[RonR]

After several false starts, I've finally got around to starting my Vsonics build.

For those who are interested, I'll keep a record of progress in this album: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=2123

The outer panels are 19mm Marine plywood with MDF internal baffles, externally they will be covered in white oak veneer.
I've departed from Hugh's construction details slightly by having a top-to-bottom front baffle to please SWMBO, but the all-important internal dimensions are as designed by Laurie. Biscuit joints are used throughout for strength and to keep panels lined up whilst the glue is curing.

I can't wait to hear them, but there's a long way to go yet:

[AKSA]

Hi Ron,

Truly magnificent build quality, congratulations!  These look absolutely lovely......

We will be very interested to hear your views of the sound quality, Ron!

Not long now, perhaps a couple of weeks?

Cheers,

Hugh

[RonR]

Hi Hugh,

A couple of weeks may be a bit optimistic what with work commitments at weekends and a car to fix, but I'll get a few days TOIL soon, so I can hopefully get on with it then.

Meanwhile, here's the latest pic with veneered fronts and driver holes cut out:

[RonR]

I had the day off today, and fixed the baffles into the cabinets:

[Grumpy_Git]

Ron

Looking very nice, now if only I had the space time and money to get back into Audio.

 I'm coming up to my "W" day and bought a Mazda MX-5 Mk1 on a whim so am strapped for cash, plus for some reason the AKSA is in the cupboard and I'm using a Denon AVR for noise atm I have no idea why I did this......

Nick.

[Johnny]

Very nice Ron 

I had been thinking about biscuit joints, but didn't want to have to get into the veneering business. Opted for Baltic birch ply and box joints with a 15 degree bevel on the corners. Interior panels of mdf of course.  It'll do for now I guess. I'll probably have another go at cabinets at some point. I like your treatment of the port- a cabinet maker's nightmare from a design point of view.

The port bottoms will slide into the slots in bottom. A small trim piece will finish out the bottom front of the cabinet. The void underneath will be filled with a slab of 1 in mdf and the whole screwed to a black mdf plinth a bit larger than the speaker foot print all the way 'round. Those are Cardas "patented" binding posts. Quit a bargain for Cardas and high end posts in general.

My build stalled this summer, as we finally got a proposal funded and I have been spending a lot of time in the field. Hugh must be ready to disown me  Now off on vacation to the beautiful rocky Maine coast for two weeks. Can't wait to plunge into that cold water! If all goes well, My Vsonics will be well into break in by the end of September.

Cheers,
John

[RonR]

Hello again Nick,

Interesting choice of wheels you have there. Mazda vehemently deny it, but the rest of the world thinks that the MX5 (Miata) is a modern interpretation / shameless copy of the 1960's Lotus Elan, and all the better for it!
I'm a hopeless case I'm afraid, when the Audiophilia Nervosa subsides enough I get taken over by Automobilia Nervosa, and disappear into the garage with my Imperial Toolbox for some serious Elan tinkering.

BTW you really need to get that AKSA 55 out of the cupboard and playing tunes again!

All the best for the "W"

Cheers,

Ron.

[RonR]

Hi John,

Those cabinets look excellent to me. Your construction must be spot-on if the Plywood is exposed, at least I get to cover my mistakes with veneer! The front baffle was the key to my build, because it's dimensions change depending on the thickness of the Plywood used if internal dimensions are to be kept accurate.
I also had the thought of making some kind of plinth, also in black, but I may just decide to go for 3 spikes per cabinet instead. The Soundcare ones look good: http://www.superspikes.com

The veneering isn't really that difficult to do. I use an 8' x 4' x 0.6mm veneer and sheets of iron-on glue. The Veneer is thin enough to cut with scissors, and edge trimming is done with a router and trimming blade.

Have a good holiday, and come back refreshed and raring to finish off those cabinets!

Cheers,

Ron.

[AKSA]

Nick,

Ron is on the money, this is an Elan if ever I saw one......  Tinker (aka Ben Williams, designer of the GK1 control system) has one and has changed the diff ratio for lower gearing, and the induction system for better breathing at lower speeds.  Results are stunning, it's a lovely car.  However, I have some difficulty fitting my more remote bits into such a tiny space, my motorcycle has more room to be frank.  But oh, the handling, it's spectacular, and with your butt so close to the ground the perception of speed is almost feral.

I trust your big W goes well, but believe it, if it doesn't, and there are many variables such as weather, inlaws/outlaws, etc, I'm sure the marriage will!!

John,

High praise from Ron, who has also built sensational VSonics cabinets.  I congratulate you on a beautiful build, thoughtful, precise, and well finished.  And no, I realise that people are busy in their lives, and I look forward to resuming our chat when you have the time, so enjoy that freezing water off the coast of Maine!

Cheers,

Hugh

[Tinker]

Hi Ron,
   that's an awesome looking veneer job.  I've been too afraid to try it myself - it seems messy and hard.  If you don't mind sharing your secret, would you mind telling me what method you used? Iron on or vacuum press or something else?

Ben.

[RonR]

Hi Ben,

The secret's in the glue - Sheet glue. You just cut a piece to fit the veneer, sandwich it between the work piece and veneer, and Iron. The glue sheet melts and then solidifies as it cools.
It's best to quickly clamp a piece of mdf over the veneer while it cools to stop it lifting.
Job done.

I'm not sure if it's widely available, but here's a link to some on Epay

Cheers,

Ron

[Tliner]

Hi All,

I have used adhesive film (similar to plastic lunch wrap) to glue wood veneer to MDF etc. This is the easiest way to glue a wood veneer to MDF, chipboard, plastics and even suitably prepared steel and aluminium. I have used products commercially from www.dryfilmadhesives.com   in the US. Look up wood veneer adhesives and you will find hundres of suppliers and even more types of veneer adhesives. You can buy wood veneer with heat glue applied but then you can't always line up the grain as you like.
I prefer using a film adhesive because you can cover up any woodworking indiscresions particularly when building prototype speakers. Some speakers are screwed together and the screw head holes are filled with a polyester 2 pack woodworking filler which is easily sanded to give a blemish free surface to laminate over.

The general procedure of applying the veneer is:-

1. Clean the surface thoroughly then cut the adhesive film oversize so it over hangs about 2" all round the job. Place the veneer in place. It doesn't matter that the veneer is over size too as it will shrink slightly when heated.

2. Nick the cloths iron from the missus and set it to the appropriate heat.  Use the highest temperature that does not show heat marks (scorch marks) on the veneer after say 20 seconds without moving the iron. First do a trial on some scrap to get the correct heat setting. When satisfied that the bond is good rub the iron with presure slowly over an area about the size of an A4 sheet of paper. Immediately apply pressure for about 30 seconds by rubbing over the area with a rag sufficiently thick so you will not get burned. Repeat the process untill finished. If you are unlucky enough to find blisters just make a pin hole in the blister to let the air out then re heat and apply pressure till cool.

3. Use about 60 grit sandpaper on a sanding block held at about a 45 degree angle to lightly sand any over hanging veneer so that it becomes paper thin then roll sand it flat over to the other surface and sand off smooth with about 300 to 400 grit paper.

4. If you have glue all over the sole plate of the iron, buy the wife a new one. No clean up job will ever be good enough.

Have Fun,

Laurie 

[Grumpy_Git]

Thanks for all the wedding wishes, it should be interesting, we decided to have the wedding in October to pretty much guarantee poor weather  , thats one variable sorted. In-laws on the other hand 

I agree that the MX-5 is a shameless Elan copy/clone, frankly I'd have one if the money was there along with Dodge Charger in full General Lee livery!   
As it is I love my car even with the work she needs. Hugh I cant agree with you about the space available, I fit in so its more than enough, dont bother with luggage, just buy new clothes and keep driving.
Some sticky round bits and laser alignment to come as shes a bit twichy...

Minor on topic comment: I tried the veneer with my Rythmik sub, I've no tools as such and I built it in the lounge but I found it pretty eeasy to work with, even lining up the narrow sheets I bought.

now back to your regular programming.......

Nick

[Tinker]

Thanks for the tips!
I've seen the preglued stuff but the nicer timbers are a bit sketchy because they are usually cobbled together out of smaller strips (I suppose this keeps the price down). There is a good local supplier of veneer round our way but the magic glues sheets seem to be hard to find. Now I know what to look for I'll go searching for these glue sheets.  I'll post back if I find a source in Oz.

Thanks again.

Ben.

[Tliner]

Hi Ben,

There are a few adhesive film suppliers in Melbourne which I have used from time to time. Another product that is as good as adhesive film is heat web adhesive. I have used an number of suppliers in Melbourne for both adhesive film and heat web and timber veneers. Sometimes you might have to wait a few days to get the type of timber veneer you want.
Cheers,
Laurie

[RonR]

Latest on the Vsonics build:

Nearly there!



Just need to veneer the tops (ran out of sheet glue), wire up the drivers and binding posts, a coat or two of oil or varnish, and fix the cabinet bases on.

Cheers,

Ron

[AKSA]

GO RON!!!   

Hugh

[SamL]

Nice looking speaker.. 
Your hard work will pay off nicely with good sound. Well, I pay a short visit to Hugh's DIY treasure palace and had a little listen to the Vsonic. Surprise to find its off axis respond is as good as some 5". Music is full of life & details. The integration between the tweeter and midbass is superb. One thing I find is the high need a bit of getting used to, mainly because I am used to the mellow sound of OW1.
 

Sam

[Tliner]

 Great work Ron! .

You are only a few days away from aural bliss.

Laurie

[AKSA]

HI Ron,

Are you in aural bliss yet?  Inquiring minds yadda yadda........

Hugh