[cynan]

As already stated, don't use automotive batteries indoors unless there is adequate ventilation. They give off gasses which can ignite and/or explode.

True, but I think it is important to distinguish between older automotive batteries and the relatively recent sealed varieties. The specific batteries discussed in this forum so far have been absorbent glass mat designs. These are sealed and only emit gasses (ie, volatile acid) when under extreme use (when the pressure inside the battery reaches a certain level). This is a fail-safe to prevent explosions - and I don't see the valves openning all to frequently for applications that demand smaller constant currents such as the one discussed. Furthermore, most of the configurations discussed have been in the neighborhood of 10Ah. These are relatively small compared to automotive-size batteries and should limit  accumilation of any dangerous levels of gasses to negligible. These batteries are used all the time in in-door UPS applications (ie, alarm systems, computer battery backups, etc).

Maybe cramming the batteries in an air-tight enclosure might be somewhat dangerous, other than that, four the purpose of driving a virtue amp, I would think most modern sealed AGM designs in the sizes we have been looking at (about 10 Ah) should be quite safe.

[Bear]

If anybody wants to run their whole system so that it is isolated from the mains, one method is to use batteries with inverters as described at:

http://www.tnt-audio.com/tours/definitive_audio_e.html

IMHO, the only way to know if battery power is better than a conditioner (and there are conditioners and conditioners) is to have the whole system running from each of them. And then, the difference will be down to how poor your mains system is in the first place (and how good the conditioner is).

As already stated, don't use automotive batteries indoors unless there is adequate ventilation. They give off gasses which can ignite and/or explode.

The other way to use batteries for the whole system is to bypass the AC supply in each piece of equipment and make some provision to connect the DC from the batteries. You may need to regulate that DC, ie in the case of a Logitech SB3 requiring a 5v supply rather than 12v. And if any of your equipment runs off split rails, you will need extra batteries to cover that.

And don't run it all off batteries and sit back and think "that's it". You may still have RFI to worry about too! Anyone for knitting? 

The idea of removing the AC/DC conversion coupled with the "clean" power from the batteries is an interesting one to me.  Im obviously no electrical engineer but from an intuitive perspective  the cumulative aspects of aspects could be significant as the batteries could supply "clean" instantaneious power to the amps and remove "noise" from the signal path thereby resulting in a lower noise floor and improved dynamics by removing the ac/dc conversion process.  The invertor solution may yield a benefit but would be a less than potentially  "optimal" scenario.


btw i can't see what i am typing as thewindow keeps jumping around as i type....less than optimal for sure...and agravationf.

[dvenardos]

I am setting up a power supply for use with both the Virtue Two and Sensation. What type of power jack does the Sensation use?

[virtue]

It ships with a 4-pin din adapter so you can use the standard bullet 2.1mm/5.5mm plug.

[mikeeastman]

What brand of inverters are you talking about? I work with whole house inverters in my work and none that I've work with,IMHO  are quiet enough to use on high end systems

[dvenardos]

Is that the plug that is used with the battery kits?

It ships with a 4-pin din adapter so you can use the standard bullet 2.1mm/5.5mm plug.

[TrungT]

[dvenardos]

Thanks Trung.

[TrungT]

Don
Your welcome.