[mike_p]

Hi. This is an isolation/choice of TT question. My Rega RP1 (on a Solidsteel 3.5 rack) and REL T2 are talking to each other (the passive radiator in the sub 'motorboats' when the sub's volume is high enough for the REL to do its job). This only happens when I'm spinning vinyl.

The floor seems to be the culprit: its an engineered wood floating floor, resting on resilient cork underlayment. The cork is in turn laid w/o adhesive on 1 1/2" of gysum concrete. Beneath the gypcrete is 3/4" plywood nailed over TJI engineered wood floor joists.

When the music is playing (from any source), I can feel the vibration in the wood when I place my hands palms-down on the floor. Heavy footfalls from anywhere on this level of the house (2d floor) resonate dully throughout, and you can hear the low-frequency vibration from them on the first floor.

I am considering both short-term and long-term fixes for this problem. Short-term, how about one of those 4" air-dried maple sub platforms with brass footers from Mapleshade? Long-term, do I need a suspended design TT like a SOTA or a Linn?

Thoughts?

[TheChairGuy]

Hi mike_p,

Yes - it sounds like your non-suspended Rega could use some isolation from its rack....it's locked in and taking the brunt of what the sub is putting out.

I use a 3.5" slab of maple cutting block with brass toes pointing down into it from my (non-suspended VPI) deck. The effect of maple and brass toes is transforming to a vinyl system I found.  Look at another topic here in the past couple days about Dawns Maple Platforms before you sink your money into a Mapleshade product....mine is from Dawn and the cost was more than 50% less thru her than Mapleshade for substantially the same thing (a thick maple block)

In your case, under the maple block you may want to invest in some further pliant isolation: cork/rubber feet such as found in HVAC supply stores (normally go under major appliances to quiet them), or there are various (silicone) Herbie's Grungebuster products (they are a vendor here on Audio Circle - look for them) for more money, but they may provide even better isolation.  I use Herbie's and have always been pleased with their effects. 

Steve Herbelin is the owner and a chatty guy so I suggest speaking to him and getting advice for your specific situation (after you invest in the maple block and brass toes...cheapest that I know of are from Parts Express)

Cheers, John

[mike_p]

Thanks for the fast reply, John. I'll check out Dawns maple products, and check in with Steve also (I'm using his Way Excellent mat and like it).

Best,

Mike

[TheChairGuy]

Thanks for the fast reply, John. I'll check out Dawns maple products, and check in with Steve also (I'm using his Way Excellent mat and like it).

Best,

Mike

Yup - I use his mat, too.  I tinkered around with SO many of those over the years. 

Once I found his, I simply stopped.  There may be better out there - but, I found Herbie's mat was simply good enough for me to concentrate on other deficiencies in my system.

I have the end grain, 3.5" thick rectangle block that Dawn sells....I think with shipping it's like $110 to your door.  Some claim that the air-dried, solid maple blocks are better....I haven't tried them to know.  The end grain was so good there too, I stopped tinkering around with better supports under my turntable.

Cheers, John

[Jlappy]

mike_p,

ever thought about a wall mounted self like a Target ? 

I don't have your problem with my tt and subwoofer talking to each other, but i do have a flooring issue.  We have beautiful old wood floors in a 100 year old home and with my system set up you could not walk around in the room while spinning vinyl.  The wall mount shelf solved that issue well. 

cheers,  Jim

[mike_p]

Thanks, Jim. I'd forgotten all about that option. It might be impractical for me, tho', since I've got the MMG's about 5' off the front wall to capture that 10 ms delay . . .

[mike_p]

That is, my cables wouldn't be long enough (the speaker cables are 8'). I've currently got the equipment rack in-between the speakers, to take advantage of the dipole's null spots and minimize acoustic feedback from the back of the panels. If I move the rack back near the wall when using a wall mount (to connect the RP1's short integral tonearm wire to the amp), the speaker cables would be too short to have the speakers where they sound best.

[Delta Wave]

mike_p,

ever thought about a wall mounted self like a Target ? 

I don't have your problem with my tt and subwoofer talking to each other, but i do have a flooring issue.  We have beautiful old wood floors in a 100 year old home and with my system set up you could not walk around in the room while spinning vinyl.  The wall mount shelf solved that issue well. 

cheers,  Jim

Same here, I have a 2 shelf Linn unit. I have my TT on a 2" spiked butcher block on top of it, phonostage below. I can jump around and not even the slightest bit of effect. I did however use rubberized fender washers under the screw heads and thick rubber grommets between the shelf and wall. It does everything it's supposed to do.

[marz]

This conversation has been really helpful and has re  invigorated my interest in vinyl. As Mr. Chair has mentioned frustration dialing everything in is part of the territory.
I picked up a Merrill modded ar xa that had a modified motor and a  polymer subchasis. I added new springs, and a  new polymer pulley. Then chucked on a used rb300 arm which came with the Riggle VTA system and an Incognito counter weight. The only thing left to do is replace the platter with the Merrill system. I wonder how different some of the newer table designs  are from this resurrected classic? Is it worth putting in more money to this suspended  chassis design? 

[Jlappy]

This conversation has been really helpful and has re  invigorated my interest in vinyl. As Mr. Chair has mentioned frustration dialing everything in is part of the territory.
I picked up a Merrill modded ar xa that had a modified motor and a  polymer subchasis. I added new springs, and a  new polymer pulley. Then chucked on a used rb300 arm which came with the Riggle VTA system and an Incognito counter weight. The only thing left to do is replace the platter with the Merrill system. I wonder how different some of the newer table designs  are from this resurrected classic? Is it worth putting in more money to this suspended  chassis design?

marz,  great question  . . .  I would say maybe    As a 'hot rodded' AR ES-1 TT owner (w/ BaMorin's help) i think that is part of the vinyl trek i'm on . . . i think there is an esthetics as to how one approaches one's 'gear' as my used vinyl shop dealer calls it ... i know personally i have a few things i can/will do with my 'rig' in the future yet when its spinning and  and  well  . . . it makes me      cheers,  Jim

[Gzerro]

<Edit> Never Mind... Issue solved. No way to delete from the forum I guess.

[Joe_K]

<Edit> Never Mind... Issue solved. No way to delete from the forum I guess.

Out of curiosity what was the problem? I did read your original post, but I'm not familiar with your Denon.
That's a v nice table you picked up.
Welcome to vinyl.
Joe

[Gzerro]

Out of curiosity what was the problem? I did read your original post, but I'm not familiar with your Denon.
That's a v nice table you picked up.
Welcome to vinyl.
Joe

Thank you for asking. Sorry for deleting the post. I just felt kinda stupid (even for a newb).

The short version for those who didn't see:
I got a deal on a used VPI Scout table with Grado Reference Sonata1 cartridge. Just getting back into vinyl, so its been since the mid-80s since I had a turntable.

It sounded great at its former home but upon getting home not so much. The high end sounded mostly like white noise. I was wondering if it could be the phono input in my Denon 4311 receiver (temporary until I do some more research on a proper phono preamp or integrated with HT bypass).

The solution: I got a Shure Tracking Force Gauge, set it to 1.5g and now all is well. I thought it would survive the short transport with all settings intact, but apparantly the counterweight just slightly moved in transit, so tracking force was well below 1g. I downloaded the tonearm manual and it appears the other settings are at least very close.

Its sounds great now - very happy with it so far.

Gz

[Joe_K]

Thanks for the update. I was curious and hadn't thought of that.

Joe

[saisunil]

I am thinking of getting back to spinning vinyl.  Though I have given away most of the records - I still have some. I am thinking of getting a table in the office - away from the three year old.

I am looking for a good table that I can live with without a lot of tinkering - possibly as a trade  ... VPI's traveller turntable review on stereophole really piqued my interest ... something better that Rega while not requiring you to be a bonafide tweaked to spin some records.

It is funny that I am looking  for a music server and a TT at the same time
Appreciate your input.

[orthobiz]

Welcome back to vinyl! You may wish to peruse the following topics on turntables:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=111324.0
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=110393.0
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=109378.0

Similarly, there are topics about cartridges as well:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=110666.0
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=111455.0

And these are just on the last two pages on my browser!

I love checking out
vinylnirvana dot com
for TT's in the Linn/AR/Thorens range, all used.
And you can buy one that will require very, very little to set up on arrival.

Lots of options!
I love my highly modified VPI HW-19 that used to be John The Chair Guy's rig.
Don't forget to frequent the Source Components area of AudioCircle where members sell items.
I've always had good fortune with our members. Many transactions!

Paul

[saisunil]

Super thanks Paul ...

[curtisbaby]

So Ive got a bit of an isolation issue as well. Heavy footfalls on my suspended floor skip the stylus a bit on my VPI Scout. I've got it level on a 2 1/2" maple block that is in turn on isopods on a cheapie VTI rack. I have yet to fill the tubes of the rack, but am not convinced that will completely solve the problem of having a very live floor. What I was thinking of doing, since my listening room is over an unfinished portion of my basement is to try a couple of floor jacks on the joists that are just outside of the footprint of the rack so as to put the floor into a little bit of tension with the load bearing wall that is behind it. I'm not sure if this will actually fix the problem or make it worse, but since I have some 1 1/2" gas pipe from a welding project and  a couple of scaffolding screw-jacks, I thought I'd five it a try. At the moment, I don't want to go with a wall shelf but feel it's probably going to be my only option ultimately. Any input would be appreciated.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Here's my noob question (the short version):
It is in regard to the wire colors on an Ortofon cart. They're different that the colors of the wires in my headshell.

I put:
White - White
Green - Green
Red - Red (although it's more of an orange color on the cart???)
Black - Blue

I get zero output (to the speakers) from the needle. I can touch my finger to it, and get nothing. But if I put my finger back on the bare terminals, that can be heard through the speakers loudly like you'd expect.

So....I tried swapping a couple wires with the same result. Before I screw something up, what am I missing? 

[Jeff V.]

Here's my noob question (the short version):
It is in regard to the wire colors on an Ortofon cart. They're different that the colors of the wires in my headshell.

I put:
White - White
Green - Green
Red - Red (although it's more of an orange color on the cart???)
Black - Blue

I get zero output (to the speakers) from the needle. I can touch my finger to it, and get nothing. But if I put my finger back on the bare terminals, that can be heard through the speakers loudly like you'd expect.

So....I tried swapping a couple wires with the same result. Before I screw something up, what am I missing? 

Bob,

Red, Green = Right Channel
White, Blue = Left Channel

If I understand what you're saying there appears to be a problem with that cartridge.  Have you tried it on an other arm, & is it known to be a working cartridge?  Does a different cartridge work on that arm?  Again it may be a problem with the cartridge.  With a DVM you may be able to check the cartridge pins for continuity.  BTW, if this is a LOMC are you supplying enough gain to hear it???

Jeff