[Danny Richie]

Will those who picked up this deal be jealous of the new one?

No.

[cleestedwood]

Dan would No-rez in this honey oak cabinet make a noticable difference then the way it came?

[Danny Richie]

It should in fact. How much is hard to say.

[brother love]

Danny,

I'm looking into applying NoRez & floor spikes to this F12G sub I purchased from you in April '09.

Based on sub dimensions & extrapolating from similar DIY sub drawings (will verify actual dims this weekend):

It looks like (1) 24" x 27" NoRez sheet will cover (4) 12-1/4" x 6-3/4" & (4) 13-1/2" x 5-3/4" top/ bottom & sides between braces.

Do you recommend applying thin 1-2"/ 2-1/2" NoRez strips around amp back & F12G driver front?

If so this leaves me w a 7" x 24" NoRez partial sheet to cover (4) 1-1/2" x 5-3/4", (2) 1-1/2" x 5-3/4" & (2) 2-1/2" x 6-3/4" & (2) 3" x 3" squares (4 triangles at corners).

Is it possible to buy a partial NoRez sheet? If not does adding remaining NoRez to cabinet impact servo internal volume negatively?

Lastly, do your $12.95 (4) brass floor spikes & threaded inserts work OK w/ this 80# sub? (I'm used to seeing larger cones for subs).

- Thanks!

[Danny Richie]

I have been using quite a bit of No Rez lately and do have some smaller pieces I can throw in at good price.

Those spikes are pretty heavy duty and will handle the weight of that sub just fine.

E-mail me your order then call with CC info.

[brother love]

I removed F12G & measured cabinet internals:

14.25" inside length front-to-back

6.75" from mid-span brace to corner x 8 sides

Existing polyfill is 12" long- top/ bottom/ sides (none for front around speaker or back around amp.

Sent subject pic to Danny & talked to him re: best NoRez coverage in F12G cabinet...

Since there are 1" x 1" right angle block reinforcements at all corners, Danny felt 12" NoRez length centered on 14.25" front-to-back length at top/ bottom/ sides would provide sufficient dampening since corners are strongest joints anyway.

So net results for those wanting to go w/ NoRez: (1) 24" x 27" sheet will do the trick! 

Sections end up: (4) 12" x 6.75" & (4) 12" x 5.75" w/ 2" x 24" scrap leftover (which can be used to fill part of the gaps mentioned).

Note: 1" x 1" right angles are on short sides as well, so NoRez may need to be notched or slit cut.

Danny recommended using leftover polyfill to lay over amp at back.

So there you go, no excuses for those wanting to tame resonances in their Rythmik F12G cabinet. I ordered a sheet from Danny today along w/ (4) brass spikes w/ threaded inserts to replace my older aluminum cones.

[brother love]

I ordered 4 brass spikes & sheet No-Rez from Danny on Thursday & items by UPS Ground were at my front door Monday!  That's service for you!

I installed No-Rez & spikes to Rythmik F12G servo sub over the holidays. After 1st panel, it was apparent that notching No-Rez around 3-4 1" square triangular corner braces was going to be very difficult. So I went w/ whole pieces between corner braces, then filled-in gaps w/ No-Rez strips. Small pieces were applied to top of triangular corner braces.



I was quite impressed w/ improvements. Results per 80 Hz xover: even tighter, more defined detail, less coloration. SPL meter readings before/ after 2' directly in front of 12" speaker:

Sub stock cabinet (30 Hz- 80 Hz): 105, 105, 100, 100, 91, 99

Sub cabinet w/ No-Rez (30 Hz- 80 Hz): 106, 105, 102, 102, 95, 99

In keeping w/ Rat Shack readings, Denon avr-1909 Audyssey auto cal. adjusted from -0.5 dB to -2.0 dB

[nikhilji]

Thanks for the posting this, bro. Looks like a call to Danny is in the offing.

BTW, Is there a plan available for installing the inserts for the brass spikes ?

[brother love]

nikhilji,

Danny told me just to keep close to the corners.  For the spikes he sells, I used 7/16" drill bit x 1/2" dp. (MDF bottom is 3/4" thk.) & went 1.5" away from corners. End result, very stable. 

[tortoiseman2542]

Are these kits still available?  Anything available in the Open Baffle versions?  I would love to put together this in open baffle to go with my Ninja'd X-Statiks, Voce and Omni's.  I think it would be a great fit. 


Robert

[Danny Richie]

All of these parts are all still available. They are just not on sale any more.

I sold more of the open baffle version than I thought I would, and sold completely out of them in a short time. The next shipment arrives the 12th of this month.

[tortoiseman2542]

All of these parts are all still available. They are just not on sale any more.

I sold more of the open baffle version than I thought I would, and sold completely out of them in a short time. The next shipment arrives the 12th of this month.

My main concern would be the cabinet construction.  Are there any pre-fabbed cabinets that can be purchased, preferably in honey oak?  I honeslty wouldn't care if it was open baffle enclosure or closed enclosure.  I've just been told that the open baffle one would go better with my set up.  Thanks Danny!  I definitely can wait a few weeks if needed.      Oh and I'm assuming buying separate and assembling myself would be cheaper than buying a Rythmik one assembled?



Robert

[Danny Richie]

You can order the pre-fabed cabinets(sealed box) from Brian at Rythmik. He has the Honey oak too. Also, the SW-12-04 and SW-12-08 woofers are in stock.

Open baffle is great in that it does not load the room, but keep in mind that they need to be out into the room and not up against a rear wall.

[TomS]

You can order the pre-fabed cabinets(sealed box) from Brian at Rythmik. He has the Honey oak too. Also, the SW-12-04 and SW-12-08 woofers are in stock.

Open baffle is great in that it does not load the room, but keep in mind that they need to be out into the room and not up against a rear wall.

Danny,

What are the implications if the dual OB's are pulled out adequately maybe 4-6' from front, though still close to the side walls (2-3'), but toe'd in at as much as 45 degrees?

Tom

[Danny Richie]

Oh, you can get them right up on the side walls. They cancel at the 90 degrees off axis point. You just need them 3 or more feet out from the wall behind them.

Towing them in my give really mixed results. It depends on the room and your listening distance. Going as far as 45 degrees might put the null where you don't want it.

[cujobob]

Would you recommend placement of a single OB sub right in front of the listener or placed at the 9 o'clock position aimed at the listening area (this is what I'm currently doing)?

[TomS]

Oh, you can get them right up on the side walls. They cancel at the 90 degrees off axis point. You just need them 3 or more feet out from the wall behind them.

Towing them in my give really mixed results. It depends on the room and your listening distance. Going as far as 45 degrees might put the null where you don't want it.

Well, I'm thinking of using them as stands underneath the Geddes 24" high.  They are typically toe'd in between 30 and 45 degrees as shown below.  The GR Servo/Dymaxion sealed monopole is in the front left corners, OB servo's would be either under the Abbeys or maybe in between.  Sorry, probably should have made new thread, so split to an OB setup thread if you want.

[corndog71]

Well if you're just going to use them as speaker stands, why not just keep the OB subs facing forward as they should and leave your mains pointing at the required angle?

Pretty simple really.

[cujobob]

The way he's suggesting would look better, though.  However...I'd just go with having them at different angles.

[Danny Richie]

Would you recommend placement of a single OB sub right in front of the listener or placed at the 9 o'clock position aimed at the listening area (this is what I'm currently doing)?

Yep, you could do that. You could even use 3 of them (SW-12-16FR's) on a single amp and line them up there in the middle of the room.

Tom, it looks like the driver carrying all of your vocal region has an acoustic center about 18" off the ground. Doesn't that make a pretty short sound stage?