Not A Waste Of Time

mcullinan · « **Reply #20 on:** 4 Jan 2010, 08:46 pm »

Rear speakers ruin your sound stage. Keep your sub below 80hz and at the proper level compared to your other drivers and you wont be able to tell where the lows come from.
All this has prolly been said but Im too lazy to read.

All the Info: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/
M

opnly bafld · « **Reply #21 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 12:38 am »

Quote from: Levi on 4 Jan 2010, 06:42 pm

Hey Lin,

This topic interests me. What do you think about kick panels?

Hi Levi,

Cars are so different that I have heard all speaker locations sound good and bad.
Are you happy with the way it images and sounds? That is all that matters.

I have a friend that is a dealer/installer, in one of his vehicles he has tried all kinds of drivers in all possible locations (including custom) and he can not get satisfying sound, in his other vehicle he puts decent drivers in the stock location and it images and sounds great.

Quote from: Levi on 4 Jan 2010, 06:42 pm

I agree that the rear speakers are for rear passengers only. I want to try wiring the rear in series.

Are you using an outboard amp for the rear speakers?
Is it bridgeable?

If yes to both questions try bridging the rear channels to mono and series wire the rear speakers to the mono channel.

This is most effective with rear deck speakers since the rear speakers have a fairly direct path to your ears.
I've heard cars that the sound stage from left to right goes like this:

LF LF LF LR LR CF CF RR RR RF RF RF

A front faded setup and mono rear signal tends to cure this since all the rear sound seems to come from the center before it starts bouncing around.

Lin

opnly bafld · « **Reply #22 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 12:53 am »

Quote from: mcullinan on 4 Jan 2010, 08:46 pm

Rear speakers ruin your sound stage. Keep your sub below 80hz and at the proper level compared to your other drivers and you wont be able to tell where the lows come from.
All this has prolly been said but Im too lazy to read.

All the Info: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/
M

In my experience rear speakers can give a nice "back of hall sound" that can be quite pleasing without affecting the front stage at all.

In a perfect car stereo world I would mostly agree with the subwoofer statement, but what if someone doesn't want to alter/modify their car and the 4" front speakers only go down to 150 or 120hz?

Lin

Levi · « **Reply #23 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 02:12 am »

Thanks Lin!

I am truly satisfied with the sound. You know how it goes with audio, if you can improve it you will go the extra mile. The front dual-6-1/2" Focal drivers goes all the way down to 45Hz! The McIntosh car audio receiver, McIntosh amps and CD changer surely has synergy.

I will find out about the rear channels if I can do a mono config. I think I can.

Thanks again.

--Levi

Levi · « **Reply #24 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 02:17 am »

Picture of my deck. I am open for suggestions, it almost didn't fit the factory double din mount.

werd · « **Reply #25 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 07:55 am »

That looks really great levi ....

sts9fan · « **Reply #26 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 01:05 pm »

Answered my own question

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #27 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 01:09 pm »

The accelerator pedal says Accord.

Levi · « **Reply #28 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 01:20 pm »

I have a 7th generation Honda Accord. It has a factory radio/6disc changer integrated to the dual-climate control display. The cubby hole is the only place for an aftermarket option. As you can see the McIntosh receiver and an optional meter barely fits on the factory Din mount. The only way to fix that is going custom.

Before

After

sts9fan · « **Reply #29 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 01:26 pm »

I saw that it was an accord. Subaru's came with a McIntosh system a bit back so I did not know if it was one of those. I looked up a picture and found out it was not.

Browntrout · « **Reply #30 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 06:27 pm »

Quote from: werd on 4 Jan 2010, 08:33 pm

hello browntrout

That is absolutely false.... subs in the car are what make car audio half decent. And its because the sensation of bass can be felt with no identifying location. This is what drives hometheatre and 2/ch sub location also. The use of good power cap along with a good cabinet is paramount to what you are asking for. I also use a spike kit (which is completely unheard of) on my sub cabinet. This keeps the low freq energy moving forward to the front and not lost in the frame of the vehicle. Makes removing the cabinet a little difficult since it cant slide but its worth it. Bunches up the carpet.

Hello Werd, I think you might have misread my post as I also think a sub is what is required to enable good sound.

My personal experience is that two speakers sound better then four or twelve for that matter (when used with a sub)

chrisby · « **Reply #31 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 06:47 pm »

WERD:

IINM, I think the point that browntrout was trying to make is that phasing of rear mounted sub(s) for seamless integration with the soundstage produced by front row mid-bass drivers is the big challenge. Things certainly sound unnatural when a fluctuating mid-bass voices shift location across the XO point.

sts9fan · « **Reply #32 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 07:54 pm »

Thought this was a waste of time?

Browntrout · « **Reply #33 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 09:01 pm »

Thanks Chrisby.
Thanks for peoples patience with me, I find writing on here often a frustrating experience as the more I write the more people seem to misinterpret what I'm trying to say.

You are correct it's not a waste of time it's just that sometimes it feels like one.

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #34 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 09:50 pm »

Quote from: Browntrout on 5 Jan 2010, 09:01 pm

Thanks Chrisby.
Thanks for peoples patience with me, I find writing on here often a frustrating experience as the more I write the more people seem to misinterpret what I'm trying to say.
You are correct it's not a waste of time it's just that sometimes it feels like one.

Keep up writing, old sport. While this topic here is of no particular interest to me personally, you have written about things that are and your perspective has always been unique and refreshing. Cheers.

opnly bafld · « **Reply #35 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 10:53 pm »

Quote from: chrisby on 5 Jan 2010, 06:47 pm

WERD:

IINM, I think the point that browntrout was trying to make is that phasing of rear mounted sub(s) for seamless integration with the soundstage produced by front row mid-bass drivers is the big challenge. Things certainly sound unnatural when a fluctuating mid-bass voices shift location across the XO point.

Browntrout was quoting me and yes that is one of several problems encountered trying to make a rear mounted sub sound good in a car.

Werd,

No one in this thread has said not to use subs in a car, it is too easy to get extension and impact that many only dream of in a home system.

Lin

opnly bafld · « **Reply #36 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 11:25 pm »

Levi,

Looks like you have a great system.

If it were mine I would have to add a sub to play lower.
A 10" sub in a .75 cu ft sealed box (or a 12" in a cubic foot) with 100 watts or so with the x-o as low as possible will add another octave to what you already have.
You can either make the box so it stays in the trunk and uses up very little space or you can make it easy to pull out when needed.

Lin

PS The best system is the one that makes its owner happy.

opnly bafld · « **Reply #37 on:** 5 Jan 2010, 11:28 pm »

Quote from: Browntrout on 5 Jan 2010, 06:27 pm

Hello Werd, I think you might have misread my post as I also think a sub is what is required to enable good sound. My personal experience is that two speakers sound better then four or twelve for that matter (when used with a sub)

I agree!

Lin

mcullinan · « **Reply #38 on:** 6 Jan 2010, 12:41 am »

Levis system sounds pretty sweet too!
M

Levi · « **Reply #39 on:** 6 Jan 2010, 01:46 am »

Thanks guys for ALL the complements.

I had a 12" sub-box but took half the trunk space. I called it "grab box"! LOL.