My DIY rack is finally done!

toobluvr · « **on:** 31 May 2008, 04:31 pm »

This photo gallery has more pics and descriptions of the finished product:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465

Goto this photo gallery for details and pics on design, materials, and construction/ assembly techniques:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=862

I will be happy to answer any questions.
For benefit of other interested parties, probably best to ask them here rather than PM.

Thanks,
John

Captain Humble · « **Reply #1 on:** 31 May 2008, 04:37 pm »

Nice job John!

arthurs · « **Reply #2 on:** 31 May 2008, 04:42 pm »

Great Job!

SET Man · « **Reply #3 on:** 31 May 2008, 04:44 pm »

Hey!

Wow.... I made my own shelf too. But this looks much better than my crappy DIY shelf.

Take care,
Buddy

zybar · « **Reply #4 on:** 31 May 2008, 05:23 pm »

Great job John!!

In what ways does it better your previous rack?

George

toobluvr · « **Reply #5 on:** 31 May 2008, 05:42 pm »

Quote from: zybar on 31 May 2008, 05:23 pm

Great job John!!

In what ways does it better your previous rack?

George

Hi George,

I'm not noticing much of a difference with vinyl. If anything, maybe even a slight step back?
That massive granite surface plate on top of the machinist stand did a great job there, and my table always sounded its best perched on top of it. Gotta play around a bit more with isolation, cones, etc.

Digital reproduction has greater focus, clarity and ease. It has greater scale and sounds bigger and more impactful, and the overall presentation is a bit more organic and smoother. Translates into a listening experience with greater involvement and immersion.

Take care!
John

ltr317 · « **Reply #6 on:** 31 May 2008, 05:53 pm »

Nicely done. What type of wood did you used? I made a diy component stand with 80/20 also. I'm planning a fourth shelf for placing more stuff.

JoshK · « **Reply #7 on:** 31 May 2008, 06:01 pm »

I like it! I wanted to rack mount some of my gear, those channels is giving me an idea for a way of adjustable rack mounting.

toobluvr · « **Reply #8 on:** 31 May 2008, 06:15 pm »

Quote from: ltr317 on 31 May 2008, 05:53 pm

Nicely done. What type of wood did you used? I made a diy component stand with 80/20 also. I'm planning a fourth shelf for placing more stuff.

Hi.....

The lower shelves are maple butcher block, top shelf is oak butcher block. You may have noticed the slight color variation d/t how the stain took to the different woods. I used Ipswich Pine (MinWax #221) stain on both and tried to adjust for the naturally darker and more grainy oak by cutting it with Natural (MinWax #209) ...... 1.5 to 1, stain to Natural.

As you can see in the pics, they started out as table tops.
A cutting, sanding, staining and poly-ing orgy gives the result you see.

I wanted to do it on the cheap, so I scoured Craigslist for used butcher block tables.
I know maple is reported to be the best, but I used what I could find.
If I come across a maple one, and have the motivation, changing out the top shelf is easy enough.

toobluvr · « **Reply #9 on:** 31 May 2008, 06:19 pm »

Quote from: ltr317 on 31 May 2008, 05:53 pm

..... I made a diy component stand with 80/20 also. I'm planning a fourth shelf for placing more stuff.

Hey ltr317.....

What 8020 hardware did you use to attach the vertical and horizontal members?

Also, how did you attach the shelves to the T-slot framing?
Any attempt at coupling or isolation?

Thanks,
John

Don_S · « **Reply #10 on:** 31 May 2008, 06:24 pm »

Great rack.

I copied this from the first gallery link:

"But rack is not as rock solid as I had hoped. Nothing serious but there is a slight wobble when lateral pressure is applied. This is due to absence of the horizontal bracing normally seen on these 80-20 style racks......for example, Adona and Steve Blinn designs. But no complaints whatsoever about the sound. It is tremendous, especially digital."

Horizontal stability could be helped by a rear center vertical brace. That would be less obtrusive than a diagonal brace. Even better would be tightly notching the shelves to insert the brace as a "key". That might be something to consider if you decide to change the top.

Frisco · « **Reply #11 on:** 31 May 2008, 07:01 pm »

Hi John,

Very nice job.....

Thanks again for all your valuable info and now I can't wait to start on mine....

toobluvr · « **Reply #12 on:** 31 May 2008, 07:10 pm »

You are welcome, Frisco.

Be sure to post some photos!

ltr317 · « **Reply #13 on:** 31 May 2008, 07:41 pm »

Quote from: toobluvr on 31 May 2008, 06:15 pm

Quote from: ltr317 on 31 May 2008, 05:53 pm
Nicely done. What type of wood did you used? I made a diy component stand with 80/20 also. I'm planning a fourth shelf for placing more stuff.

Hi.....

The lower shelves are maple butcher block, top shelf is oak butcher block. You may have noticed the slight color variation d/t how the stain took to the different woods. I used Ipswich Pine (MinWax #221) stain on both and tried to adjust for the naturally darker and more grainy oak by cutting it with Natural (MinWax #209) ...... 1.5 to 1, stain to Natural.

Real wood, that's nice. The shelves must be pretty heavy. I only used Teak veneer over plywood because of my budget.

ltr317 · « **Reply #14 on:** 31 May 2008, 08:00 pm »

Hi John. I used the 80/20 T slot fasteners for connecting the extrusions with the shelves. See link: http://cgi.ebay.com/8020-T-Slot-Hardware-Anchor-Fastener-15-S-3360-4-Pack_W0QQitemZ220199007115QQihZ012QQcategoryZ42905QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

I had a friend who has a shop in his basement cut out the right size hole in the extrusions to fit the fasteners. I got the extrusions with two adjoining slots because I wanted the fronts and sides to be solid. I like the T slot fasteners because you can slide them up or down to the desire shelf height. The corners of the bottom shelves were cut to fit the shelf over the horizontal pieces. They are resting on the extrusions. The top shelf with my turntable was also connected with T slot fasteners, but I have the shelf sit flushed with the top of the extrusions. I used L shaped brackets below to hold the shelf in place. The entire unit is really heavy, so I haven't thought isolation or coupling yet. I may just isolate the turntable but the other components are pretty stable. I especially like the CD/DVD drawers. I measure the sections to hold 4 rows of CDs and 1 row of DVDs. The handles are aluminum and a soft tactile rubber.

If you want to see more photos of the unit: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1467

Wayner · « **Reply #15 on:** 31 May 2008, 08:27 pm »

toobluvr,

If you criss cross a couple of stainless steel wire cables with eyelets on each end in the back and attach it to the 8020 extrusion, the wobble will go away.

Nice job.

Wayner

Frisco · « **Reply #16 on:** 31 May 2008, 11:02 pm »

Quote from: Wayner on 31 May 2008, 08:27 pm

toobluvr,

If you criss cross a couple of stainless steel wire cables with eyelets on each end in the back and attach it to the 8020 extrusion, the wobble will go away.

Nice job.

Wayner

Just curious....instead of placing the wire cables...Do you think by adding another pair of extrusion post front and back down the middle would help on the wobble?

That is what I had in mind for my rack...... if and when I get my act together and get it started

toobluvr · « **Reply #17 on:** 2 Jun 2008, 04:35 pm »

Update

Rigidity has improved by removing the rubber grommets that the shelves were resting on, and really torquing down on the lag screws. Still a slight wobble with lateral pressure.

Build is very simple with minimal parts, and pretty solid. But apart from the leveling feet and tweeks used between gear and shelves, this design now incorporates no other means for coupling / isolating shelves, or other elements of the rack.

Music still sounds wonderful......wonder if it gets better by isolating or coupling?

Any further thoughts out there for improving rigidity, and incorporating isolation / coupling?

geowak · « **Reply #18 on:** 24 Jun 2008, 04:59 pm »

Dude
You have a nice rack. He He
no really it looks great

toobluvr · « **Reply #19 on:** 29 Sep 2008, 07:55 pm »

UPDATE

Well, it's finally done....I think!

I made the following changes:

* replaced the top shelf (1.75" thick Oak butcher block) with 2" thick Maple butcher block

* added the 4th shelf on the bottom
Note: For better visual symmetry and balance, it is the same exact butcher block and width
as the top shelf. It is attached to the posts the same as the middle shelves, and I notched it
for the posts.

* I increased spread between front and rear posts by 2.5 inches;
more attractive and balanced visually, with increased rigidity.

* made some isolation platforms from the scraps

I estimate total materials cost of $230:

used butcher block tables.................... $160
hardware ....................................... .. 30
refinishing supplies ............................ 40

Plus, tons of time and work: stripping, sanding, cutting, staining, etc.!

See the last 6 pics here for the final rack:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465

If interested, see materials and construction techniques here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=862