Best wood for a Rack

mvwhiting_83 · « **on:** 19 Jan 2009, 08:39 pm »

I'm going to have a rack made... What would be the best wood for one? I'm looking for something with the least resonance... Would it be Oak? Maple? I will also be using some Isonodes as well for all of my components. If it were to be on casters would that contribute to any trace of resonance? Would stillpoints on some conecoasters be the significantly inproved alternative?

warnerwh · « **Reply #1 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 01:30 am »

I used finish grade plywood. Oak as a matter of fact. I'd be more concerned about room acoustics than rack resonance. Room treatment will make a much larger improvement if you haven't done it yet.

sac8d4 · « **Reply #2 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 01:33 am »

consider this chart of wood species on wood hardness http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test.

*I bring this up for the reason that most stands that are designed with wood, are usually soft species, black walnut, maple are some of the most common I have seen used. Then stands are also made of plywood shelves as already mentioned. I should have explained my point in bringing this chart up

JoshK · « **Reply #3 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 03:09 am »

Hardness changes the frequency at which the resonance occurs, it doesn't mean it changes the amount of resonance. I agree, worry about bigger fish to fry, like room treatments.

I think though, the logic that makes the most sense to me is that the wood isn't too hard to push the freq up into the audio band. It needs to be soft enough to keep the resonance lower.

orthobiz · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 03:13 am »

call it childish, puerile, infantile, stupid, naughty, whatever
but the subject of this thread made me laugh

Paul

Mariusz · « **Reply #5 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 03:33 am »

Quote from: orthobiz on 20 Jan 2009, 03:13 am

call it childish, puerile, infantile, stupid, naughty, whatever
but the subject of this thread made me laugh

Paul

Paul,
whatever stimulates the economy!!!!

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #6 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 03:44 am »

A nice...thick...maple butcher block rack...assembled by AC member toobluvr......

StereoNut · « **Reply #7 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 04:06 am »

If you can believe all of the Mapleshade disciples, air dried maple is the best for all things audio.

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/audioproducts/index.php

mvwhiting_83 · « **Reply #8 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 04:09 am »

Quote from: orthobiz on 20 Jan 2009, 03:13 am

call it childish, puerile, infantile, stupid, naughty, whatever
but the subject of this thread made me laugh

Paul

Funny guy!

KS · « **Reply #9 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 04:39 am »

Least resonance...medium density fiberboard, veneered as you like.

Maple has a resonance considered pleasing by Mapleshade. They couple the speakers or components to the maple block with brass footers. The alternative is to de-couple from the board using isolators like Isonodes or footers from Herbie's or others.

Double Ugly · « **Reply #10 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:20 am »

Quote from: mvwhiting_83 on 20 Jan 2009, 04:09 am

Quote from: orthobiz on 20 Jan 2009, 03:13 am
call it childish, puerile, infantile, stupid, naughty, whatever
but the subject of this thread made me laugh

Paul

Wow, thanks for your input and adding absolutely nothing to the subject.... I'm sure your 530 posts offer much of the same - Nothing. I think I will call your post... Umm, stupid (?), yeah stupid works best.

I'm relatively certain his intention was not to insult you. Perhaps you need to re-read your subject line with a more open mind (i.e., not involving audio) to see things from his point of view.

mvwhiting_83 · « **Reply #11 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:41 am »

yea I suppose alot can be lost in translation with webspeak.

mvwhiting_83 · « **Reply #12 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:43 am »

Oh my god

... I just got it. I guess it is pretty childish.

planet10 · « **Reply #13 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 06:20 am »

The best wood for a rack, and where it is in the rack, would be dependent on the design of the rack.

dave

toobluvr · « **Reply #14 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 03:51 pm »

Quote from: lonewolfny42 on 20 Jan 2009, 03:44 am

A nice...thick...maple butcher block rack...assembled by AC member toobluvr......

Awwwww shucks, Chris....thanks for the kudos!

But here's a much better pic:

And more pics of the completed and revised rack in my gallery here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465

BobM · « **Reply #15 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 04:58 pm »

Many might argue that wood is not good in a rack at all, and that you should use rigid, damped metal throughout. To that end, I have built this ...

Enjoy,
Bob

konut · « **Reply #16 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:13 pm »

I had a pair of SP Tech Timepiece Minis(see avatar) made from Ipe(Brazilian Walnut), #2 on the hardness scale that was linked to. When compared to a pair of Minis built from walnut, the manufacturer commented that there was a tighter response in the upper bass and was 3lbs heavier per cabinet. I can also testify that the wood is extremely resistant to denting,marring, and scratching. Ipe earns a class 1 fire rating due to its density, and is impervious to termites. It is extremely hard on cutting tools.

Browntrout · « **Reply #17 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:15 pm »

I agree with Planet in that the design completely determines what materials you would choose. The posts that suggest room treatment to be of more concern than the rack are in my opinion wrong. If your hifi is not very good then that might be the case but if it is then the rack is as important as the source itself.
   I would recommend coupling the rack and preamplifier, poweramplifier and speakers to solid ground with several different materials that are all fast in transmission, bypass components feet and couple directly to chassis prefferably taking into consideration where the transformers are.
   The source should be isolated from the rack and therefore the other components. This approach maintains the vivacity and attack of music while allowing all the detail to remain uncluttered and without any harshness or 'dark' colour being added to the mood.
   In all honesty, study the clever designs of specialist hifi racks and try to understand why they work and apply it to you design. Simple construction and large mass is not really an intelligent approach to vibration, the key is to remove internal vibrations from components whilst allowing the system to interact freely outside of components if that makes sense (in other words to create a place where the vibrations from inside the components and the vibrations returning from the speakers can 'mingle' outside of the components, a sink or pool if you like) The rack is one of the most important parts of a stereo because it affects every aspect of the sound of every part of the hifi.
I would actually recommend buying a proper rack after spending time listening in your home on trial because there is a lot of poorly designed stuff to be bought. If you buy or build the wrong rack you can ruin your sound and no amount of box swapping or room treatments will fix it. This is just my opinion from experience, I don't mean to insult or criticise anyone of you fine chaps.

nathanm · « **Reply #18 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:37 pm »

Quote from: orthobiz on 20 Jan 2009, 03:13 am

call it childish, puerile, infantile, stupid, naughty, whatever
but the subject of this thread made me laugh

Paul

Nah, I call it self-evident. I hate to have to be the one to do this, but it must be done:

A good rack will get you the wood you need. If they build it, you will come.

BobM sure has a nice rack. Shelfus Giganticus! If those were any thicker you would have a filing cabinet.

mvwhiting_83 · « **Reply #19 on:** 20 Jan 2009, 05:39 pm »

excellent post Browntrout.... Two might be in order. One for sources, one for components.