What equipment have you built recently?

gvimhoof · « **Reply #80 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 12:51 am »

Very nice, eparson. Very nice indeed. Woof!

Berndt · « **Reply #81 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 03:49 am »

The Truce TT was an evolution of Peters desire to build a cheapo tt,
and my compulsive mass sentiment.
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/452
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/652
brg and platter
http://cgi.ebay.com/Timaudio-DIY-Separate-Motor-for-Turntable-Belt_W0QQitemZ400106218398QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d2830639e
Not really partial to the inverted bearing design as it makes the oil
resevoir nearly impossible, and due to the fact that this particular
brg has tightish clearances running grease as is usually required in
an inverted design was not desireable, (IMHO).
Not visable in the picture is a center hub that incorporates a
resessed well that acts as an oil resevoir.
There is a layer of reinforced rubber between the hub and the 1.5"
base plinth. The cutting block is sandwiched between the bearing hub
and the plinth, nodding my hat towards constrained layer damping. The
arm mount which was intended to have the set screws mounted in the
back for cosmetic reasons mounts the rb300 style threaded stub on a
length of material that is fitted closely to the hub to allow arm
removal and addition height offset for the uk audio mods arm.
Watching Peter work on TT's has allowed me to tailor this particular
design to make it easier for him to service and adjust the arm without
having to acces the bottom of the deck.
Peter originally wanted to mount an armboard on the butcher block as
well as add spikes to the base. I felt compelled to over do it.
Number wise I believe this one is the fifth construction.
I also like the idea of adding mass to the end of the moment arm, that
being the arm mount at the end of the plinth. Adding mass to that
point reduces the resonant frequency. In my own experience this quiets
the feedback loop/hum that occurs at louder volume levels. This is
also the first forray into a non-empire motor driven deck, breaking
the reliance on parts that are rapidly gaining in price. I am very
grateful to Peter for the experience I have had building tt's. It has
been quite rewarding and I wouldn't have been able to perservere
without his confidence, approval, and generosity.
Best rgards,Bill

Berndt · « **Reply #82 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 03:52 am »

Also, Peter used a tt weights copper record matt as well as the UK audiomods rb-250 w/ vta adjustability.
This one is #6, btw.
Working on #7...

mgalusha · « **Reply #83 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 12:54 pm »

Sweet! I'm sure it sounds as great as it looks.

ebag4 · « **Reply #84 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 02:01 pm »

I have just finished a pair of GR Research V-1s, here is a link to the build thread for those that are interested:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=79985.0

For the rest, here are a few pics!

Best,
Ed

macrojack · « **Reply #85 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 02:16 pm »

Ed - I'm sure your speakers sound great but really, who cares. They are such beautiful craftsmanship and have such an alluring art deco mystique, they earn their place on looks alone. They kinda look like penguins.

ebag4 · « **Reply #86 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 02:46 pm »

Quote from: macrojack on 2 Jun 2010, 02:16 pm

Ed - I'm sure your speakers sound great but really, who cares. They are such beautiful craftsmanship and have such an alluring art deco mystique, they earn their place on looks alone. They kinda look like penguins.

Thanks MJ. You are correct in assuming they sound great, they really do, I will review them after I have had more time but for now I have this stupid grin across my face when I listen to them.

I wasnt really going for the penguin look but you are not the first to mention the similarity. The art decco look is something that I had in mind, at least subconsciously. If I had completed the top ornament for the grill there would be no mistake, it would look even more art decco-ish

. After four failed attempts to make the grill addition I decided to set it aside (part is too small and I value my fingers!).

Best,
Ed

jules · « **Reply #87 on:** 2 Jun 2010, 09:51 pm »

Magnificent Ed ... love the feet!!

Berndt;

That's a great looking tt for a very reasonable outlay. Not sure if it's intended but I imagine the copper would quickly remove static from records too.

A question about lubricant. You mention oil or grease for the centre hub reservoir. What specific type of oil would you use in this situation? There's some interesting possibilities in synthetic/teflon oil that could be well suited to a job like this.

jules

Berndt · « **Reply #88 on:** 3 Jun 2010, 12:19 am »

witht the tighter clearances of this bearing I am using mobil1 atf.
The hub that the bearing sits in has a resevoir detail so the oil can be contained, normaly not an option with an inverted design.

jules · « **Reply #89 on:** 3 Jun 2010, 09:35 am »

Thanks for the detail photo.

mobil automatic transmission fluid eh? Clearly you've put some thought into it.

I'm wondering if lubricants intended for watches and clocks might be useful in various parts of tts. Moebius make a series of lubricants ranging from light oil [used in watches for the fast moving balance whee] right through to a grease designed for heavier shafts and slow moving parts [eg the shaft for the barrel holding the spring for a watch or clock]. These are specifically designed to last for maybe 5 years between servicing [unlike older oils]. Moebius costs a packet for very small amounts but there's other options like Dupont, teflon synthetic.

Even if it would not be useful for the bearing we're talking about here, there's a heap of places on a tt that need lubrication and maybe something better than the stuff we use on sewing machines.

Hmm, maybe I should post this in the vinyl circle?

jules

jtwrace · « **Reply #90 on:** 3 Jun 2010, 11:46 am »

I've always thought a low friction coating like I use on many components would work great on s TT spindle. Hmm. Now if I only had a TT worth doing it on.

I knew I never should've sold it...

Berndt · « **Reply #91 on:** 3 Jun 2010, 01:28 pm »

The lubricant viscosity makes an audible effect. The clearances in the empires I started out on didn't sound very coherent with lighter weight lubricant, actualy ended up using teflon grease, from the bicycle days. Mobil 1 atf is what Thom Makris of Galibier TT's suggests using.
Perhaps a new thread is in order, so we can stop the hyjack. Also the thrust bearing material makes a difference as well.

shedman · « **Reply #92 on:** 12 Jun 2010, 10:24 am »

Pete Millett s Low Mu Pre Amp .Just finished worked with out any problems .Dead quiet no hum

mgalusha · « **Reply #93 on:** 12 Jun 2010, 10:14 pm »

Quote from: shedman on 12 Jun 2010, 10:24 am

Pete Millett s Low Mu Pre Amp .Just finished worked with out any problems .Dead quiet no hum

Very nice. I've always wondered how that would sound. Any other thoughts on the sound other than dead quiet, which is of course a great starting point.

I noticed you used two 6AS7G's, did you parallel the sections? If so, did you increase the standing current?

mike

simoon · « **Reply #94 on:** 21 Jun 2010, 10:13 pm »

Quote from: Berndt on 2 Jun 2010, 03:49 am

http://cgi.ebay.com/Timaudio-DIY-Separate-Motor-for-Turntable-Belt_W0QQitemZ400106218398QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d2830639e

What do you think of that Chinese motor?

I was thinking about ordering one myself for a TT mod project I have in the works.

Thanks

Dave

simoon · « **Reply #95 on:** 21 Jun 2010, 10:37 pm »

Not too much of a project, but I needed something to get my DIY chops up, since it's been so long since I've built anything.

I modded the PC-19 driver boards in a Hafler DH 500 using these simple kits;

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hafler-DH-500-PC-19-Power-Amplifier-Upgrade-Kit-/260618432185?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cae11aeb9

It's really just a cap replacement with higher end caps and a slight mod. Then I set the bias and DC offset.

Also upgraded the PS caps to Nippon Chemi-Con 22,000uF. Upgraded some wiring to shielded, upgraded the binding posts and RCAs.

A couple of evenings is all it took. Probably barely worth a mention for the experts here.

But the results were impressive. Wider sound stage, the highs were sweeter, the bass tighter. Even my non-audiophile (musician) girlfriend was able to hear the difference.

Berndt · « **Reply #96 on:** 22 Jun 2010, 12:34 am »

good buddy has an original teres project tt.
did an aluminum platter 3" thick...

going to build a new aluminum plinth and a zinc armboard for the sme.
Will post again when that is done.

Berndt · « **Reply #97 on:** 22 Jun 2010, 12:35 am »

Quote from: simoon on 21 Jun 2010, 10:13 pm

What do you think of that Chinese motor?

I was thinking about ordering one myself for a TT mod project I have in the works.

Thanks

Dave

first one smoked and was replaced. the case alone is worth their asking price, not fond of their oring belt or pully, needed to tweak the voltage to get enough speed adjustment

simoon · « **Reply #98 on:** 22 Jun 2010, 01:13 am »

Quote from: Berndt on 22 Jun 2010, 12:35 am

first one smoked and was replaced. the case alone is worth their asking price, not fond of their oring belt or pully, needed to tweak the voltage to get enough speed adjustment

Yeah, I've heard the belt is too elastic.

What's wrong with the pulley?

Feanor · « **Reply #99 on:** 4 Oct 2010, 05:48 pm »

Quote from: DougSmith on 27 Jan 2010, 02:01 pm

I recently finished building these 4th order bandpass subs, which I designed to complement my Geddes Abbeys.

...
- Doug

I just noticed this. Damn! That carpet under the subs is exactly the same as the one we've got; not so easy to tell but nevertheless ...