[JG2]

I think I can speak for Dan here.

Over the years, we have had to replace several tube sockets where a contact cleaner or enhancer was applied to the pins or sockets. Some folks have gotten a bit carried away & really gummed up the 9 pin and octal sockets in their CDP's and power supplies.

Thanks!
   

[rydenfan]

Things have been a little too quite around here the last few days so I will try and stir it up a little 

I have to do a little further listening but I believe I have a new king for the TP; the HW GZ37  rpf was kind enough to lend me this tube for testing and now he may not be getting it back  If I had to use one word to describe the tube it would be holographic. The ambient details that this tube retrives is amazing as well as its deep and textured bass. My 5AR4 or GZ32 may have a little more life in the upper mid area, but again I will have to listen more to decide. However, I can say my 5AR4 almost sounds a little dark in comparison. Keep in mind this is the Mullard fat base 5AR4 as the metal base is in my 36.5. I am not ready to make a true judgement yet but I thought you guys may be interested anyway 

[IronLion]

What does HW stand for? 

[rydenfan]

What does HW stand for? 

High Wycombe

This is the tube I am using

http://cgi.ebay.com/-Fat-Bottle-'High-Wycombe-CV378--GZ37-Rectifier-Rare.UK_W0QQitemZ220252644699QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL0807021832r8638

[IronLion]

Gotcha, thanks.  Have you compared it to the metal base 5ar4 yet in the TP? 

[zybar]

Things have been a little too quite around here the last few days so I will try and stir it up a little 

I have to do a little further listening but I believe I have a new king for the TP; the HW GZ37  rpf was kind enough to lend me this tube for testing and now he may not be getting it back  If I had to use one word to describe the tube it would be holographic. The ambient details that this tube retrives is amazing as well as its deep and textured bass. My 5AR4 or GZ32 may have a little more life in the upper mid area, but again I will have to listen more to decide. However, I can say my 5AR4 almost sounds a little dark in comparison. Keep in mind this is the Mullard fat base 5AR4 as the metal base is in my 36.5. I am not ready to make a true judgement yet but I thought you guys may be interested anyway 

Let us know your thoughts when you compare the HW GZ37 to the metal base GZ34.

In my TP, I think the metal base GZ34 is the clear winner.

George

[NickS]

Just curious, does anyone use headphones in their evaluations of various tube combos in the MW TP?

[rpf]

I have to do a little further listening but I believe I have a new king for the TP; the HW GZ37  rpf was kind enough to lend me this tube for testing and now he may not be getting it back  If I had to use one word to describe the tube it would be holographic. The ambient details that this tube retrives is amazing as well as its deep and textured bass. My 5AR4 or GZ32 may have a little more life in the upper mid area, but again I will have to listen more to decide. However, I can say my 5AR4 almost sounds a little dark in comparison. Keep in mind this is the Mullard fat base 5AR4 as the metal base is in my 36.5. I am not ready to make a true judgement yet but I thought you guys may be interested anyway 

   Glad you like it David. Your impressions mirror mine precisely (using the tube in my Modwright tube rectified Sony 9100).   

[rydenfan]

That's cool, Rob 

I should also note that I find the RCA Cleartop 6CG7's a much better match than the 6H30 DR's in my system. It could be because I already have a set of the DR's in my 36.5? but I find the 6CG7's to have a more clear and detailed top end; they do not have quite the bass impact of the DR's but they DR's almost seem a little veiled and sluggish at the top end. Of course my impressions my change tomorrow  and YMMV

[JG2]

Hi David,

It would be interesting to see what you think of the Philips metal base GZ34in your TP with the RCA clear tops. I'm sure it is performing very well in your 36.5! The fat base Mullard is a very good rectifier, but comparing the Philips metal base GZ34 to the HW GZ37 in the TP would be of interest to many on this forum.

[rpf]

Let us know your thoughts when you compare the HW GZ37 to the metal base GZ34.

In my TP, I think the metal base GZ34 is the clear winner.

George

George, have you heard the HW GZ37? Your thoughts, if so?

David, I too found the GZ34/5AR4 (an Amperex Bugle Boy, double D getter) to be dark sounding in comparison with the HW GZ37.

Like your finding that two sets of 6H30DRs didn't work for you, I also found two of the HW GZ37s (used in both the 9100 and the 36.5) to be too laid back. The best combination for me is the HW in the source with a black base GZ32 in the line-stage. It seems a mix of tube types works better than all of the same ones in multiple pieces of gear.

Rob

[rydenfan]

Hi David,

It would be interesting to see what you think of the Philips metal base GZ34in your TP with the RCA clear tops. I'm sure it is performing very well in your 36.5! The fat base Mullard is a very good rectifier, but comparing the Philips metal base GZ34 to the HW GZ37 in the TP would be of interest to many on this forum.

I will likely do this because as you point out this comparison will hold interest for others. My only issue is that my 36.5 is inside a rack so it involves me unplugging all the cables, pulling it out, etc. to change the tubes in it. I also want to do it to find out who exactly the metal base GZ34 compares to my Mullard fat base. too many great tube too little time 

[rydenfan]

David, I too found the GZ34/5AR4 (an Amperex Bugle Boy, double D getter) to be dark sounding in comparison with the HW GZ37.

Like your finding that two sets of 6H30DRs didn't work for you, I also found two of the HW GZ37s (used in both the 9100 and the 36.5) to be too laid back. The best combination for me is the HW in the source with a black base GZ32 in the line-stage. It seems a mix of tube types works better than all of the same ones in multiple pieces of gear.

Rob

Rob, let me just say again how much I appreciate your generosity in lending me your GZ37. That dark sound is certainly interesting. It is something I never noticed until placing the GZ37 in, but once you hear it there is no going back 

For me the two sets of the DR's I think was just too much of the same thing, if that makes sense? I think finding the right compliment of all various tubes to produce the most cohesive sound is paramount. Each tube family has a different set of strengths and weaknesses (so to speak) and I have found it is all about placing the different families together to gain the most complete sound.

[rpf]

Rob, let me just say again how much I appreciate your generosity in lending me your GZ37. That dark sound is certainly interesting. It is something I never noticed until placing the GZ37 in, but once you hear it there is no going back 

For me the two sets of the DR's I think was just too much of the same thing, if that makes sense? I think finding the right compliment of all various tubes to produce the most cohesive sound is paramount. Each tube family has a different set of strengths and weaknesses (so to speak) and I have found it is all about placing the different families together to gain the most complete sound.

You're welcome. It was my pleasure. This hobby is much more fun when shared.

Yes, it does make sense and I agree.

[ted_b]

I, for one, have compared my Mullard fat black base to my Philips/Valvo (welded) metal base in the TP.  I like the metal base quite a bit more.  It loses nothing of the fat base's nice midrange, but extends bass and treble.  It also is slightly more holographic, although the fat base is no slouch.  I'd love to try the HW sometime.   

Last night, after chatting with David earlier, I pulled my DR's from the TP and replaced them with my second fave, the Raytheon early 50's black plate 6CG7's.  I gave them a good 2 hrs to play in, and then had a Beck craving (we discussed Modern Guilt and I was listening to it on Rhapsody before ordering it).   I threw on Mutations, a real sweet and sour gem of lower midrange/upper bass guitar resonances geniuously mixed with some classic Beck upper frequency electronics, etc.   I love the album, and the Raytheon+DR signal tube combo (DR's are staying in the 36.5) was VERY nice.  I will need to listen more tonight, then slip the DR's back in for awhile before I agree with the "too much of a good thing" pronouncement, but the combo last night was sweeeet!  Rydenfan and I have very similar signal paths, but our speakers are quite different.  I can easily see that a speaker who has a midbass or lower midrange hump (typical of a "warm" speaker) could be bloated to death on double doses of DR's.

[jwes]

Hi everyone,

I have my Mod TP, and ready to set it up.  This is my first piece of Tube equipment, and all of these posts are a bit much at first.  Is there a generally agreed-to better set of tubes than what is provided, or are all of these posts primarily personal taste?  If there is something that would safely make an improvement over the stock tubes, what are they and what's the best way to acquire them?  I've also seen posts about tubes from decades ago, with congratulations by others that pictures show that they are o.k.  Is the process of getting alternate tubes risky?  Any insight into how to learn and go about this would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks much in advance!

jwes

[rydenfan]

Hi everyone,

I have my Mod TP, and ready to set it up.  This is my first piece of Tube equipment, and all of these posts are a bit much at first.  Is there a generally agreed-to better set of tubes than what is provided, or are all of these posts primarily personal taste?  If there is something that would safely make an improvement over the stock tubes, what are they and what's the best way to acquire them?  I've also seen posts about tubes from decades ago, with congratulations by others that pictures show that they are o.k.  Is the process of getting alternate tubes risky?  Any insight into how to learn and go about this would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks much in advance!

jwes

Welcome! I hope you very much enjoy you new piece, I am sure you will. If you read through this thread you will gather wonderful advice and knowledge on various tubes. Within the last few pages Both Ted and I each recommended a few tube combinations for a newbie tube starter pack. Spending a few hundred dollars with yield you some very nice results. If you could list the rest of your system that would also be a help as to what you may enjoy? *disclaimer* tube rolling can become extremely addictive in a hurry 

[ted_b]

Welcome to the Club!!!   

Tube rolling is not as complicated as it sounds.  It's a lot like using a recipe; there are basic ingredients (signal tubes, rectifier tube) but everyone has his/her own tastes as to what brand and combination of flavors make them happy.  If your system happens to start out sounding a certain way, say warm and fairly bass heavy, then you'll want to flavor the Transporter with tubes that tend to be complimentary, not additive. 

The good ingredients (tubes) were all made back in the 50's and early 60's, and typically in Holland, the UK and the USA (huge generalization, but you have to start somewhere).  Any of us who roll tubes in the Modwright products are looking for those tubes, not modern Russian and Chinese ones.  The 50's and 60's tubes come in two flavors, either NOS (new old stock, meaning they've not been used, just sitting on a shelf for 40+ years) or used.  NOS cost more, but used tubes are fine as long as they've been tested to have a good vacuum left in them (i.e tested good to very good).  As far as rectifier tubes (the larger ones used in power supplies) we love the GZ32, GZ34/5AR4, 5U4G, 5U4GB and GZ37 mainly.  you can find used versions of all these online and on Ebay.  Try them out, trade with some of us, etc.   As far as the smaller signal tubes, none of us really like the modern Russian Sovtek 6H30's that come with the player.  We replace them with various 6CG7's (RCA clear tops and Raytheon black plates to name two) and others (see posts).

There are no stupid questions...........just stupid people asking questions   (just kidding) .

Have fun.

[JG2]

{quote}'As far as the smaller signal tubes, none of us really like the modern Russian Sovtek 6H30's that come with the player.'

Your TP likely came with a pair of Sovtek 6N1P, not 6H30. These are actually a pretty good tube that are sent stock with the TP. Give these a try and feel free to explore from there! This forum is a wealth of information regarding various tubes and combinations. Some opinions have been almost universal and are, in most cases, 'no brainers'. Every one's ears, tastes and audio system's are different and YMMV.

Have fun!

[Philistine]

{quote}'As far as the smaller signal tubes, none of us really like the modern Russian Sovtek 6H30's that come with the player.'

Your TP likely came with a pair of Sovtek 6N1P, not 6H30. These are actually a pretty good tube that are sent stock with the TP. Give these a try and feel free to explore from there! This forum is a wealth of information regarding various tubes and combinations. Some opinions have been almost universal and are, in most cases, 'no brainers'. Every one's ears, tastes and audio system's are different and YMMV.

Have fun!

I consider this good advice - the 6N1P's are very good output tubes to start with in the TP.
Following on from Ted's response I would start by rolling the rectifier tube first of all - the GZ families are becoming expensive, consequently I would go for the 5U4G or 5U4GB.  5U4 prices are creeping up but they are still less expensive than GZ's and not a mile off in terms of sonic performance.