[CometCKO]

Everyone's ears are different of course, but I'll be presumptious anyway and say that I think the DR's are the holy grail of signal tubes for the MW TP.

As for the Mullard GZ34, until you've heard a metal base, don't give up on that model. I realize they aren't cheap, nor available on every street corner, but WELL worth the effort. The difference between the regular black base and the metal, are night and day. Completely different sonic presentation. The former: syrupy, rolled at both extremes, wonderful midrange, good but not great soundstage and depth. The latter: fast, detailed, extended at both extremes, soundstage is wide and as deep as the ocean, depth is as it should be. It is one of those perfect combinations that allows instruments to float in their own little space, with perfect layering, and yet oodles of weight to every one of those instruments within that stage.

As I mentioned to ted in a PM, I'm done with my tube rolling.

YMMV   

Hey Case, your description of the Mullard GZ34 sound is exactly consistent with my own experience.  Nice to see converging evidence.  I have pretty much settled on the 6H30-DR's myself as best signal tubes, but I'm still playing with a boat-load of 5U4 alternatives.  My faves are still the Tung-Sols, especially the 5U4-G, but also the 5U4GB.  The Sylvania 5931's are pretty good too, very different sound.  I have been less thrilled with other Sylvanias, RCA's, GE's or Ratheon 5U4 types I've tried.  I tried three types of GZ34's and all of them sounded like your description of the Mullards, to one degree or another.  I had pretty much given up on the type, but your post suggests that might be premature.  Thanks (I think).  I'm too cheap to go for the metal base GZ34's altho I'll certainly keep my eyes open. 

Oh, and thanks Dan for the caveat on the GZ32.    I used one for a month with no problems (a late Mullard), but I think I prefer the Tung-Sol 5U4-G, so I haven't yet gone back to it.  Jury is still out, I haven't tried the GZ32 with the 6H30-DR's. 

Fun stuff!

[JG2]

Mike,

The TS 5U4G with the top getter and 2 support rods between the plates is supposed to be 'THE' TS 5U4G!

Interested to hear your comparisons of the TS variants.

[rydenfan]

In regards to the GZ32 I can confirm I have blown 2 fuses with the Phillips Dario Miniwatt GZ32. And I tried it wil two different tubes to ensure it was not a bad tube. So it certainly depends on the GZ32 you use and it can result in a blown fuse.

[zybar]

I will have a NOS 5U4GB Tung-Sol from Jim McShane later this week.

I will be comparing them with my other rectifier options:

Mullard 1958 Black Base GZ34/5AR4 NOS-  $350
Philips 1966 GZ32- $160
Super Radiotron 1960's 5AS4- $110

I am sticking with the 6H30-DR's for the signal tubes.

george

[rydenfan]

I agree with everyone comments about the DR being an incredible tube. However, for the few of us out there that run both the Modwright TP and the 36.5 you really need to hear the DR in the 36.5. For me, as good as the tubes are in the TP they were significantly better in the 36.5. The 36.5 was designed to only use the 6H30 tube so that may have something to do with it? I am still curious was a double dose of the DR would sound like???

[ted_b]

I agree with everyone comments about the DR being an incredible tube. However, for the few of us out there that run both the Modwright TP and the 36.5 you really need to hear the DR in the 36.5. For me, as good as the tubes are in the TP they were significantly better in the 36.5. The 36.5 was designed to only use the 6H30 tube so that may have something to do with it? I am still curious was a double dose of the DR would sound like???

David,
I'll report back on that (double dose of DR's) when the front end comes back Wednesday.  We're going away for a few days so I won't report anything significant until next week.

The Tung Sol 5U4G (ST style) is my favorite rectifier in the TP so far, which mirrors a few other conclusions.  The Sylvania 5U4G and Tung Sol GB run second currently.....all these being married to the DR's.

I won a metal base GZ34 on Ebay this weekend and will have it shipped from Germany today.  I'll report back.

[rydenfan]

Sweet Ted! I did not realize you had multiple sets of DR's. I am very curious if it will be awesome or too much of a good thing?

It would be interesting if you had another of those metal base 5AR4's to see how they sound in the DM 

In other news, the Cable Company really needs to work on their communication skills. I was told all of the fuses I ordered where in stock and my CC was charged accordingly. When I received only one of the three fuses I ordered this past weekend I was perplexed. I called this morning and was told the two 3.15A slow blow fuses are backordered for two weeks  Furthermore I was told by the lady I spoke two that my sales guy had been made aware of this and he told her I was aware of it and told him to charge my CC the full amount anyway  This is all major news to me and I find it kinda shady to be honest. Anyway, it seems like I will not be able to report back on the hifi fuses for a few weeks.

[kenreau]

Guys,

Reading about the fuse upgrades, I thought I would mention a cost effective alternative.  I came across this company, Acme Audio Labs, that provides silver plated, cryo treated ceramic fuses.  At $12 each they are certainly worth consideration.  I bought a few but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.  They supply a variety of the cryo treated power related parts also.

http://www.acmeaudiolabs.com/products.htm

[Philistine]

I'll go against the tide on rectifier tubes on this one -
I have a TS 5U4GB, which is on the warm side, my TS 5U4G is on it's way out so my only real comparison is with an Emerson 5U4G - the 5U4G has more detail but has the downside of being too bright (maybe a good TS 5U4G would fix this?).
Replacing these with a NOS Amperex Bugle Boy 5AR4 hits the spot - it gives me the detail (and more) of my 5U4G, its smoother and the soundstage is very three dimensional.  So far my perfect tube. 
The GZ32 is very close to it.

I have a metal base 5AR4 on its way, this should be fun to compare.

   

[zybar]

Guys,

Reading about the fuse upgrades, I thought I would mention a cost effective alternative.  I came across this company, Acme Audio Labs, that provides silver plated, cryo treated ceramic fuses.  At $12 each they are certainly worth consideration.  I bought a few but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.  They supply a variety of the cryo treated power related parts also.

http://www.acmeaudiolabs.com/products.htm

Another fuse alternative is from one of our own - Lee from CryoParts.com (http://www.cryo-parts.com/fuses.html)



George

[Philistine]

Guys,

Reading about the fuse upgrades, I thought I would mention a cost effective alternative.  I came across this company, Acme Audio Labs, that provides silver plated, cryo treated ceramic fuses.  At $12 each they are certainly worth consideration.  I bought a few but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.  They supply a variety of the cryo treated power related parts also.

http://www.acmeaudiolabs.com/products.htm

Another fuse alternative is from one of our own - Lee from CryoParts.com (http://www.cryo-parts.com/fuses.html)



George

I don't see a 3A fuse, either a 2A or 4A - not sure how critical the value is, guess it depends on the tolerances DW has in the design.

[zybar]

Guys,

Reading about the fuse upgrades, I thought I would mention a cost effective alternative.  I came across this company, Acme Audio Labs, that provides silver plated, cryo treated ceramic fuses.  At $12 each they are certainly worth consideration.  I bought a few but haven't gotten around to installing them yet.  They supply a variety of the cryo treated power related parts also.

http://www.acmeaudiolabs.com/products.htm

Another fuse alternative is from one of our own - Lee from CryoParts.com (http://www.cryo-parts.com/fuses.html)



George

I don't see a 3A fuse, either a 2A or 4A - not sure how critical the value is, guess it depends on the tolerances DW has in the design.

It's there, you just need to scroll down to the smaller size that is needed:



Sorry for posting the "wrong" picture.

George

[Philistine]

Yes thats the right one - that works, and its better value.

[JG2]

Phil,

I look forward to your evaluation of the metal base GZ34. If you like the Amperex BB 5AR4/GZ34 and it is a true Philips Holland production tube with dual 'D' getters, I have a feeling you will REALLY like the metal base GZ34. It may not have the cool looks of the 5U4G or GZ32, but does it ever sound nice! 

[Philistine]

Phil,

I look forward to your evaluation of the metal base GZ34. If you like the Amperex BB 5AR4/GZ34 and it is a true Philips Holland production tube with dual 'D' getters, I have a feeling you will REALLY like the metal base GZ34. It may not have the cool looks of the 5U4G or GZ32, but does it ever sound nice! 

Metal base 5AR4 in house since Thursday  very good, I'll give it a few more days/weeks before commenting.
In the meantime I found this cryoed 6N1P if anyone is brave enough:

http://www.electron-tubes-audio.com/item330.htm

They also have croyed 6H30 Pi-EB's.

[zybar]

I just replaced a Kuhl tube Mullard 1958 Black Base GZ34/5AR4 NOS with a Tung-Sol 5U4GB NOS purchased from Jim McShane.

I need to get some hours before I report back, but I can say that the switch doesn't have me running to put the Mullard back in.

George

[CometCKO]

I just replaced a Kuhl tube Mullard 1958 Black Base GZ34/5AR4 NOS with a Tung-Sol 5U4GB NOS purchased from Jim McShane.

I need to get some hours before I report back, but I can say that the switch doesn't have me running to put the Mullard back in.

George

Hi George.  I think you'll like the TS 5U4GB a lot.  I go back & forth on the GB vs. the G bottle-shaped version.  I think it sounds a bit richer and deeper bass than the TS 5U4-G does.  And it killed all three of the different 5AR4/GZ34 Mullards that I tried (altho I'm too cheap to go for the metal base one that others are having good success with  ). 

The good news is the TS 5U4GB are conveniently available.  I've got about 6 of various production dates that I picked up for less than $10 each.  Of course, mine haven't been tested & verified by Jim McShane    And Jim also cleans all the tube pins before he ships -- great service! 

Keep us posted on your impressions

[ted_b]

Well, last night I swapped out my current fave Tung Sol 5U4G for my newest addition, a Valvo/Mullard early 50's vintage 5AR4/GZ34 metal base


and my tube board fuse blew.  Hmmm....luckily it was the stock fuse, not the $39 HiFi Tuning one I was about to install later this week.  I've got to go to Rat Shack and get more to try again and determine if this fairly $$ used Ebay tube is bad....guess I could go to a local tv repair-type shop and use their tube tester huh?  Dunno about any of these things, really.

Well, I put the Tung Sol back in and replaced the fuse with the only one I had, the HiFi Tuning one, temporarily.  While I was in there I noticed the main ac fuse, on the board nearest the IEC, is marked on the pc board as 500mA slo blo...but the recommendations here were 1A fast blo, so I removed the fuse and sure enough it is indeed a 500mA slo.  Are these interchangeable, one being rated 2x over the other and fast not slo?  Thx

[Big Red Machine]

I agree with everyone comments about the DR being an incredible tube. However, for the few of us out there that run both the Modwright TP and the 36.5 you really need to hear the DR in the 36.5. For me, as good as the tubes are in the TP they were significantly better in the 36.5. The 36.5 was designed to only use the 6H30 tube so that may have something to do with it? I am still curious was a double dose of the DR would sound like???

I won a metal base GZ34 on Ebay this weekend and will have it shipped from Germany today.  I'll report back.

I should have known it was you!

[rydenfan]

Pete, when are you getting rid of your Squeezebox and DAC and taking the plung into the Transporter???