Maxcast, Fortunately I am really only dealing with 2 outside walls, the west and east. The west wall is more of an issue because it's only 3' from the property line and my neighbor's house is another 20' or so from there. The east wall (which is the other "side/long" wall) is facing into my backyard with over 80' and a 6' fence to go through before the next neighbor (although my wife's bedroom windows will be less than 30' away while I'm listening...). The north wall (listening chair end) had the 7' x 8' garage door across [its 13' spance] and inside that door I did build a new free standing 2"x4" based interior wall. It's almost 1" away from the interior of the garage door (which I already screwed and caulked 5"/8"'s Dw to the inside of). The new interior wall measures 7'x8' of course and will have its own R-13 and double 5/8 dw on its inward side. Only approximately 4' to the east of it and 1' to the west of that wall, is the original exterior wall which I will be sure to heavily double or even triple layer with Dw. The south wall (speaker end of room) is already completely re-done with a completely new full width interior free standing 2"x4" stud wall (both of these walls are 24" on center). Before I put it up I completely insulated the original wall with R-13, covered by 2 layers of 1/4" particle board wedged and caulked between the studs, topped off with 5/8" Dw and finished over with tar paper. Then, before I raised my new interior framing against it I attached another complete layer of 5/8" dw to the OUTSIDE of the NEW interior wall before securing it to the sidewalls, the 9' centerline ceiling, and those concrete- explosive- bullet -blasting- nails into the concrete floor. I'll be putting another layer of R-13 between these studs (to fill the void space) and then either 1 more interior layer of 5/8" Dw or, as originally planned, a double layer of it. I was not going to bother with green glue if I did 2 x layers of interior Dw, considering it's already free standing. These 2 walls are as close as I can get to "Floating" them except for the fact that the south wall does attach to the ceiling and sidewalls, and the north one connects at a few points to the new garage door (on top) for additional support. The original length of the garage was almost 19' so I figured I could spare the length by doing this, not the width on the sidewalls.... note that this gets back to the title of this thread: those precious width inches. That said, I really don't want to lose anymore of it (width) and think I'll probably stick to a heavy dose of green glue between the 2x5/8" sidewall dw's, along with the heavier gauge tar paper between the studs and the R-13 of course, and hope for the best.
I have already pre-wired ceiling lights (NO cans) and wired bases for 2x ceiling fans if I'm so inclined at some point (I can always remove the fan blades during the off season in case they're acoustically disruptive) and I'll be getting the type with the lights in them. All of these are already accounted for on their own dedicated line(s). Other lights and regular wall sockets=their own dedicated line(s) too... and I was hoping that would tolerate dimmers w/out invading the audio circuits. H/T projector and ancillary multi channel receiver and DVD player are pre planned, including their wiring and H/T dedicated line. I'll be pre-wiring the front L/R , center channel, and subwoofer H/T speakers by affixing those speaker connection jacks to the south wall for easy connection of them (Well AFTER the primary 2 channel system is fully tweaked in ideal location).I thought I'd build my own floor to ceiling corner bass traps out of some oc703 and design them with a pull out center section that I could hide a pair of stand mounted 2 ways or something in, for HT use.. perhaps some Paradigm Sudio 20's or something... this way they don't interfere w/ 2 channel but can be easily exposed when watching the big screen...Those multiple outlets I mentioned yesterday already account for the option of changing my 2 ch configuration to speakers-on-long wall, as per the Audio Physic philosophy, just for the sake of options down the line. BTW, I re-counted my outlets again today, 24-26 was a little overboard, I'll be making do with 14 hubbells and only 8 commercial grades, for a total of 22. Good news though, about 10 of these will be that free standing south wall so they won't really need individual outlet boxes like the sidewalls will... This is getting too long (again), thanks for everything. Advice always welcome. Regards, Grant
