[HAL]

Jason,
IIRC, Scott has a Dodd Audio Battery Preamp like mine.   

[dBe]

I can't think of a bigger value in audio when it comes to preamps.  I love mine.  I replaced a much modified Cary SLP-50B and the Dodd is more open sounding - I do have Platinum bypasses on the output section, BTW.

<><

Dave

[TrungT]

I only have 3 Dodd buffers.
 

[jtsnead]

I can't think of a bigger value in audio when it comes to preamps.  I love mine.  I replaced a much modified Cary SLP-50B and the Dodd is more open sounding - I do have Platinum bypasses on the output section, BTW.

<><

Dave

DITTO 

[ebag4]

I can't think of a bigger value in audio when it comes to preamps.  I love mine.  I replaced a much modified Cary SLP-50B and the Dodd is more open sounding - I do have Platinum bypasses on the output section, BTW.

<><

Dave

Ditto x2...I love mine!

I also converted the tape out to a volume controlled output hi-passed at about 140Hz using a sonicap platinum. 

With regard to tubes I would make a b-line to the 6H30, I am using a Pi version but many say the DR version is another step up.  To use the 6H30 you have to add a heatsink to the voltage regulator but doing this during initial assembly should be easier than retrofitting it later as I did.

Best,
Ed

[mikeeastman]

Ditto x 3. I've had mine for about a year and just got 2 more to mate with class d amps I'm building.

   Mike

[S Clark]

Jason,
IIRC, Scott has a Dodd Audio Battery Preamp like mine.

Bingo!! The buffer adds a tiny bit more detail (some of which could be the platinum bypass) and a bit wider soundstage.  But the differences are very noticeable. 
To better the full preamp, which along with the Modwright, were the top in their class, is a feat in itself.  To do it at an amazing value, is stunning.  I have said it before, and if it falls into the realm of fanbo_ I really don't care, Gary Dodd is an absolute genius when it comes to sound.

[HAL]

+1 to what Scott said!

I am building one for a friend to  try with the 6H30PI.  Just the input board to finish.  This will also have the Platinum bypass caps.

Maybe someone needs to build a demo unit for a tour. 

Just a thought.

[dBe]

Ditto x2...I love mine!

I also converted the tape out to a volume controlled output hi-passed at about 140Hz using a sonicap platinum. 

With regard to tubes I would make a b-line to the 6H30, I am using a Pi version but many say the DR version is another step up.  To use the 6H30 you have to add a heatsink to the voltage regulator but doing this during initial assembly should be easier than retrofitting it later as I did.

Best,
Ed

Ed, did you use a .47 or what?  I could figure it out, but asking you is easier.  I've had grandkids for a week and my brain has been turned to jelly   

Thank you, sir.

Dave

[NeilT]

OK, thanks for the feedback. Looks like a no-brainer decision.

It looks an easy / straight forward build?
Any tricks or things I should know to make it go smoother?
I am building a case from scratch.
I did not see any venting on the metal case on his site?

Thanks again for the feedback

Neil

[ebag4]

Ed, did you use a .47 or what?  I could figure it out, but asking you is easier.  I've had grandkids for a week and my brain has been turned to jelly   

Thank you, sir.

Dave

Hi Dave,
Yes, .047uF.  That is what was recommended to me by Danny and Gary.  BTW, if you are converting the tape out you will also need a 1K resistor:




Best,
Ed

[ebag4]

OK, thanks for the feedback. Looks like a no-brainer decision.

It looks an easy / straight forward build?
Any tricks or things I should know to make it go smoother?
I am building a case from scratch.
I did not see any venting on the metal case on his site?

Thanks again for the feedback

Neil

Hi Neil,
Gary's case has side vents.  I vented mine in the top.  It may not be necessary but IMHO venting electronics and trying to keep them cool is never a bad idea.  Here is mine:







Good luck!  (You won't need it, very easy build)

Best,
Ed

[dBe]

Hi Dave,
Yes, .47uF.  That is what was recommended to me by Danny and Gary.  BTW, if you are converting the tape out you will also need a 1K resistor:
Best,
Ed

Great Ed, thanks.  I thought that was the value.  The pic sure helps, too.

My best.

<><

Dave

[NeilT]

Thank you ED,  , looks great.
A picture is worth a whole bunch of words.
Is your's all wood, with just the metal plate in back for the RCA's.
Do any of the components need a heat sink?

Any chance, I could take a peek inside to see your layout?

Anyone else like to share some photos of their builds?

Thanks
Neil

[ebag4]

Great Ed, thanks.  I thought that was the value.  The pic sure helps, too.

My best.

<><

Dave

Sorry Dave, I mistyped, the value is actually .047uF as shown on the drawing (now fixed in my post).  Sorry for the confusion.  Here is the response I received from Danny when I asked:

"By the math a .047uF looks to be just right for the impedances of the amp that I am using and for those speakers. "

Best,
Ed

[NeilT]

Hey Ed,
Did you make your own faceplate?
Does anyone ever use the mute switch?
Nevermind, I see that it is also a power switch.

Thanks
Neil

[ebag4]

Thank you ED,  , looks great.
A picture is worth a whole bunch of words.
Is your's all wood, with just the metal plate in back for the RCA's.
Do any of the components need a heat sink?

Any chance, I could take a peek inside to see your layout?

Anyone else like to share some photos of their builds?

Thanks
Neil

Sure Neil, I don't currently have any pics of it in it's current state (added heat sink, now running from external AGM battery) but here a few from the original build.  BTW, yes, it is all wood except for the rear plate (wood was too thick for the RCAs and screen on top).  I will mention that I have a ClassD amp in a similar case (all wood) and the buffer and amp cannot be placed close together due to some electrical noise (generated by the ClassD amps transformer I believe).











edit, I did have a pic of the heat sink!

edit #2, yes, I made the faceplate.  After seeing my poor attempt to do something similar for my classD amp Trung recommended I try a woodburner, you know, like you used in cub scouts  .  This worked out pretty well, however if I were to do it again I would probably forgo the $15 woodburner and just have a local shop do a laser engraving for $30 

Best,
Ed

[dBe]

Sorry Dave, I mistyped, the value is actually .047uF as shown on the drawing (now fixed in my post).  Sorry for the confusion.  Here is the response I received from Danny when I asked:

"By the math a .047uF looks to be just right for the impedances of the amp that I am using and for those speakers. "

Best,
Ed

Hmmmmm. Ed, I could have sworn that the needed value was .47.

Thanks again.

Dave

[NeilT]

Your faceplate looks very good and thank you for all the pics.
I am thinking external bats are the way to go?

Neil

[ebag4]

Hmmmmm. Ed, I could have sworn that the needed value was .47.

Thanks again.

Dave

Dave, I am not sure what to tell you because I didn't come up with the value myself.  The response above was a quote from the PM Danny sent me, here is a pic of the cap he sent me installed in the buffer.




If you learn it should be something different please let me know.  It is difficult for me to hear the difference due to the coax of the V1 being hi-passed at 200 Hz anyway, so the advantage gained with the hi-pass cap in the Dodd is just to relieve the amp from playing the low bass.

Best,
Ed