Product Inquiries

Herbie · « **Reply #20 on:** 30 Apr 2013, 03:20 am »

Baby Booties or Tenderfeet should do very well. Tenderfoot isolation feet, TenderSoft version, would most likely be the best choice for optimal sonic results.

(With compliant footers like Herbie's Tenderfeet, four is almost always better than three. With four, you get better lateral stability, more versatility with placement of the footers, the areas of the component chassis are more evenly divided for vibration control, you have more vibration absorbing and blocking "beef" to do the job, and most importantly you'll virtually always get an audibly superior result.)

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

kbuzz3 · « **Reply #21 on:** 18 May 2013, 09:10 pm »

Steve-any suggestions for a vintage sherwood tube integrated? Iso/ebony? Tall tenderfeet? Below is a pic of the uneven bottom of the chassis. Feet also appear to be removable. Unit will rest on an ikea lack table or a wall shelf which appears to be drywall. Thanks

Herbie · « **Reply #22 on:** 18 May 2013, 09:55 pm »

I recommend trying four Extra-Firm Tenderfoot isolation feet under the amp and an UltraSonic SS Damping Instrument for each of the small-signal vacuum tubes.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

jeff67 · « **Reply #23 on:** 3 Jun 2013, 03:13 pm »

Herbie,
I have an unusual implementation of one/more of your products. I want to isolate the motor mount assembly from the frame on my VPI MKIII. You can think of the way the motor assembly is attached to the frame as I holding a sandwich with one hand to eat: the hand being the motor assembly plate(s) and the sandwich being the frame. I do not want to buy an after market SAMA unit. I believe I can employ some of your products to do this. I do NOT have a problem modifying the frame to accomplish this. My thought is to 'carve' a relief in the frame where the motor mounting plate(s) meets the frame (top side and bottom) and using a 'stand-off' affair to isolate the motor assembly from the frame. I would then make a cylindrical cut out (using a forstner bit to make the relief hole) to place either the grunge busters washers, or modify (drill a hole thru) the baby booties and place them in the relief hole (top and bottom) and then bolt the frame thru these essentially isolating the motor assembly from the frame (making it 'float'). Can you give me some insight as to which one would be better (booties or grunge washers or some other product)?

Herbie · « **Reply #24 on:** 5 Jun 2013, 03:29 am »

Hi, Jeff. I would favor grungebuster material. This material (washers, Dots, sheet) has been used by many VPI customers in and around the plinth, sub-plinth, frame, etc., and for motor isolation with excellent results.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

Etnier · « **Reply #25 on:** 17 Sep 2013, 06:14 pm »

Due to environmental issues in my home I have to use a dustcover on my Rega RP3 turntable. Wondering if there's product which might be stuck to the center of the cover top to dampen things a bit?

Herbie · « **Reply #26 on:** 17 Sep 2013, 07:32 pm »

An Extra-Thick 5" x 8" grungebuster Sheet will damp the dustcover significantly.

http://herbiesaudiolab.net/gb.htm#gasket

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

Etnier · « **Reply #27 on:** 17 Sep 2013, 07:38 pm »

Thanks, Steve. I was hoping for something that would be a little smaller, less visible? Is that possible?

Herbie · « **Reply #28 on:** 17 Sep 2013, 10:40 pm »

SuperSonic Stabilizer placed on top of the cover or Fat Dots w/adhesive are excellent possibilities. You might just place small grungebuster Dots at the corners, between where the cover touches the turntable, instead of (or in addition to) placing something on top of the cover.

http://herbiesaudiolab.net/gb.htm

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

Etnier · « **Reply #29 on:** 17 Sep 2013, 11:22 pm »

Many thanks! I will check this out.

DZetye · « **Reply #30 on:** 2 Jan 2014, 12:14 am »

Are the Herbies Grungebuster dots in the 1/16" thickness stackable for increased isolation properties? Thanks.

Herbie · « **Reply #31 on:** 2 Jan 2014, 01:15 am »

Yes, DZetye. All thicknesses of grungebuster Dots are stackable to achieve different and unique thicknesses. Fat Dots and "Thin" Fat Dots can also be stacked together to get different thicknesses. Grungebuster Dots and dBNeutralizer Dots can be stacked together as well; they're very compatible with one another.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab

spreadspectrum · « **Reply #32 on:** 1 Feb 2014, 04:37 pm »

Can any of your products be used for speaker cable elevation and vibration control?

Whether one believes in elevating speaker cables off the carpet or not, there are clearly transmitted vibrations through them. I was curious as to whether resting the cables on a number of small or medium soft fat dots would accomplish both.

Your HAL-O devices would seem to be a good choice for vibration control, although I am uncertain of using multiples as a cable elevator. Furthermore, my cables use Furutech's angled locking bananas, which might render these a difficult fit.

Thoughts?

Ryan

Herbie · « **Reply #33 on:** 1 Feb 2014, 05:42 pm »

Hi, Ryan. Lifting cables and interconnects off the floor always has potential for sonic improvement. Also, it's most important to prevent close-proximity parallel runs of cabling to eliminate sonic anomalies caused by electromagnetic inductance.

We have lots of customers using grungebuster Dots or Soft Fat Dots for isolation between cable lifters and cable/interconnect. HAL-O JR or Mini Jr can also be used quite effectively. HAL-O JR or Mini Jr can also be used intermittently along the cable for vibration control, with or without cable lifters. Cable lifters can be quite sophisticated like utility pole insulators or simple like folded cardboard or tissue roll cardboard (a v-slot is all you need). Maple or other hardwood blocks are also popular and effective.

The compact titanium HAL-O JR works superbly with Furutech locking bananas.

Steve Herbelin
Herbie's Audio Lab

spreadspectrum · « **Reply #34 on:** 1 Feb 2014, 06:41 pm »

Awesome - thank you for the information. I just ordered a bunch of tenderfeet for four of my components, and I'll figure out some combination of the HAL-O and dots for my next buy.

I have to tell you, I am VERY impressed by a set of giant titanium cone/spike decoupling gliders I recently bought from you. One of the biggest improvements to my system in recent memory.

Good stuff.

jostber · « **Reply #35 on:** 8 Mar 2014, 07:22 pm »

I was looking at the Kalrez dots at the web site. What are the Kalrez solid dots most useful for? Can these be used to stabilize tube sockets?

Herbie · « **Reply #36 on:** 8 Mar 2014, 08:50 pm »

Kalrez Dots and washers are most useful as a decoupling interface subject to extreme heat. They are useful for stabilizing tube sockets, though regular grungebuster Dots are just as effective in this application.

Steve Herbelin
Herbie's Audio Lab

Denverhifi · « **Reply #37 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 05:16 pm »

Hi Steve,
At RMAF this year, I purchased a George Warren turntable. As good as it sounds, I know from using your products on my speakers and amp, that I want to get something under my new table.
What do you recommend? The tripod feet are broad, and don't have points.

Thanks,
Patrick

Herbie · « **Reply #38 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 05:52 pm »

I would suggest trying an Extra-Thick grungebuster Dot under each of the stock feet as well as under the external motor.

Steve Herbelin
Herbie's Audio Lab

RPM123 · « **Reply #39 on:** 16 Jan 2015, 07:13 pm »

Hi Steve,

As a new Well Tempered TT owner, I have found that it is much more subject to vertical movement because of the squash ball feet and the fact that my equipment rack sits on a suspended wood floor. (Note: mounting a TT platform on a side wall is NOT an option in my house.) This was never an issue when I was using a far heavier non-suspended TT. Would it be possible to manufacture a "grungebuster" or "MedicineBall" that would be a direct replacement for the WTT squash balls? Regulation squash balls are from 39.5 to 40.5 mm and the products mentioned above are either too small or too large to fit in the "cups" underneath the TT. I know that there are a number of WTT owners out there and I wonder if there would be sufficient interest among them to make it worth your effort? I also know that you have other products such as isolation feet, however, I think that adding such feet would detract from the aesthetics of the WTT. Thanks. Glenn