Eastern Electric DAC

Bill O'Connell · « **Reply #840 on:** 15 Apr 2011, 01:40 am »

Another great tweak for the DAC that I just received today and to my surprise at just how good they work are the Herbies Tenderfoot's. Four of these under the DAC.

DARTH AUDIO · « **Reply #841 on:** 15 Apr 2011, 03:15 am »

Quote from: Bill O'Connell on 15 Apr 2011, 01:40 am

Another great tweak for the DAC that I just received today and to my surprise at just how good they work are the Herbies Tenderfoot's. Four of these under the DAC.

First off the Mullard LPSG rocks with this DAC!! Well worth the "Buck 30"!! I've had herbie's Tenderfeet for a while. Damn nice with the EE DAC!! Bill, You and Alex have a real "Giant Killer"!!

Way to go Bill..

Gary

Gopher · « **Reply #842 on:** 15 Apr 2011, 03:32 am »

Looks like I'll have to investigate tenderfeet.

Yep, Alex designs some real winners. I'm auditioning to the Avant as I type this and the pre has a ton of potential, though I'm still looking for the perfect '50s Mullard' balance. It truly is amazing what well designed Chinese products are doing to the price/performance ratio in this hobby.

Alexdad54 · « **Reply #843 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:16 pm »

Well I have my new EE DAC nicely broken in and it sounds great, a bit aggressive on the high end but I'll be trying out my new Mullard soon ad see how that does My current problem is that I'm experiencing audio dropouts that come and go with no real regularity but are really annoying. They're ~1 sec in length and don' appear to have any pattern of appearance. I have re-checked my pc set up (EEE PC running Ubuntu serving an Alix board that feeds into the DAC via a Veloce spdif cable. USB to spdif conversion is done by my Audio-GD Digital Interface that uses a Trends chip) and it seems to be operating fine. Nick (nyc_paramedic) has also given it a clean bill of health.
I didn't have this issue with my NOS Havana but I have read the the Sabre chip doesn't like high-jitter feeds and this may be my problem. I switched from an M2Tech HiFace because I didn't like the high end on it but, if this theory is correct, may have to seek another converter.
All comments/ideas re this problem are most appreciated.

Levi · « **Reply #844 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:34 pm »

I noticed that the EE Dac is susceptible to AC noise. I would try to isolate the EE Dac from other equipment in the house. Hopefully the signal drop-out goes away.

Alexdad54 · « **Reply #845 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:38 pm »

Thanks Levi, I have the EE DAC hooked into a Majik Buss and then into the wall, I'm not sure what else I can do other than buying an isolation transformer...

coke · « **Reply #846 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:41 pm »

I also have dropouts when watching blu ray. No issues with my squeezebox though. Not sure what the problem is.

roscoeiii · « **Reply #847 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:53 pm »

Watching bu ray from via what input? Coax or optical?

If the USB-coax converter is a prob, you might want to check out the recently released Musical Fidelity converter. Same price range as the HiFace.

coke · « **Reply #848 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 09:18 pm »

Quote from: roscoeiii on 16 Apr 2011, 08:53 pm

Watching bu ray from via what input? Coax or optical?

If the USB-coax converter is a prob, you might want to check out the recently released Musical Fidelity converter. Same price range as the HiFace.

Optical out of an Oppo BDP-83.

No issues using coax from the squeezebox.

roscoeiii · « **Reply #849 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 09:59 pm »

In my experience with the EE DAC optical input was most susceptible to dropouts. And optical can often struggle with hi-res material. Maybe see if coax will avoid the prob. You could get a coax cable with RCA to BNC if need be.

koiman · « **Reply #850 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 11:31 pm »

I also have a problem with drop outs when the optical is hooked up to my Polk XM Radio receiver.
Lee

Turnandcough · « **Reply #851 on:** 17 Apr 2011, 12:29 am »

I had dropout problems when connected to a set top box via coax but none when connected to Squeezebox Touch.
This is a fine sounding DAC but it does have its quirks.
Fortunately I had an old Beresford lying around - more than adequate for STB duties.

satfrat · « **Reply #852 on:** 17 Apr 2011, 01:01 am »

Quote from: Alexdad54 on 16 Apr 2011, 08:16 pm

Well I have my new EE DAC nicely broken in and it sounds great, a bit aggressive on the high end but I'll be trying out my new Mullard soon ad see how that does My current problem is that I'm experiencing audio dropouts that come and go with no real regularity but are really annoying. They're ~1 sec in length and don' appear to have any pattern of appearance. I have re-checked my pc set up (EEE PC running Ubuntu serving an Alix board that feeds into the DAC via a Veloce spdif cable. USB to spdif conversion is done by my Audio-GD Digital Interface that uses a Trends chip) and it seems to be operating fine. Nick (nyc_paramedic) has also given it a clean bill of health.
I didn't have this issue with my NOS Havana but I have read the the Sabre chip doesn't like high-jitter feeds and this may be my problem. I switched from an M2Tech HiFace because I didn't like the high end on it but, if this theory is correct, may have to seek another converter.
All comments/ideas re this problem are most appreciated.

Dave, have you tried the USB cable directly into the EE Dac? Sounded pretty good in my system. Using the Empirical Off-Ramp 3 transport into the EE Dac was definitely better but I was surprised on how close it actually was. Just a thought fwiw.

Cheers,
Robin

Bill O'Connell · « **Reply #853 on:** 17 Apr 2011, 01:48 am »

Quote from: coke on 16 Apr 2011, 08:41 pm

I also have dropouts when watching blu ray. No issues with my squeezebox though. Not sure what the problem is.

Make sure your Blue Ray is set for PCM 2 channel stereo.

rklein · « **Reply #854 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 07:52 pm »

OK...I am buying into the Mullard Long Plate D Square Getter as one of the best tubes for the EE minidac. My question is which one? Yes, I have read through this thread, but people are using 1952 Mullards on through the late 50's Mullards. Is the CV491 tube the one to get? In reading, it seems this tube was made between 1955-57 and apparently commands a price of around $125-$175 depending... Here are the specs on this tube:
- 17mm long ribbed plates
- D-shaped square getter
- wavy glass Mullard CV491
- made in the Blackburn factory in England
- codes: B5K and B6B (year 1955 and 1956)

Robin made a comment not too far back in this thread, "make sure it is the right Mullard..."

I just want to be sure about getting the Mullard tube everyone is raving about before I shell out $100+ for it ...

Thanks,

Randy

Bill@LakeGeorge · « **Reply #855 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 08:33 pm »

Mullard 12au7 longplate D or square getter wire version . It
will have the K61 date code etched into the glass.

DARTH AUDIO · « **Reply #856 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 08:34 pm »

Quote from: rklein on 18 Apr 2011, 07:52 pm

OK...I am buying into the Mullard Long Plate D Square Getter as one of the best tubes for the EE minidac. My question is which one? Yes, I have read through this thread, but people are using 1952 Mullards on through the late 50's Mullards. Is the CV491 tube the one to get? In reading, it seems this tube was made between 1955-57 and apparently commands a price of around $125-$175 depending... Here are the specs on this tube:
- 17mm long ribbed plates
- D-shaped square getter
- wavy glass Mullard CV491
- made in the Blackburn factory in England
- codes: B5K and B6B (year 1955 and 1956)

Robin made a comment not too far back in this thread, "make sure it is the right Mullard..."

I just want to be sure about getting the Mullard tube everyone is raving about before I shell out $100+ for it ...

Thanks,

Randy

That looks like the right one? When I get home from the "Rock Pile" I'll check the box that My Mullard LPSG came in.

I replaced the stock tube with a Mullard LPSG. The DAC just came alive!! I'm really impressed with this DAC!! But, I'm a Mullard fan!! Their in my EE DAC, Monoblocks and Phono stage.

Enjoy,

Gary

rklein · « **Reply #857 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 08:39 pm »

Thanks Bill

Bill O'Connell · « **Reply #858 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 08:42 pm »

On the D shaped getter, look for a double bar on the straight line of the D

rklein · « **Reply #859 on:** 18 Apr 2011, 08:54 pm »

I did find this quote regarding this particular tube...

Quote

Speaking of 12 AU7's...

The best Mullard 12AU7 is the 1950's 17mm plate square getter version. It can be designated 12AU7, ECC82 or CV491 depending on the customer order. This tube was made up until 1958 and can be identified by the top line of the date code being k61, the 1 meaning Mullard's first version. It is also possible to find this tube branded Amperex Bugle Boy Made in Holland. In 1958 the getter shape was changed to a large O-getter, but this is still the same tube.The k62 versions are still excellent, but not as good. The Telefunken ECC802S is a very linear, uncolored tube with slight euphony to the mids, whereas the Mullard is fat, very colored, warm, and has great clarity with warmth on top. The Amperex 7316 early version, with a D-getter, is not as fat, lying sonically between the Mullard and Telefunken, it is extremely sweet with a euphonic rounded midrange and good bass. Later Amperex 7316's, particularly orange globe branded ones, are notably inferior.

Quote

The military box-plate Mullard CV4003/M8136 is not a particularly great tube, early 60's versions are ok, but later ones sound quite poor.

Ebay is full of over priced tubes and just because it says Mullard does not mean it is your best bet. One really has know know their tubes

I have seen pics of the CV491 version of the Mullard but cannot see the K61 anywhere on the tube.
Should I stay away?

Randy