[markC]

Man, those caps don't seem to be very tightly wound. I thought that was a big part of the "magic".

[Jon L]

there's always this shrink tube  (http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-PTFEdualwall.htm). 

I remember late Bob Crump talking about how impossible it is to use teflon heatshrinks due to very high temps needed to make them actually shrink. 

Polyolefin heatshrinks are pretty good-sounding vs. PVC, so I would probably just wrap the cap with wide plumber teflon tape again and heatshrink with polyolefin.  I do have both

[dweekie]

there's always this shrink tube  (http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-PTFEdualwall.htm). 

I remember late Bob Crump talking about how impossible it is to use teflon heatshrinks due to very high temps needed to make them actually shrink. 

Polyolefin heatshrinks are pretty good-sounding vs. PVC, so I would probably just wrap the cap with wide plumber teflon tape again and heatshrink with polyolefin.  I do have both

[KT]

The upshot of all these different caps is that you can really get close to a sound that you love.

The downside is that you're always wondering if the caps you haven't had the resources, energy, or time to try will bring you closer to the sound that you love. Then you start doubting your system. If there's something that doesn't sound quite right to you in your system, then you're left trying this or that cap, or cable, or component, and on, and on....

The sword cuts both ways, dang it!

I guess I should consider myself lucky; I've honed my system enough over the years so it sounds good enough that I don't feel the need to mess around with it. Every time I get the inkling to do that, it subsides with the thought that the system sounds really enjoyable and natural to me and that tweaking it further would most likely invite disappointment and an unneeded waste of time, effort, and mental energy.

FWIW, the caps I have in my system's signal path are VTV Ultratones, Dynamicaps, and Blackgate Ns, one of each per channel going from preamp to amp. There's an additional Blackgate N at the output of my CD player's outboard DAC, as well. YMMV, of course.

Regarding the Jupiter Beeswax caps, I tried the ones originally sold by Ron Welborne in my Sun SV-300BE amp as well as in my Cary SLP-94 preamp. I thought they sounded really open and natural in my system (but in a different way than the rich, lush, sound of PIOs - maybe a bit more open, fast, and transparent, though dryer), but somewhat light. That lack of slam led me to move on to other caps. If the Jupiters had more density and weight in the lower midrange and bass, they would be killer, IMO!

I'm really curious about the AmpOhms, but will probably leave things as is. I'd love to hear more observations as you listen further, however.

Best,
KT

[face]

Has anyone out there tried both Duelund CAST and Claritycap MR's in a loudspeaker crossover?

I really like the tonality/timbre and smoothness of Duelund's copper VSF's.  But Claritycap MR's seem to do everything else better, such as dynamics, separation, imaging/soundstage, and are only slightly behind on tonality.  From what I hear, the CASTs are the end all, be all of caps, but I can't seem to get any feedback from someone who's tried both MR's and CAST's. 

Thanks,
Mike

[Quiet Earth]

. . . . . . . you're always wondering if the caps you haven't had the resources, energy, or time to try will bring you closer to the sound that you love. Then you start doubting your system. If there's something that doesn't sound quite right to you in your system, then you're left trying this or that cap, or cable, or component, and on, and on....

. . . . . Every time I get the inkling to do that, it subsides with the thought that the system sounds really enjoyable and natural to me and that tweaking it further would most likely invite disappointment . . .

Man, this is so true. Sometimes the best upgrade is to put it back the way it was before you put "better" parts in and ruined everything.

Of course, you'll never know until you try. 

[shawnds]

Hi All I wonder how the Amp ohm aluminum compairs with the aluminum Jensen.
I have Altec amps with aluminum Jensen's in and they are great in most ways
The driver section has old green cornell dubellier and coupled with the Jensen's there is airy magic.
I have spent lots of cash trying to beat that combo and I gain in one area of the sound and loose in another.
The positives of Jensen copper is for my system >>>great 3d soundstage and rich vocals little clearer sound
neg>> way less air and  vocal and piano don't have the realism.
Mundorf sfo positive wide sound detailed
Neg vocals are edgy bright no realism . not as open bloomy as the Jensen's of eather the aluminum or copper.
Hovalin music cap >> positive clear wide good bass
Neg >>> plastic sounding and real bright.
K40y seams to be in between the two Jensen's but still a little uninvolved in the vocals.
As for the green old caps I have try-ed both mundorf and Jensen copper and prefer the old paper and wax in that spot.
Any info on the AMPOHM's would be appreciated aa

[Jon L]

Hi All I wonder how the Amp ohm aluminum compairs with the aluminum Jensen.
I have Altec amps with aluminum Jensen's in and they are great in most ways
The driver section has old green cornell dubellier and coupled with the Jensen's there is airy magic.
I have spent lots of cash trying to beat that combo and I gain in one area of the sound and loose in another.
The positives of Jensen copper is for my system >>>great 3d soundstage and rich vocals little clearer sound
neg>> way less air and  vocal and piano don't have the realism.
Mundorf sfo positive wide sound detailed
Neg vocals are edgy bright no realism . not as open bloomy as the Jensen's of eather the aluminum or copper.
Hovalin music cap >> positive clear wide good bass
Neg >>> plastic sounding and real bright.
K40y seams to be in between the two Jensen's but still a little uninvolved in the vocals.
As for the green old caps I have try-ed both mundorf and Jensen copper and prefer the old paper and wax in that spot.
Any info on the AMPOHM's would be appreciated aa

It may be that the cap combo you currently have is what you should stick to.  This whole thing is still about overall system synergy and personal tastes. 

Having said that, I think you'll like the AmpOhm TIN foil PIO.  I really like how *music* happens in my room with this cap, and I simply have not been able to bring myself to take it out to try the next cap.  I will soon (hopefully) try the AmpOhm aluminum PIO, but no promises 

As far as Jensen aluminums, Aaarrhh, please don't make me buy yet another pair of caps.  If anyone has Jensen aluminums to loan me to compare to other PIO's, let me know...

[KT]

...I think you'll like the AmpOhm TIN foil PIO.  I really like how *music* happens in my room with this cap, and I simply have not been able to bring myself to take it out to try the next cap...

Do AmpOhm make a copper foil cap? The Tin foil PIOs sound like a great cap... based on your positive experience with the tin, do you think it would be worth holding out for the copper version? I'm not sure if one already exists or is even in the works if it doesn't already exist.

How do the AmpOhm compare with the Mundorf Silver in Oil? The Mundorfs seem like they may mate with my system well, but are a bit pricey. AmpOhm prices seem very reasonable.

I, too, am a fan of the Jensen copper PIOs. Funny I don't actually have any running in my system right now. A very musical and natural sounding cap if it synergizes with your system. The AN Kit One 300B with Jensen Copper PIOs on Klipsch Heresies did that hypnotic SET thing that was so captivating.

Best,
KT

[Jon L]

AmpOhm Tin Foil Paper In Oil Capacitor



If you have been following this thread, you may know that I have been enjoying the venerable Mundorf Silver In Oil more and more of late.  After everything has been said and done, when I actually had to choose ( ) one capacitor for my amp to do some actual music-enjoying, I somehow chose the Mundorf SIO. 

No, it doesn't "seem" to have 100 % of good Teflon caps' transparency and resolution, and it doesn't quite have 100 % of the weight and bloom of a good paper-in-oil; but it has enough of those qualities while avoiding to sound too literal (e.g. some teflons) or too rich (e.g. some PIO's). 

So it came to me as a pleasant surprise when the AmpOhm Tin PIO directly replaced Mundorf SIO and seemed to be sounding at least as good!  From experience, I knew oil caps need to settle in the specific circuit through regular use, so I let AmpOhm play/turn-off for many days. 

AmpOhm really seems to hit the right balance among PIO's.  In some circuits, the wonderful Jensen copper PIO can sometimes sound a bit too refined and buttery for my tastes, but AmpOhm avoids that while still remaining smooth.  Speaking of smooth, AmpOhm is smoother than the Russian K40y, which in comparison can seem to have slightly more prominent grain-structure. 

Mundorf SIO is not paper-in-oil, and as such, it has more top-end "air" and speed compared to most true PIO's.  AmpOhm does not necessarily make you notice that extra air and sparkle up top, but it's still very extended when one listens for acoutic instruments like bells and triangles.  What it has over Mundorf is higher density of tone and richness while not sounding syrupy or slow. 

I still remember the first time I played Bach Cello Suites via AmpOhm.  The cello sounded so magnificent I almost fell off my chair!  Every detail, texture came through with power and vigor.

At around $15 a piece, these things are a bargain in the audiophile capacitor world.  They are much larger than similar-value Mundorf SIO, so make sure you have enough space, but they are very well-built, look beautiful, and sound even better.  One caution.  If you are looking to PIO's as sort of a filter to hide system faults by rounding, glossing-over, or rolling-off, these AmpOhms are not the way to go because they are still incredibly detailed and revealing of the signal chain.

[jrebman]

Good to hear that.  I just ordered a pair of .1 uF tin foil PIOs for my bottlehead s.e.x. amp upgrade, and a pair of 2.2 uF ampohm poly films for the parafeed caps.  Looks like thetubestore has stock again.

I would have ordered the 2.2 uF PIOs, but they're huge 2" diameter x 4" long and right now I'm not sure if those will fit, but maybe later when I build a larger chassis for the amp.

-- Jim

[KT]

....At around $15 a piece, these things are a bargain in the audiophile capacitor world.

This is fantistic news, Jon. Thanks so much for the comarison with the Mundorf SIO. Looks like the AmpOhm is definitely one to try.

Best,
KT

[tolvix]

good morning to everybody   
me to read with a lot of attention your topic..   
me to ask one opinion of yours.. 
me to have preamplifier phono solid state, that to use 1uf capacitor of signal polypropylene metallized  Chinese  ..!! 
me to want to replace! 
me to listen to a lot of jazz vocals and tools type guitar cello.. 
me first to have thought about Mundorf silver/gold/oil, now, me to think to Ampohm tin foil 
you thing to recommend ? 
then to want to ask whether to perform the burn-in of the capacitors of signal before settling.. 
me to see page 1 photo, as to connect amplifier capacitor, not to serve a resistance? to which to use volume, plain or strong? 
thanks for help, regards  aa

[Joey B]

Hi Jon

Am presently trying some Audiocap Theta's , bypassed by ft-3 teflon in my DAC . How long would you estimate the breakin time to be ?

I have about 3 days continuous play on them , they are replacing  Mundorf silver in oils .

Thanks

Joey B.

[turkey]

there's always this shrink tube  (http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-PTFEdualwall.htm). 

I remember late Bob Crump talking about how impossible it is to use teflon heatshrinks due to very high temps needed to make them actually shrink. 

Polyolefin heatshrinks are pretty good-sounding vs. PVC, so I would probably just wrap the cap with wide plumber teflon tape again and heatshrink with polyolefin.  I do have both

And here I thought I had seen it all.

So you can hear the difference between types of shrinkwrap on capacitors?

[Jon L]

Hi Jon

Am presently trying some Audiocap Theta's , bypassed by ft-3 teflon in my DAC . How long would you estimate the breakin time to be ?

I have about 3 days continuous play on them , they are replacing  Mundorf silver in oils .

Thanks

Joey B.

Are you using the small Russian telons like 2200 pF I used to bypass Theta?  If you use the bigger teflons, the teflon character will dominate more, which may not be what you want in digital gear, esp if without tubes.

Which DAC do you have?

Remember that my platforms are low-watt tube amps.  In digital gear, I probably would tend to go with less of the brutally-revealing/neutral school of caps and more of the PIO variety...

[topround]

Great to hear!

I just received 8 tin in oils this afternoon for my amp!
Looking foward to breaking them in

Great work Jon
Mike

[BobM]

Are you going to put them in yourself this time Mike? (And if you answer, "No, I'm going to put them in my amp" then I know you've already opened that bottle of wine and begun sampoing it tonight).

Bob

[topround]

Bob,
I am tempted but I would like some help,
Maybe you?
you back from vacation?
Regarding wine, yes I have partaken, but so has half my block, which is at my house now for a BBQ,
I have some other tricks to do as well. ordered 3 pair of input boards for my amp.
Vinny is going to make a triode board, a VTL board, and a Vinny special
should be interesting

Mike

[Joey B]

I used a 2uf Audiocap Theta and a .1uf FT-3 . It is a Peter Daniel premium gold nos dac .It feeds a Bottlehead -- Extended Foreplay III . I'm running 13d5 tubes and Mundorf SIO coupling caps in the Foreplay .

The original caps that the dac came with are 4 uf Blackgate n's . I've used the Mundorf's since about the second or third month after I built the kit . It's always seemed like I've had a slight upper midrange bump that I couldn't get rid of .

My source is a computer server using cplay or j River , M-Audio revo 7.1 card ,to PDPG NOS DAC ,Extended Foreplay III, Audio Research HD 100.2 amp , MG IIIa speakers , Velodyne Sub .

Thanks
Joey B