienced than I am now. But the HK came with diagrams and instructions and had many more parts than one of these amps. Even so, I was successful and it worked great.

That's what some of us need... a couple of diagrams and some step-by-step instructions. Thanks to Shadowlight for his help, that's what I'm talking about.

A wiring diagram, NOT SCHEMATIC, would be immensely helpful if not mandatory for people like me. I know that I can put one together, but I just want something I can refer to and be assured it's done right. I don't think I'm alone in this.

atroder · « **Reply #506 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 04:08 am »

What roymail said

. Also, I think it would be helpful if some final sanity checks could be listed such as "Measure the resistance across A and B. It should be x ohms or "Measure the voltage across points A and B. It should be x volts." If this can be done, I think it could reduce the chance of an expensive accident (but I'm not an electrical engineer or tech). Otherwise, I'm looking for a set of cheap, sacrificial speakers before I throw that switch.

walkern · « **Reply #507 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 02:39 pm »

Another lurker bites the dust! Just ordered the 250W X 2 amp kit and the Pass B1 board to boot... and I really don't need another amp or preamp. Am considering putting everything in one box and calling it an integrated amp.

Would anyone who has built a B1 please confirm what power supply you are using? I will order the 24VDC wall mount as listed on page 20 if anyone can confirm that it is okay. Best I can tell Nelson Pass recommends anything between +18 and +24 Volts, but says the B1 only draws 1/10 what the supply delivers in amperage... and I really don't want to destroy my project with an obvious oops! Also, for anyone using a B1, do you just leave it on all the time, or did you install an on/off switch?

Thanks to everyone for the posts and thread.

Now I've gotta get some peripherals ordered.

Neil

roymail · « **Reply #508 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 02:58 pm »

Neil, is there a kit available for the B1? Sorry, I may be the only person on here who doesn't know the answer to that question.

Thanks,
Roy

earplay · « **Reply #509 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 05:01 pm »

Quote from: roymail on 26 Feb 2010, 02:58 pm

Neil, is there a kit available for the B1? Sorry, I may be the only person on here who doesn't know the answer to that question.

Yes. I've got one on order. It's about $50. The store is on eBay. The address was mentioned in this thread a few pages ago.

wushuliu · « **Reply #510 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 05:16 pm »

Quote from: walkern on 26 Feb 2010, 02:39 pm

Another lurker bites the dust! Just ordered the 250W X 2 amp kit and the Pass B1 board to boot... and I really don't need another amp or preamp. Am considering putting everything in one box and calling it an integrated amp.

Would anyone who has built a B1 please confirm what power supply you are using? I will order the 24VDC wall mount as listed on page 20 if anyone can confirm that it is okay. Best I can tell Nelson Pass recommends anything between +18 and +24 Volts, but says the B1 only draws 1/10 what they supply delivers in amperage... and I really don't want to destroy my project with an obvious oops! Also, for anyone using a B1, do you just leave it on all the time, or did you install an on/off switch?

Thanks to everyone for the posts and thread. Now I've gotta get some peripherals ordered.

Neil

Hi Neil, the wall wart I linked works great. Amperage poses no harm. I don't use a switch. IMO, it draws so little power I don't see the need.

walkern · « **Reply #511 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 05:27 pm »

Thanks wushuliu! I was hoping the amperage was more or less irrelevant. Gotta go order that transformer and connector. Thanks again for posting the whole parts list too... really simplifies the ordering process when I know exactly what I should be getting.

And Roy, you can order the kit available from China (see ebay link by gitarretyp on page 21 of this thread) or order the board and matched transistors from Nelson at http://wwwpassdiy.com/order.htm and then populate the board with the parts listed by wushuliu on page 20 of this thread.

Neil

jtwrace · « **Reply #512 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 06:10 pm »

Why don't you also start a new thread on this? I'm sure many would like this detailed parts list...they will not find it here though.

steve k · « **Reply #513 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 06:35 pm »

That's a good idea. Mariusz can you split this into a new topic?
steve

roymail · « **Reply #514 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 07:46 pm »

Guys, thanks a bunch for the great info and parts kit stuff.

Wushuliu, thanks for a great resource list. I truly appreciate your efforts. I agree that it should be made available to others perhaps in a separate thread.

Also, I appreciate the heads-up regarding the China parts. I'll definitely go with Nelson Pass on the board and digi-key and mouser as suggested.

All this could be of significant help to others, too. Thanks again!

Niteshade · « **Reply #515 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 08:18 pm »

Mouser Electronics often has better prices on discreet components than most other places. Check them out.

ebag4 · « **Reply #516 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 08:25 pm »

Does anyone know what size LEDs are used on this amp? I want to put the same size LEDs on the faceplate. Also, if you know of a part number or a place that carries them that would be appreciated. I have an email into Tom but haven't heard back.

Thanks,
Ed

jtwrace · « **Reply #517 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 08:28 pm »

Ed-

just take a ride down to Radio Shack. They got 'em!

DougSmith · « **Reply #518 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 08:29 pm »

According to Tom, the blue LED is 3 to 3.4 volt, and yellow is 2 to 2.4 volt. They are extremely bright, by the way (you might want to tone them down with some resistors.

ebag4 · « **Reply #519 on:** 26 Feb 2010, 08:38 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 26 Feb 2010, 08:28 pm

Ed-

just take a ride down to Radio Shack. They got 'em!

Already looked there, they didnt have them.

Quote from: DougSmith on 26 Feb 2010, 08:29 pm

According to Tom, the blue LED is 3 to 3.4 volt, and yellow is 2 to 2.4 volt. They are extremely bright, by the way (you might want to tone them down with some resistors.

Thanks, I didn't realize they were different voltages. I am wondering what physical size those are, I would like to use the same size in my faceplate.

Thanks guys,
Ed

edit: nevermind, measuring one it appears to be about 1/8" which converts to about 3mm.