[ACHiPo]

It may be premature, but I just pulled the trigger on a donor Lenco L75 that will be transformed into (hopefully) an amazing second turntable.

[who?me?]

Trying to get this Triplett tube tester up and running properly.

The 3444 is passing the Line Test,  not passing the Gm test.

I need some serious help with this thing. Im replacing the caps right now ,but after that ??????? 

[audioengr]

Trying to get this Triplett tube tester up and running properly.

The 3444 is passing the Line Test,  not passing the Gm test.

I need some serious help with this thing. Im replacing the caps right now ,but after that ??????? 

I have one of these and it works perfectly.  It was refurbished and calibrated by a guy in Calif., Christopher Merren of Merren Audio.  He's a EE. 310-426-8726

He replace all of the electrolytic caps, the selenium rectifier with a silicon diode bridge rectifier, trim-pots in the calibration locations, replaced out of tolerance resistors, cleaned the switch contacts etc..

If you don't have the owners manual and the schematic, I can send you a copy.

Steve N.

[who?me?]

Thanks Steve,
I did print out the manual and schematic and calibration testing (tho that one is hard to read)

I saw the Merren website. He says outright that he is actually not big on the 3444's, that the are just OK.
Needless to say, he hasn't returned my email, inquiring about restoration. An audio amateur tinkerer friend of mine seems to think that the 3444 may be running ok with just the cap replacement.
Apparently, he has had this kind of luck!

Today, I am trying to order the replacement caps. I've found perfect spec replacements for all of them except the biggest on  - a 50uF/350VDC cap. It is about the size of the M80s we used to get from the Indian Reservations around the 4th of July. But hopefully these won't blow up!

In any case, I have found some 47uF/350VDC caps, and Im wondering if the 3uF difference b/w the 47 and 50uFs is significant, or not?

O/w, the closest I can find to a 50/350 is a 50/450VDC, a 100VDC difference.

Which would be better/worse (depending on how one looks at it) to replace the 50/350 with:
A. the 47uF/350VDC or
B. the 50uF/450VDC ?

[who?me?]

Ive decided to "go Pro" and post a separate thread on my Triplett 3444 restoration,
IM gonna need help!

[audioengr]

In any case, I have found some 47uF/350VDC caps, and Im wondering if the 3uF difference b/w the 47 and 50uFs is significant, or not?

O/w, the closest I can find to a 50/350 is a 50/450VDC, a 100VDC difference.

Which would be better/worse (depending on how one looks at it) to replace the 50/350 with:
A. the 47uF/350VDC or
B. the 50uF/450VDC ?

I believe either will be fine, but the higher voltage will probably last longer.  47 versus 50 is a non-issue.

Steve N.

[barefootbrewer]

Bottlehead Foreplay kit will be arriving this week. Doesn't seem to be a lot of support for it, because it is so old. But I've hear the manuals are extremely detailed.

[NickMimi]

For a few years now i have known that my high level A/B switch has needed to be upgraded. I have needed a custom solid state switching mechanism of high quality build and design but procrastinated on having one commissioned due to cost constraints and indecision on a builder. Few people like to swap speakers and amplifiers, it’s not for everyone, I have appreciation for many products and being able to swap either speakers or amps without  having to pull cables is my own personal preference.

I finally settled on an excellent machinist / woodworker w/ some excellent electronics skills,  Midwinterdesignworks@gmail.com and based on his experience and my desires we came up w/ the pictured product.

This is a one of a kind, 3 way, A/B/C, (3 amplifier, 3 speaker) switch box with the addition of a dedicated set of taps to also accept high level subwoofer inputs that can be fed to the desired set of speakers now.

There is a beautiful custom inlaid piece of Manzanita Burl wood, the black anodized aluminum case is a solid block, milled extra thick and heavy to provide weight and stability no matter what gauge or size speaker cables I decide to connect. 14 pair Cardas all copper binding posts, Dueland tin plated copper cable along w/ Cardas silver solder, and industrial grade switches were used. They don’t show well in the pictures but labels were milled above and below the knobs indicating 1,2,3, Amplifier and Speaker over and under each knob, while the binding posts in the rear are also each individually labeled. Lastly, the end all feature is 2 massive pure copper, custom milled knobs.

There is just over 3 lbs of copper in the build and the whole piece weighs in close to 20 lbs

I’m so very pleased, the weakest link in my primary 2 channel system has finally been rectified and everything works perfectly 🤌