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I have found with both wood finishing and auto body finishing, going from coarse/medium directly to fine can give "OK" or "satisfactory" results and sure is a lot quicker, but when I take the extra time and work my way up the abrasive ladder with progressively finer grits ending in ultra-fine, the finish produced is elevated to "superb" or "fantastic"! I'm sure knife blades are no different in that respect. Steve
I use an 8" DMT double diamond stone with 300 and 1000 grit, then finish by stropping on a 14"x4" piece of rough leather mounted on a board. If I'm using SS then I use a steel between sharpening, if using high carbon Japanese I just restrop. I have some antique stones for straight razors that sometimes I use for kicks, but they are a bit of a pain.
I do think a progression gives better results when ultimate sharpness is the goal. Obviously a serviceable edge doesn't require that much work. For example, I can sharpen a Wusthof chef's knife on a coarse or extra-coarse DMT Diasharp plate and it will shave coming right off the Coarse. But refining the scratch pattern will allow it to cut a lot better.
BTW, the EP Apex 5 Kit that CKtG sells is a pretty good deal.
Quote from: Rob Babcock on 30 Nov 2009, 01:03 amBTW, the EP Apex 5 Kit that CKtG sells is a pretty good deal.Hi Rob,I can't seem to find that kit on the CKtG site and Googling only comes back with generic links to CktG, here and a knife forum.
Well, for a nice slicer a may shy away from the yanaiba and look toward a (double beveled) sujihiki. I'd still like carbon steel and something in the Japanese style (wooden handle etc).