Anyone have good plans for a DIY audio rack?

toobluvr · « **Reply #40 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 02:31 pm »

I provided that address for PerfectPlank in an earlier post.

When doing the research for my rack, they were the cheapest online BB vendor I found. But I did not buy from them because coast-to-coast shipping costs were insane. In the quote they gave me, the shipping was more expensive than the product itself!!

If you can find a local company with the same product, that would be the cheapest way to go since no shipping is involved.

Notice in the photo how the "finger joint" is exposed. You usually see this on BB of lesser quality. Compared to a "butt joint", a finger joint is stronger because gluing surfaces are maximized. I think most butcher block uses finger joints. But really good (and expensive) block uses narrower rails and buries the finger joints for a cleaner look. That is, they look like butt joints.

I could be wrong, but in my experience:

narrow rails + buried finger joints (or butt joint) = better quality and expensive

wider rails + exposed finger joints = lesser quality and cheaper

PerfectPlank is the latter, hence the reasonable prices.

more info:

http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/the-language-of-butcher-block-61/

I think this is purely an aesthetic consideration, and for your purposes, I'm sure PerfectPlank will be just fine. Matter of fact, my 2 middle shelves have wide rails and exposed finger joint construction.....just like the PerfectPlank product. My top and bottom shelf are of noticeably better quality BB. It is thicker with narrower rails and what appears to be butt joint construction. But when all the gear is loaded on it, no-one notices the differences.

sts9fan · « **Reply #41 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 02:43 pm »

Toobluvr:

Do you know the part# for those 80/20 round posts? I was looking and could not find them. I am looking to build a set of speaker stands.

Thanks
Kris

toobluvr · « **Reply #42 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 02:51 pm »

Quote from: sts9fan on 24 Mar 2009, 02:43 pm

Toobluvr:

Do you know the part# for those 80/20 round posts? I was looking and could not find them. I am looking to build a set of speaker stands.

Thanks
Kris

Kris,

I used the square profile stuff, not rounded.

But you will find what you seek here:

http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-2.asp

Left margin, under "T-slot framing", click on the various profiles to see all the designs and styles that are offered.

~ John

mhconley · « **Reply #43 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 05:41 pm »

Luckily Perfect Plank is located only about 2-1/2 hours away. They came back with $40 for shipping and very reasonable prices. $40 vs. 5 hour round trip - I think I'll have them ship.

I don't mind the visible finger joints. I actually like the way they look. I am ordering everything today.

Martin

toobluvr · « **Reply #44 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 06:16 pm »

Very cool Martin!

Which wood are you getting, and what thickness?

Will they cut them to size, and router the edges?

Do they finish them, or do you apply the stain and sealant?

mhconley · « **Reply #45 on:** 24 Mar 2009, 06:36 pm »

They are cutting them to size. I am getting their standard maple butcher blocks with 1-7/8" thick under my preamp and CD-player and 2-7/8" thick under my amp and turntable. All are 18" x 18" except the top turntable shelf which is 24" x 24". They come unfinished; I plan on using a gel stain and polyurethane clear coat. I may round over the edges.

Martin

mhconley · « **Reply #46 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 03:55 am »

Phase one complete.

Martin

toobluvr · « **Reply #47 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 01:54 pm »

Shaping up nicely, Martin!
I can already tell that the outcome will be great!

What profile of 80-20 is that?

Do you plan to use any isolation or coupling between the 80-20 cross members and BB shelves?
What will you use?

How will you anchor the legs to the floor?

Inquiring minds.....

~John

mhconley · « **Reply #48 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 04:20 pm »

Quote from: toobluvr on 3 Apr 2009, 01:54 pm

Shaping up nicely, Martin!
I can already tell that the outcome will be great!

What profile of 80-20 is that?

Do you plan to use any isolation or coupling between the 80-20 cross members and BB shelves?
What will you use?

How will you anchor the legs to the floor?

Inquiring minds.....

~John

Thanks, John.

I am using the 1515 profile. I had it in my head that extruded aluminum would be light and I was somewhat worried about it's weight bearing capacity. 80/20's deflection calculator allayed my fears on strength but I was still under the impression it would be light weight. Boy was I wrong! The 1515 profile is significantly more substantial than I had anticipated. The frame alone is 42 lbs.

As far as shelf isolation/coupling and floor anchors go I have just one thing to say - spikes, spikes, and more spikes.

I will continue posting pictures and details as the build continues.

Martin

toobluvr · « **Reply #49 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 05:25 pm »

OK....

I went with the 40-4040 Lite.
I did not even investigate the "lite" vs the regular.

My brother is an engineer and he built an entire workshop and small assembly plant with the 4040 Lite. He said it was incredibly strong and would be fine for my needs. I sure hope so! My rack is 4 double wide shelves....about twice as big as yours. And I don't have the additional support of the cross members!

In terms of dimensions, your 1515 fractional is almost identical to my 40-4040 metric. Mine is slightly larger by 2mm on each side, and despite being "lite", it is only .04 lbs per foot lighter. The main diff appears to be that yours has more ridges on it.

Any particular reason your chose fractional over metric, and ridged over smooth? Maybe pricing effected your decision. I got my stuff gratis, so I did not even price it up.

The stuff really is beautifully made, and very easy to work with.
And it is quite gratifying to circumvent the rip-off hi-end companies (ie. Adona) and be able to easily make something just as nice and effective. I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #50 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 05:53 pm »

John....

I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?

Quote

I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!

Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby....

toobluvr · « **Reply #51 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 06:10 pm »

Quote from: lonewolfny42 on 3 Apr 2009, 05:53 pm

John....

I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?

Quote
I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!

Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby....

Correct Chris.
For my rack, 99.9% of the time was spent doing the cutting/stripping/sanding/refinishing.

If everything was new and ready to go, slapping it together is a piece of cake!

Regarding prices in audio land.....

Stuff like this galls me!

http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ANITVACSWE

Why in the hell should a few tiny pieces of fabric cost almost 20 bucks!!

It is just one of numerous examples. And not even the most egregious one, at that!

I think it's disgraceful and a ripoff.

It makes "outsiders" laugh at us, and roll their eyes and think we are a joke.
And I agree with them!

I need to replace mine....maybe I'll just cut up a pair of old corduroy pants.
Should I cryo them first?

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #52 on:** 3 Apr 2009, 06:19 pm »

Quote

I need to replace mine....maybe I'll just cut up a pair of old corduroy pants.
Should I cryo them first?

Sure..stick them in the freezer...there you go John...."american ingenuity"....

mhconley · « **Reply #53 on:** 4 Apr 2009, 06:13 am »

I chose the 1515 for no particular reason. I just thought the 1010 would be too small, the 1515-lite too light, and looked at but never considered the metric sizes - I just thought I was going to be buying butcher block in Imperial units so I might as well stick to them for the T-Slot, too. I had not noticed that the 4040 was smooth while the 1515 had ridges. I was considering the 1501 and 1502 profiles for a cleaner look. I guess the 4001 and 4002 would be cleaner still. Something I may have to consider...

I agree with you on how well made the material is and how really easy it is to work with and to design with. It is exactly as 80/20 advertises - The Industrial Erector Set.

Martin

Don_S · « **Reply #54 on:** 4 Apr 2009, 04:38 pm »

Lumber Liquidators has numerous stores in some areas. I think shipping is still free to the stores. No custom sizing or cutting.

1.5" x 25" x 8' $200 made by Williamsburg Butcher Block Co.

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?form_state=searchForm&form_state=searchForm&keyword=butcher+block&Go.x=11&Go.y=14

The maple BB I bought there several years ago was high quality.
25" x 8' slabs are real fun to muscle and cut.

I think it could have used a little more drying first. Finished up just like I wanted (satin with no build-up) with OSMO Hardwax Oil http://www.vtpf.com/finishes.html

rajacat · « **Reply #55 on:** 4 Apr 2009, 06:40 pm »

Quote from: lonewolfny42 on 3 Apr 2009, 05:53 pm

John....

I think most of your time was spent building the butcher block shelves...correct ?

Quote
I don't begrudge a company's reasonable profit, but some of the prices and profit margins are just insane!

Hey....come on....this is a HI-END hobby....

I just built this for less than $160.

Excuse me but I should have tidied up all the interconnects, etc.

Wood ~$70, fasteners ~$50, Minwax polycrilic finish $10 + brushes, sandpaper, etc.

It may be a little industrial looking but I think it matches the rather functional appearance of my components.
I thought about covering the threaded rods with cut-to-fit copper tubing but decided that if I ever wanted change the spacing that the whole operation would be too labor intensive.

I tediously cut (40) 5/8" mass loaded vinyl washers to isolate each shelf and protect the finish. Once I cranked down on the nuts sandwiching the shelves and loaded the shelves with the 50 lbs of monoblocks the whole assembly became stable without adding some sort of cross bracing. If I want to add more mass I can just stack pieces of granite or ? on the shelves.

The shelves are not air dried hard maple harvested by the Amish but I can always use bits of tonewood such as Myrtle for footers.
A friend of mine has a machine shop so I may have him fabricate some brass footers out of old brass shaft stock that would simply screw on to the threaded rods and the stand would then be easy to level.

-Roy

toobluvr · « **Reply #56 on:** 5 Apr 2009, 12:39 am »

Nicely done, Roy!

How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?

rajacat · « **Reply #57 on:** 5 Apr 2009, 03:36 am »

Quote from: toobluvr on 5 Apr 2009, 12:39 am

Nicely done, Roy!

How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?

Thanks!

Actually it's meranti which I found on sale for $4.00/brd. ft. I'm lucky to be near Edensaw Woods. http://www.edensaw.com/index.asp
Edensaw is an excellent source for exotic hardwoods, high end plywoods, veneers and flooring. Their large warehouse is a great place to browse. They have over 100 species of hardwoods from Angelique to Ziricote They also had maple available but I decided to with the Meranti. I wanted to keep the cost to less than $200 total.

-Roy

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #58 on:** 5 Apr 2009, 06:48 am »

Looks good Roy !

mhconley · « **Reply #59 on:** 5 Apr 2009, 03:56 pm »

Quote from: toobluvr on 5 Apr 2009, 12:39 am

Nicely done, Roy!

How did you get so much butcher block so cheaply?

I'll echo that - very nice. I was looking at threaded rod, too. How did you get it and the fasteners so cheaply? What diameter rod did you use?

Martin