Anyone have good plans for a DIY audio rack?

mhconley · « **Reply #100 on:** 6 May 2009, 05:44 pm »

Here is the first item I have created specifically to sell - I call it the Oops! amp stand. (there is a story behind the name) The photos show the frame only - the shelf is on it's way to me and still needs to be finished. I should have pictures with the shelf in two weeks.

It is made with 80/20 1515 profile extruded aluminum on 2-1/8" black chrome plated brass tip-toe spikes (floor protector discs will be included) . The legs are 6-5/8" tall including the spikes. The shelf will be 18" x 18" x 1-7/8" thick maple butcher block sitting on 5/8" spikes allowing the top surface of the shelf to sit higher than the tops of the legs. I am building three and will either stain one Brazilian rosewood and leave the other two natural maple or vice-versa; all will be protected with satin polyurethane.

Look for it in two to three weeks on Audiogon. It will be posted by seller DKM Design - my company name. Preliminary pricing is $329.99 each and $629.99 for a pair plus shipping. Each ships individually.

Any comments?

Martin

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #101 on:** 7 May 2009, 03:49 am »

mhconley ...

Quote

Look for it in two to three weeks on Audiogon. It will be posted by seller DKM Design - my company name.

Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines"..

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0

Good luck with your sale....nice work...

mhconley · « **Reply #102 on:** 7 May 2009, 04:04 am »

Quote from: lonewolfny42 on 7 May 2009, 03:49 am

Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines"..

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0

Good luck with your sale....nice work...

Thanks for the heads up...

Martin

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #103 on:** 7 May 2009, 04:13 am »

Quote from: mhconley on 7 May 2009, 04:04 am

Quote from: lonewolfny42 on 7 May 2009, 03:49 am

Read this link...."You will need to set your signature to meet our guidelines"..

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=42858.0

Good luck with your sale....nice work...

Thanks for the heads up...

Martin

Don't forget Martin....you can put a "free" ad here....

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?board=17.0

Good luck....

JoshK · « **Reply #104 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 02:19 pm »

So I have this plan to take an old mahogany dresser, gut it and turn it into a shell which an audio rack is going to fit into. I am fairly decided that I'll be using 80-20 posts to make it adjustable.

I was thinking of cutting up my current stand (seen in my gallery) for the platforms to build the stand out of. I figured I might need one or two more shelves. Then I got an idea. I thought this might be of general interest, so I'll share.

What about using soapstone for the shelves? Its supposedly machinable, just like wood. I think I am going to explore this option.

I still have an idea to make a plinth for my Teres out of soapstone and maybe even try to make a platter out of it.

toobluvr · « **Reply #105 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 05:04 pm »

Speed Rail is another option for framing out a DIY rack / shelving system.

see the details I provided in post #9 here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=70796.msg687750#msg687750

I still prefer 80-20 for the adjustable shelves and overall better looks.

srb · « **Reply #106 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 06:14 pm »

Mine wasn't fast or easy, but now that it's done, I'm glad I spent the extra time. I built mine from 6/4 oak and sacrificed adjustability for a more finished look.

The shelves are separated with 1-1/2" black texture-painted PVC tubing. The shelves are isolated through the use of large 1-1/2" one-hole rubber laboratory stoppers. The stopper size was selected so when they were pushed into the tubing as far as they would go, 1/8" was still exposed and trimmed with a 1/8" thick O-ring.

Threaded rod goes through the tubing and stoppers and is fastened on the underside of the bottom shelf with washers and nuts in countersunk holes, and threaded into outside/inside threaded inserts on the underside of the top shelf, so that no hardware is visible.

I used casters as feet, as I am somewhat routinely moving it for changing connections or dusting.

Steve

toobluvr · « **Reply #107 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 07:16 pm »

Nicely done!

Clean look and ingeneous use of lab stoppers!

I think I follow all construction techniques but for one.
I'm a bit confused on how the the top shelf is attached to the threaded rods.
I doesn't appear to be drilled through.

srb · « **Reply #108 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 07:31 pm »

Threaded inserts for wood were used. They have an outside thread which threads into the pilot hole drilled into the underside of the top shelf (not drilled all the way through).

Steve

toobluvr · « **Reply #109 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 07:36 pm »

Ahhh....I see.....I think.

so you screwed the threaded rod into the threaded hole I see in those?

or did you attach a coupler onto the outside threads of those.....and then the rod into the threaded coupler?

srb · « **Reply #110 on:** 30 Oct 2009, 07:49 pm »

The threaded inserts are screwed into the underside of the top wood shelf until they are flush. Then the threaded rod is screwed into the internal thread. As I had 8 rods to hold the shelves together, I used 3/8" rod as opposed to bigger and beefier rod, but the end result is very solid without any flex or movement.

I could not locate them in hard stainless, although I would think they make them. They have a slot meant to install them with a large slotted screw driver, or (preferably) with a special threaded T-handle tool. But if you are threading into hardwood and want the threads to completely cut into the wood, you will tear the soft brass apart with a screwdriver. I didn't have the tool, so I used a hex bolt with two nuts as my insertion tool. Then I was able to use a socket with a larger 8" T-handle drive for more torque and greater two-hand control.

Steve

JoshK · « **Reply #111 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 04:39 pm »

Quote from: JoshK on 30 Oct 2009, 02:19 pm

So I have this plan to take an old mahogany dresser, gut it and turn it into a shell which an audio rack is going to fit into. I am fairly decided that I'll be using 80-20 posts to make it adjustable.

I was thinking of cutting up my current stand (seen in my gallery) for the platforms to build the stand out of. I figured I might need one or two more shelves. Then I got an idea. I thought this might be of general interest, so I'll share.

What about using soapstone for the shelves? Its supposedly machinable, just like wood. I think I am going to explore this option.

I still have an idea to make a plinth for my Teres out of soapstone and maybe even try to make a platter out of it.

Well I have moved forward on this plan. I gutted the dresser, bought the 80-20 and cut to length. I priced out soapstone, but it is pretty expensive, likely around $500-600 for the uncut soapstone instead of $150-200 for the maple block from a place like perfect plank. So I think I am scrapping the idea of soapstone for shelves. Plus the Home Depot guy said it is really eaasy to crack. Don't know how much he knows but the idea made me pause.

http://www.soapstones.com/store/buy_soapstone_slabs.html

vs.

http://www.perfectplank.com/maple_butcher_block_tops.html

Another idea I was concerned about is it would be easier to fasten the wood shelves to the mounts then the soapstone and not crack the soapstone.

I'll try to take some pictures, but its already too late to see the before picture of the dresser.

I have the day off, so I am spending it woodworking in the basement.

P.S. my version of IE makes posting on this forum very challenging. Firefox works fine.

toobluvr · « **Reply #112 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 05:12 pm »

Josh...

I looked into that Perfect Plank stuff for my project. The product price is excellent.....cheapest I could find online. But the heavy weight makes shipping from west to east coast very expensive.

Two words: Craigs List.

Just keep searching on butcher block. That's how I built mine. I bought tables exactly like this, cut them down, sanded and refinished them:

http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/fuo/1455178904.html

Like me you live in Metro NYC area so they pop up fairly frequently, and usually at really good prices.

The three tables I bought on CL cost me an average of $50 per table, and they yielded my double wide, 4 shelf rack (top and bottom shelf came from over very large piece of BB).

I am very happy with the outcome, and it was really cheap.

JoshK · « **Reply #113 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 05:14 pm »

Thanks, that is a good idea.

BobM · « **Reply #114 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 05:27 pm »

When I built my plinth out of Corian I fouond a Kitchen countertop guy that had extra sink cutouts laying around. He bonded 2 together to make a 1" plinth and cut it to size for me. Not expensive at all.

Just something to think about.

Don_S · « **Reply #115 on:** 12 Nov 2009, 05:36 pm »

I am very pleased with the quality of the maple butcher block I purchased at Lumber Liquidators. My only complaint was it was not quite dry yet and needed to be used before it warped. They also have cherry butcher block. They have many stores in many states including in the NY/NJ area. I believe shipping is still free to the store. Lots of fun muscling around an 8' slab of BB.

There is a store locator function on the home page:

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/home.jsp?OVRAW=lumber%20liquidators&OVKEY=lumber%20liquidators&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=32950810522&OVKWID=69184198022

Link to butcher block:

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?index=0&maxResults=100&keyword=butcher block&resultsClass=specialty&allResults=false&sortByColumnName=DISPLAY_PRICE&sortOrder=1

OK, I give up. I can't get the second link to post properly. Guess you will have to copy/paste.

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #116 on:** 18 Nov 2009, 01:06 pm »

There was an email blast that came out in October searching for someone to make a rack for a SMAC member like one of these:

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html

I volunteered to take that on and built these for the audiophile requesting them. Just under $200 in materials: 5 threaded rods of 5/8-11, nuts, washers, stain, poly, brushes, and one sheet of Oak plywood cut just right allowed me to mitre all the edges and make them look 1.5" thick. So an economical set of racks. The lower unit gets a 22" tall Reel to reel on top.

It was a fun little project. Delivery is Saturday. With a smile.

Wayner · « **Reply #117 on:** 18 Nov 2009, 08:26 pm »

I have been working on this design for awhile, but haven't had time to finish it. Most of the design is driven from things I don't like about my present rack. Number one for me is accessibility, the other is to hide all the wires and third, be strong as hell. Looking cool would also be a nice plus.

Wayner

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #118 on:** 18 Nov 2009, 08:34 pm »

Hey Wayner, those columns could be cable channels. While only on the front edges, that concept could be used to hide the cables as well if it is incorporated along the back. First thing I thougt of was making the front columns out of 3/4 stock into a "U".

Wayner · « **Reply #119 on:** 18 Nov 2009, 08:46 pm »

I was thinking of some kind of Iboco style wire raceway in the back, one for power, the other for signal. Everything in the back. The large slots in the back for access to jacks and whatever, open sides for cleaning and a more isolated top shelf for my TT, but aint figured that out. The thing has to be shipped apart just for the sake of shipping cost (as if I'm gonna build them), but be easy to put together.

Wayner