Anyone have good plans for a DIY audio rack?

DaveC113 · « **Reply #140 on:** 29 Nov 2009, 01:46 am »

Josh, I may steal your design for my rack project I bought the lumber for months ago. Thanks!

JoshK · « **Reply #141 on:** 29 Nov 2009, 01:49 am »

Feel free. Steal away. It isn't my idea, I borrowed from many here and adapted to suit my own ideas.

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #142 on:** 29 Nov 2009, 02:33 am »

BTW, 3" thick maple cutting boards (really only have slots on each end to pick them up) can be had for about $66 each here:

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Maple-Edge-Grain-20x15-inch-Cutting-Board/3303890/product.html

I paid $1 for shipping two of them on 2 separate orders. I have 4 of these, 2 for amp stands and 2 for the bottom shelves. I ordered 4 blank maple shelves from a Northern Michigan supplier for $100 each plus tax last year.

toobluvr · « **Reply #143 on:** 29 Nov 2009, 02:44 pm »

Quote from: JoshK on 29 Nov 2009, 01:03 am

Quote from: toobluvr on 28 Nov 2009, 11:53 pm

Double wide?

You gonna put two single wide racks (like photo) alongside each other?

Or you just gonna use one pair of uprights as common to both sets of shelves?

The later. Common uprights in the middle. I figured it would be studier that way. ......

Cheaper too.....two less uprights needed.

I remember that 80-20 stuff being about 50 cents per inch, so you probably saved about 50 bux with shipping (36 inch height assumed).

macrojack · « **Reply #144 on:** 29 Nov 2009, 03:13 pm »

If it happens that DIY is not the goal itself but just a means to an end, I have an alternate suggestion.

In our area there is a used office furniture store. I bought a credenza from them that is very heavy and solid, probably more than 200 lbs. which measures 6 feet wide, 29 inches tall, and 20 inches deep. It is nicely finished furniture and, in addition to the top surface, has two lower shelves on each side. I just hole-sawed a couple of holes in the back on each side for cables and away I went. $200.00 total.

JoshK · « **Reply #145 on:** 2 Jan 2010, 01:55 am »

An updated pic. Still have to finish the shelves. I bought black crystalac for the shelves. Crystalac is used on guitars and is a very durable finish so it should be good for shelves.

polarbare · « **Reply #146 on:** 25 Feb 2010, 06:13 pm »

I am going to be using 8020 10 series to make a rack/stand for the TV/equipment (about 64" long, 20" tall and 19" deep). One thing I was considering was using granite tile for the shelving - the tile comes in max size of 24" x 24" (I have access to the tools to cut and polish the edges), and the tile is 1/2" thick. Shelves will be~ 21" wide x 19 " deep and supported on three sides by a bar of the 1" square 8020 tubing vs drilling and adding spikes to each tile. Any downsides to using this material for the shelving before I order it?

srb · « **Reply #147 on:** 25 Feb 2010, 06:19 pm »

I would be worried that 19" might be too much of a loaded span for only 1/2" thick granite.

With granite kitchen countertops, 3 cm (~1-1/8") granite spans no more than 24". But when they use 2 cm (~3/4") granite, it is always backed with 1/2" - 3/4" plywood.

Steve

polarbare · « **Reply #148 on:** 25 Feb 2010, 07:28 pm »

Ouch - I guess that's why I asked first. I think I'll pick up a tile and set it on supports and put a nice load on it (about 50 lbs) and see what happens before shelling out for the whole set. Any problems with viabration using granite that thin? The reason I ask was I saw a flexi rack made with granite shelves at oregon dv http://www.oregondv.com/Granitestainless.htm and was wondering about it's properties in a rack.

I guess another option is to add a base of mdf to each tile like the shelves Adona makes.

*Edited for another option...

srb · « **Reply #149 on:** 25 Feb 2010, 07:35 pm »

Wood tends to absorb and dissipate vibration and resonance, where hard materials like glass and granite tend to transmit them.

I think it is less of an issue if there is some kind of isolation method or device between the shelf and it's supports.

Steve

mjcmt · « **Reply #150 on:** 12 Mar 2010, 12:41 am »

Quote from: toobluvr on 4 Mar 2009, 10:02 pm

The extruded aluminum posts look very much like the 80/20 stuff I used.
Great material to work with. Very strong and always square, straight and true.

Very Cool!
Where can I source the extruded aluminum, T-bolts, and end caps to build a similar rack?

JoshK · « **Reply #151 on:** 12 Mar 2010, 12:56 am »

try 80/20 on ebay or www.8020inc.com

jriggy · « **Reply #152 on:** 27 May 2010, 06:11 pm »

Good thread, very helpfull...

So, I was thinking of Frankenstein-ing my current Salamander Synergy single, tall, rack and turning it into a rack like Toobluvr's... using the t-slot uprights that the Synergy system uses, cutting them down and getting butcher block for a double wide, low profile rack instead.

But I am trying to tell if these are the same t - slot bars as the 1010 on 80/20.com so I could use their fittings and whatnot. I am trying to do this at the moment without having to take the top shelf off to see the interior pattern of the upright...

Anyone have info on if these are the same product?

Thanks

Jason

decal · « **Reply #153 on:** 17 Jun 2010, 01:55 am »

After reading thru this thread I decided to make my own rack using the 8020 extrusions.It turned out very well. JoshK was right about the sturdiness of just the 4 uprights and the shelves with double hole brackets.I used the 15 series extrusions and the 20x15 butcher blocks from overstock.com that BigRedMachine recommended above.The rack is 36" tall with the bottom shelf spaced at 18" for tube cooling.I need to install some footers(being made from 1.5" brass at a local machine shop) and finish the shelves to match my Tyler Acoustics 7U speakers.So far I have less than $300.00 invested.You would be hard pressed to buy a premade rack of this quality for that price.DIY is fun and saves lots of dough!! Thanks for the all the info guys.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #154 on:** 17 Jun 2010, 04:22 am »

Well done decal ....

MrAcoustat · « **Reply #155 on:** 25 Jun 2011, 09:12 pm »

Hi here is what my friend Jocelyn built for me, it was made to measure for my needs, he builds the size you need usualy with wood shelves, mine was special i wanted granite, this rack is small but weighs over 300 pounds, 2x3 steel frame with wood covered legs the complete frame is filled with silice, you can see more of his work on my Flickr galery. http://www.flickr.com/photos/mracoustat/

hi5harry · « **Reply #156 on:** 25 Jun 2011, 10:43 pm »

Wow! These racks are great. I am just starting to build a new rack for the cave, so I love all the great looks. Thanks for the link Mr. Acouststat.

JoshK · « **Reply #157 on:** 25 Jun 2011, 10:59 pm »

Wow, nice few racks added to this thread! I do like my 80/20 rack. I think that is pretty easy for the average diy'er to do.

That other rack from granite and steel is pretty nice, but not easily tackle'able for the average diy'er.

MrAcoustat · « **Reply #158 on:** 26 Jun 2011, 05:40 am »

Why not Josh, it's a 2x3 steel frame that was painted and two slabs of 32mm granite, expensive yes but very easy to build.

PS: here are a few pictures of a model he built for Krell's KRS-100 mono blocks & three bigger one's in different colors.

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #159 on:** 15 Nov 2012, 09:02 pm »

After perusing this great thread for the past couple of days I've decided to make a new rack using some 8020 from ebay. Lo and behold I find that they are having a blow-out sale on some custom cut pieces that will work perfectly for what I plan. 1515 X 39.625" for a mere $8.92 per piece! That's a pretty great deal. Here's the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330776683290?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And this guy is selling corresponding anchor fasteners for pretty cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321023723581?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I was able to get my entire frame (8 spaces, 39.625" X 50" X 20") for $230 INCLUDING SHIPPING!!!

I originally planned on using butcher block like others in this thread but that would end up costing several hundred bucks. I think I'm going to go with the thick high quality birch plywood instead. Possibly veneer the laminate edging, possibly not. Maybe I'll get some countertop material from Ikea. Decisions, decisions. I'll post some pics once done.