High sensitivity, open baffle, single ended lovers dream speaker...

Rapt · « **Reply #180 on:** 2 Feb 2009, 11:00 pm »

Hey Danny.

Will you be showing the fully assembled speaker?

DougSmith · « **Reply #181 on:** 2 Feb 2009, 11:02 pm »

With the high sensitivity, I assume these could be driven nicely by a high quality receiver (no need for high-power amps or fancy equalization gear). I am curious, however, how they would actually be hooked up. Would the woofers just be connected to the sub output (with a splitter for additional subs, if present), or would it be better to split the preamp output (or maybe use the preamp outputs for the woofers and internal amps for the mids/highs at the same time - although I'm not actually sure whether my receiver would support that)?

On another note, do you think these could double for use with live sound? My wife likes to play live music in our living room (guitar & voice) and it is a bit much having her PA equipment set up there all of the time. I am looking for a high end multi-use solution for HT, stereo music, and live music (not at ear-splitting levels, mind you, but loud enough to be satisfying to a pro musician). I have ruled out the Linkwitz Orion at this point, because I don't think they could handle the dynamics and high peak SPL required. The Geddes Abbeys would work fine. I am wondering whether these could also handle those kind of dynamics without suffering any damage.

-Doug

corndog71 · « **Reply #182 on:** 3 Feb 2009, 10:17 pm »

Are those big side panels necessary?

Looking at the prototype it seems that they aren't.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #183 on:** 3 Feb 2009, 10:35 pm »

The side panels play several rolls.

1) They complete the front part of the box for the upper sub.
2) They complete the back part of the box for the lower sub.
3) The sides give structural support to the whole speaker, especially the top section. Without it, the whole speaker would fall apart.
4) It gives the speaker some shape and character.

Here is a mock up of the test box:

Grills will mount flush with the "bow-tie" and cover the upper and lower sections (cover the drivers).

CAK · « **Reply #184 on:** 3 Feb 2009, 10:49 pm »

A little constructive criticism.

I think the bowtie portion looks a bit contrived, almost afterthoughtish (is that a word?). In the proto picture above you can see the outside portions of the bowtie between the scalloped side panels. Would it be possible to bring the scallops down (or up) so the curved section of the side panel covers the edge of the bow tie? Or even bring the curved portion of the side panels out a bit to cover the edge of the bowtie?

Just a thought, think it looks good otherwise

Danny Richie · « **Reply #185 on:** 3 Feb 2009, 10:57 pm »

Quote

I think the bowtie portion looks a bit contrived, almost afterthoughtish (is that a word?).

It is just a mock up. Keep in mind that the grills top and bottom butt up to the bow-tie and make it flush across the front.

The edges of the bow-tie get veneered as well (already done). We may even use a solid piece (of whatever your wood) is and radius the edge of the bow-tie and the grills to have a curved edge all the way around.

Keep in mind also that it is a kit. You can build yours any way that you want. You can even omit the bow-tie and use one large grill to cover the whole front of it.

I was also thinking that it would look good to put a good sized radius on the sides of the bow-tie and roll the veneer across the front and around the sides. This keeps the grain of the veneer running the same direction as the sides and would look very good that way too.

CAK · « **Reply #186 on:** 4 Feb 2009, 04:59 am »

Awesome

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #187 on:** 4 Feb 2009, 05:58 am »

Geez, Danny . . bring it ON! Question- Would those high sides reflect spreading waveforms? Is that a part of the design?

ttan98 · « **Reply #188 on:** 4 Feb 2009, 08:23 am »

Danny

The box looks very nice.

The woofers from the H frame are somewhat displaced more than 4-8in behind the midrange and tweeter coaxial, how do you time align the drivers using passive componenents?

WerTicus · « **Reply #189 on:** 4 Feb 2009, 12:49 pm »

those woofers are driven by a phase controllable servo amplifier.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #190 on:** 4 Feb 2009, 04:45 pm »

Would those high sides reflect spreading waveforms? Is that a part of the design?

The dispersion of the highs are controlled by the woofers cone. I noticed that it didn't even make any difference if the woofer was counter sunk or not. There was little to no effect.

Quote

The woofers from the H frame are somewhat displaced more than 4-8in behind the midrange and tweeter coaxial, how do you time align the drivers using passive componenents?

Actually it is the opposite of what you'd think. Technically the inductor in line with the upper woofer causes a delay. I then have to add delay to the controls on the plat amp to pull the lower woofers back so they are not ahead of the upper woofer.

Keep in mind also that the 180Hz wavelength near the crossover point is about 6 feet long so a few inches either way is barely even a few degrees of phase rotation.

corndog71 · « **Reply #191 on:** 9 Feb 2009, 05:53 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 11 Dec 2008, 06:21 pm

Quote
Any thoughts about configurations for Home Theater. Ideal would be 3 identical front channels. Are there any other ideas that you have using the P-Audio Driver? I'm mainly thinking about rear and center channel solutions.

As a matter of fact, I have been thinking about that.

I can do a single and identical P-Audio driver in a ported box and make it almost any shape. It would be great as a center channel. It will hit a -3db down of 56Hz so it won't need help from additional drivers. It won't change as you move off axis either. It'd be great as a center.

I would imagine this would also make a nice monitor speaker. As much as I would like to build the whole shebang, building a couple of these might be a nice cheap alternative. At least I could live with them while saving up for the OB servo subs.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #192 on:** 9 Feb 2009, 07:02 pm »

I'd have to design a new network for a non-open backed version, but that shouldn't be to hard.

kyrill · « **Reply #193 on:** 9 Feb 2009, 07:09 pm »

Very wonderful design and what will it sound awesome.. regardless of price
but this first example has the most ugly veneer I have ever seen

I like much more mainstream old fashioned "classique" veneer

Neil66 · « **Reply #194 on:** 10 Feb 2009, 09:44 pm »

Quote from: kyrill on 9 Feb 2009, 07:09 pm

...but this first example has the most ugly veneer i have ever seen

Sorry, can't agree

- each to their own, but I think this veneer will be very nice once the unit is complete, very diff from the lame old norm & contemporary bland

HT cOz · « **Reply #195 on:** 10 Feb 2009, 10:28 pm »

Looks like Zebra wood. The DeBeers store in the Houston Galleria has it for their wood floors. It looks nice as a contempory style.

corndog71 · « **Reply #196 on:** 11 Feb 2009, 12:03 am »

I don't know. That veneer kinda looks like it was stolen from some old 70's kitchen table.

EARGASM · « **Reply #197 on:** 11 Feb 2009, 04:19 am »

Removed by member.

corndog71 · « **Reply #198 on:** 2 Mar 2009, 05:46 pm »

Does the distance between the upper half of the speaker and the sub matter? In other words, would it matter if I were to raise the top portion up in order to make a small chamber sandwiched in the middle for the servo amp and crossover?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #199 on:** 2 Mar 2009, 08:25 pm »

You can't put the servo amp and the crossover close to each other or the inductors will pick up the fields that are generated by the power transformer on the amp.