[Venkman]

Thanks for replies and advice.  I did see the topic on vitrifying the PR, I will attempt this before I refoam them.  Right now I am in the middle of the long process of hand sanding the veneer. 

ST86, thanks  for the recommendation, I'm going to give them a call.

Nice setup Flintstone!   You mentioned you have subs set up in addition to your towers?  I have been debating whether I will keep my older Paradigm 12" sub in action or not. 

Again thanks for the help,
Bryan
 

[flintstone]

Thanks for replies and advice.  I did see the topic on vitrifying the PR, I will attempt this before I refoam them.  Right now I am in the middle of the long process of hand sanding the veneer. 

ST86, thanks  for the recommendation, I'm going to give them a call.

Nice setup Flintstone!   You mentioned you have subs set up in addition to your towers?  I have been debating whether I will keep my older Paradigm 12" sub in action or not. 

Again thanks for the help,
Bryan

Yes, I have one tallboy and one original sub....626's for center, sides, and rears. The lower section of the Supertower/R's are each the same as the Larger Subwoofer VMPS sells....you won't need the Paradigm. (although you could place it in the rear of the room?).

My room is 25'x 23'x 9' so the extra bass is fine.


Dave

[Venkman]

Thanks Flintstone, I'll have to play with the room setup once I get them up and going I suppose.

I've got them close to sanded and had a question.  What is the best way to get the top mounted super tweeter out?   I've taken a look at it, and it appears to be just glued in place as I can't see any screws?   I'm getting close to the point where I will be spraying lacquer and it seems it would be much easier to remove the tweeter rather than trying to work around it.

Also, should I create another thread?  It seems this one has drifted way past my initial post.  Sorry, not too savvy on forum do's and dont's.

Thanks,
Bryan

[flintstone]

Thanks Flintstone, I'll have to play with the room setup once I get them up and going I suppose.

I've got them close to sanded and had a question.  What is the best way to get the top mounted super tweeter out?   I've taken a look at it, and it appears to be just glued in place as I can't see any screws?   I'm getting close to the point where I will be spraying lacquer and it seems it would be much easier to remove the tweeter rather than trying to work around it.

Also, should I create another thread?  It seems this one has drifted way past my initial post.  Sorry, not too savvy on forum do's and dont's.

Thanks,
Bryan

Bryan

I don't recall what someone posted on that years ago, I recall them saying it wasn't easy? (mine haven't been out) I would start a different thread now that you own them, and are well into the restore process.....some before and after pics would be nice!

Hopefully Big B will answer you question on the up firing tweeter removal 


Dave

[Brian Cheney]

That top piezo is a Motorola 1039A, no longer in production.  It's plastic and glued in place.  I wouldn't try to remove it if it's working.  If it is not working there are modern equivalents available.  To remove, use a heat gun or chisel.

[keithl]

Hi Bryan,

I recently got a pair of these myself which also need a lot of work. I was just curious to see how your rebuild is going. Any photos or updates?

Thanks,
Keith

[John Casler]

Hi Bryan,

I recently got a pair of these myself which also need a lot of work. I was just curious to see how your rebuild is going. Any photos or updates?

Thanks,
Keith

Hi Keith,

Good Score!

And welcome to the VMPS Circle.

[keithl]

Hi John,

Thanks for the welcome.
I picked up about a month ago knowing they needed work as you can see.
Obviously the 12's and 15's and passives are all dead and unfortunately were not replaced with stock drivers.




Fortunately the mids and tweeters are all intact.

Thanks,

Keith
 

[Venkman]

Hey Keith,

You should be able to click on my profile and go to my gallery, or look at my previous posts.  I have another thread here that shows them finished. 

Good find! John or Brian can get you modern replacements for the 12's and 15's. 

If you have questions, I'll offer whatever advise I can on your rebuild. 

Good luck!

Bryan

[keithl]

If you have questions, I'll offer whatever advise I can on your rebuild. 

Good luck!

Bryan
[/quote]

Thanks Bryan.

I was just curious to see what you actually did as far as replacing or refoaming and anything else.

Did you place the 12's and 15's or refoam? If you did refoam...where did you get the kits?

Did you put new foam around the tweeters?

Thanks
Keith

[Venkman]

I re-foamed the 12's and the passive 15's.   I am waiting for a few extra dollars to upgrade to the newer 15's from Brian. 

Mids were OK along with tweeters and the piezo on top.  You may be able to refoam the 15" passives, but before doing so I must issue this warning.   They are a PITA to refoam.  I've breezed through re-foaming quite a few speakers without an issue.  These passives have a very large basket-to-hole ratio (I think I just coined that ridiculous phrase), which makes it difficult to apply pressure to the underside of the cone while gluing.  Not only that, but the foams that I got seemed to be much thicker/stiffer than the originals.  (Brian will have to chime in on how much that effects the sound.)  If I had to do it over again, I would have ordered the replacement passives and been done with it.  The passives are cheap enough that it's not worth the hassle.  I spent the time re-foaming them, and will probably end up getting the replacements from them when I order the actives. 

The 12's were not easy either, but it looks like you won't have to worry about re-foaming them.
You probably won't be able to re-foam your 15" active either, since you only have one and finding a replacement 15 that matches the original may be next to impossible.

If you choose to re-foam your passives, I can only safely recommend one guy for the foams.  PM me if you want his info. 

Again, good luck! Hope this helps some!

Bryan

[keithl]

I would love to buy all new drivers and passives, but can't justify that now. I am thinking about vitrifying and refoaming the passives for now and starting to replace the drivers as I can.

I have some water damage on the front of one of the speakers. Do you know if you can remove the lower front piece of the cabinet just below the grill?

Thanks
Keith

[John Casler]

If you have questions, I'll offer whatever advise I can on your rebuild. 

Good luck!

Bryan


Thanks Bryan.

I was just curious to see what you actually did as far as replacing or refoaming and anything else.

Did you place the 12's and 15's or refoam? If you did refoam...where did you get the kits?

Did you put new foam around the tweeters?

Thanks
Keith

Keith,

Your speakers are not TOWER II's.  I think they look like SuperTowers in one form or another, but they were "before my time"

I'll PM you the price on the 12" and 15" actives and the 15" PR's.

[ST86]

Hi,

Those speakers are in fact Supertowers, I recognize them because I have a pair of them from the mid 80s. You should be able to remove the piece below the grill.  Several years ago that piece fell off of one of my cabinets.  I re-attached it with wood glue and clamps.

I refoamed the 5" mids and 12" woofers.  Replaced the 15" actives and passives.  Can recommend a couple of places for refoam kits.  Bought the 15" actives and passives from Brian.

As a fellow Supertower owner I echo what Venkman said.  If you have questions I'll offer any advice I can.

[keithl]

Hi,

Those speakers are in fact Supertowers, I recognize them because I have a pair of them from the mid 80s. You should be able to remove the piece below the grill.  Several years ago that piece fell off of one of my cabinets.  I re-attached it with wood glue and clamps.

I refoamed the 5" mids and 12" woofers.  Replaced the 15" actives and passives.  Can recommend a couple of places for refoam kits.  Bought the 15" actives and passives from Brian.

As a fellow Supertower owner I echo what Venkman said.  If you have questions I'll offer any advice I can.

Sent PM.