My Capacitor comparisons: Mundorfs, VCap, Sonicap Platinum, Auricap, etc

Jon L · « **Reply #560 on:** 15 Mar 2011, 06:23 pm »

Quote from: bigdirty on 14 Mar 2011, 07:43 pm

Hey guys,

looking for a little insight on implementing bypass caps. Using the pass labs B1 as an example, I have the 1uf and 10uf mounted off of the board due to their size. They are connected with wire to the board. Can the bypass cap be mounted on the board, while keeping the main caps off board, without problem?

thanks in advance

I actually have a DIY Pass B1 myself, and yes the positioning of large caps is a problem. It's fine to have the bypass cap mounted on the board, but do try your best to keep the leads from main caps as short as possible anyway..

bigdirty · « **Reply #561 on:** 15 Mar 2011, 06:53 pm »

Quote from: Jon L on 15 Mar 2011, 06:23 pm

I actually have a DIY Pass B1 myself, and yes the positioning of large caps is a problem. It's fine to have the bypass cap mounted on the board, but do try your best to keep the leads from main caps as short as possible anyway..

thanks Jon.

Im using ampohm PIO/alu for the 1uf and mundorf supreme for the 10uf, HUGE. Its still early, and with a modified tube preamp as reference, but Im missing some of that "midrange magic".

This will be my first venture into bypass caps. In the parts bin Ive got some k72p-6 0.01uf, k75-10 0.22uf, k40y-9 0.68

I was using the k75 as interstage coupling caps in my tube preamp. Im leaning towards trying those as bypass to begin with.

any recommendations?

wushuliu · « **Reply #562 on:** 15 Mar 2011, 07:04 pm »

Quote from: bigdirty on 15 Mar 2011, 06:53 pm

thanks Jon.

Im using ampohm PIO/alu for the 1uf and mundorf supreme for the 10uf, HUGE. Its still early, and with a modified tube preamp as reference, but Im missing some of that "midrange magic".

This will be my first venture into bypass caps. In the parts bin Ive got some k72p-6 0.01uf, k75-10 0.22uf, k40y-9 0.68

I was using the k75 as interstage coupling caps in my tube preamp. Im leaning towards trying those as bypass to begin with.

any recommendations?

Just my opinion, but I don't know if midrange magic is a strength of the B1 - I would say more soundstage, imaging. That said, Vit Q caps I used opened up the mids w/ the B1.

bigdirty · « **Reply #563 on:** 15 Mar 2011, 07:33 pm »

Quote from: wushuliu on 15 Mar 2011, 07:04 pm

Just my opinion, but I don't know if midrange magic is a strength of the B1 - I would say more soundstage, imaging. That said, Vit Q caps I used opened up the mids w/ the B1.

yes, the imaging and clarity of the b1, matched with a classDaudio sds-224, is spectacular. But, I find myself reaching for the volume looking for what I had become used to with my previous preamp.

It's still early, barely 50 hours on the B1. I will give it some time before I make any serious observations.

Jon L · « **Reply #564 on:** 15 Mar 2011, 08:38 pm »

Quote from: bigdirty on 15 Mar 2011, 06:53 pm

thanks Jon.

Im using ampohm PIO/alu for the 1uf and mundorf supreme for the 10uf, HUGE. Its still early, and with a modified tube preamp as reference, but Im missing some of that "midrange magic".

This will be my first venture into bypass caps. In the parts bin Ive got some k72p-6 0.01uf, k75-10 0.22uf, k40y-9 0.68

B-1 does not sound like a tube preamp, which is its point really, but if a bit of the midrange "magic" is required, I might bypass your Mundorf supreme with that 1uF AmpOhm and throw on the 0.22 K75 in the 1uF position. If bass rolls too early with your source with the 0.22, may throw on the 0.68 K40y in parallel to 0.22 for total of 0.9 uF. That's not really bypassing anymore, but both being oilers, the combined sound may not be too off. Just thinking a bit out of the box.

Or, just try various combos of bypass without moving the AmpOhm..

Jerrin · « **Reply #565 on:** 22 Mar 2011, 10:32 pm »

I have a pair of N3-S that have soniccap gen 1's and are bypassed by Platinum. I'm looking to add some "liquidity and magic" to them.

I was thinking of maybe using some Mundorf silver/gold/oil bypassed with the Platinums for the tweeter (planar) and maybe the same for the woofer.

Any suggestions? Duelands are too expensive and the upper mundorfs are as high as I can go.

Matty_J · « **Reply #566 on:** 29 Mar 2011, 11:10 pm »

Jon,

Most awesome and informative. I've long wondered what characteristics the different caps employ.

Matt

Tyson · « **Reply #567 on:** 30 Mar 2011, 04:54 am »

Jerrin,
Replace the Gen 1's with Obbligato Gold's and keep the bypass Platinums in place - magic!

oncle_tom · « **Reply #568 on:** 30 Mar 2011, 09:51 am »

For Bypassing Elektrica Caps are great, even in comparison to V-Cap Teflons. Look here:
www.askjanfirst.de/dindex.htm

Peter

bkeane1259 · « **Reply #569 on:** 1 Apr 2011, 02:14 am »

Jon, Great thread...thanks so much for your insight. I want to burn in crossover caps with a dummy load (never tried before) and I was wondering if it makes a difference if you wire the caps in parallel or series and then to the dummy load. All my caps are the same value....slightly different tolerances. Was thinking of doing 3 at a time with a 100watt - 8ohm resistor dummy load - 60 watt Sonance amp. Also, if you don't mind sharing. What sort of program material do you pipe into them during the burn-in process? Frequency sweeps, pink noise, music...all of the above?? And at what volume setting on the amp?

Jerrin · « **Reply #570 on:** 1 Apr 2011, 08:45 pm »

Tyson,

Thanks for your opinion. I appreciate it.

Jon,

Which of the following would you prefer overall as a base cap in a crossover: Obbligato Gold caps, Mundorf supremes, or Sonicap Gen 1s? If you don't mind, could you also explain why?

This can also be answered by anyone else with experience/preference. Thanks!

Jon L · « **Reply #571 on:** 1 Apr 2011, 09:27 pm »

Quote from: bkeane1259 on 1 Apr 2011, 02:14 am

Jon, Great thread...thanks so much for your insight. I want to burn in crossover caps with a dummy load (never tried before) and I was wondering if it makes a difference if you wire the caps in parallel or series and then to the dummy load. All my caps are the same value....slightly different tolerances. Was thinking of doing 3 at a time with a 100watt - 8ohm resistor dummy load - 60 watt Sonance amp. Also, if you don't mind sharing. What sort of program material do you pipe into them during the burn-in process? Frequency sweeps, pink noise, music...all of the above?? And at what volume setting on the amp?

I burned them in in series. When in parallel, remember the Total capacitance=C1+C2+C3, etc, so if your caps have high uF to begin with, one may end up with way too much capacitance, which may not be good for the amp.

I just played my music on repeat.

Jon L · « **Reply #572 on:** 1 Apr 2011, 09:28 pm »

Quote from: Jerrin on 1 Apr 2011, 08:45 pm

Tyson,

Thanks for your opinion. I appreciate it.

Jon,

Which of the following would you prefer overall as a base cap in a crossover: Obbligato Gold caps, Mundorf supremes, or Sonicap Gen 1s? If you don't mind, could you also explain why?

This can also be answered by anyone else with experience/preference. Thanks!

I actually like FT-series Russian Teflon caps in bypass. If your original caps are very large, you can bypass them with things like Obbligato, Sonicap, then bypass those again with Teflons.

bkeane1259 · « **Reply #573 on:** 13 Apr 2011, 11:37 pm »

Quote from: Jon L on 1 Apr 2011, 09:27 pm

I burned them in in series. When in parallel, remember the Total capacitance=C1+C2+C3, etc, so if your caps have high uF to begin with, one may end up with way too much capacitance, which may not be good for the amp.

I just played my music on repeat.

I've been cooking mine since Monday (in parallel since there are only 3) and I plan to get around 125 hours on them before actually using them. Just for yuks, I'm only cooking half, and then I'm going to do a side-by-side comparison to see if I can hear an obvious difference between the cooked and new caps. I'm using a bunch of music, frequency sweeps, white and pink noise and nature sounds all looped for the burn-in program. So far so good

wushuliu · « **Reply #574 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:11 am »

Quote from: bluemike on 13 Mar 2011, 10:16 pm

After using many high priced caps in my electronics I think the Clarity Cap MR are truly excellent
Thanks to Dave Garretson I got to try their lower voltage values and was very impressed

These caps imo do so many things right

Just swapped out the Mundorf SIO for Claritycap MRs on my SimpleSE. Veeeery Nice. The SIO is no slouch but the MRs are really clean and quiet. Has the Clarity 'house' sound, but perfected. See-through.

Johnny2Bad · « **Reply #575 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 08:49 am »

Quote from: tarquineous on 23 May 2010, 04:42 am

Buddy,

There is a way to electrically identify the inner foil lead from the outer foil lead, of an unmarked capacitor.

Richard Marsh, of Marsh Sound Design can tell you exactly how to do this.

He told me a couple of years ago how, but I never used the method. I listen both ways on a test rig, and mark the caps for best sound.

Basically, what you do for the test is wrap a foil around the body of the cap, and test from foil to each lead. That's all I know, so please contact him, if you want.

Not the "Marsh Method" but this page has a decent explanation of inner/outer foil best practices and two methods to test (one via listening, one requiring a 'scope). http://www.soundgaragetales.com/amp-building/outside-foil-capacitor
And more here:
http://www.aikenamps.com/OutsideFoil.htm

It's also often said that on a non-polarized capacitor, if you observe it with the writing in the "normal" position (ie you can read it left to right) then the outer foil will be on the right or "end" of the capacitor. However, there is no established "standard" so no hard-and-fast rule, so I would rely on it only if you had no other way to test or no reference to go by.

rollo · « **Reply #576 on:** 16 Apr 2011, 03:27 pm »

Initially installed two pairs of V-caps tin in oil in the Cyber 211 amp. A .1 at the coulping position of the input tube[ 6DJ8, Mullard]] and a .47 the coulpng cap of the driver [5687, Tungsol] to the 211 GE4TC tube.
Over time the soul was MIA. I had made some other changes in the system with Alan Maher CBFs, different cables and so on.
Just could not get a handle on what was causing the body and soul to disappear. A club member who was changing caps had a pair of .47 Jensen PIO with Alum. case. So for free in they went. Granted the body was back but lacking in detail, speed, tranient attack and focus in the bass. With only 20 hours on the Jensens so far the jury is still out.
Question. If I go back to the all V-cap scheme which cap would be recommended to bypass ? The input or output position ? Same applies for a cap[ change. Input or output for the most bang. A V-cap copper for example first or last. Or just leave the V-caps and bypass one but which one ?

charles

rollo · « **Reply #577 on:** 19 Apr 2011, 04:24 pm »

There is a new kid on the block. Deuland is offering PIO caps for real world prices. The "Alexander" is the model.

charles

WiesiekL · « **Reply #578 on:** 27 May 2011, 07:35 am »

Hi there,
Have just discovered the topic. Would like you to see the really big Russian 4.7 uF K72 teflon caps someone mentioned here. Use four of them them in my TL loudspeakers for the tweeters where the 4.7 uF capacity is needed. Enjoy the pics:

darkmoebius · « **Reply #579 on:** 1 Jun 2011, 12:01 am »

Quote from: WiesiekL on 27 May 2011, 07:35 am

Would like you to see the really big Russian 4.7 uF K72 teflon caps someone mentioned here.

Yowsa! Those are bigger than the oil filter in my car.