[MarkR7]

Should probably start a new thread for resistors, and keep this a capacitor thread....

With that being said, I am using NOS Shinkoh tantalum resistors in the signal path for my Almarro upgrade.

How about resistors, guys? I would be interested in which resistors give the most open and transparent sound without adding any graininess? Is there a thread for a resistor comparo?
And then we should move on to switches. Which switch provides provides the widest soundstage?

[HAITIMAN]

Thanks.

And go 'Hawks.

[MarkR7]

Haha! Yes, go Hawks!!

[Jon L]

How about resistors, guys? I would be interested in which resistors give the most open and transparent sound without adding any graininess?

Resistors are often much harder to "roll" and compare, but if you are not looking for any extra flavors, warmth, etc, the Vishay "Naked" Z-Foil resistor is extremely transparent without grain.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_vishay_var.html

[bardamu]

Hello,
I am the proud owner of a virtue sensation amp which has a 100nf cap between pre- and power amp. Already did replace the stock cap with a polysterene one. Just a high grade cap bought in a surplus shop a decade ago. Now after one year i wanna try the russian K40-Y9. I did read somewhere that it could be an advantage to replace the wires because they are steel. Because there is a plastic cover on the cap i was thinking maybe just mount them pointing up into the air.
I know the inner foil is on the side where the K is on the inscription so that side should be on the power amp side if i am right. Would it be better to keep the connection short on the inner or the outer foil side? I think i have enough space on the circuit board to choose where i have the shortest wire.
Sincere greetings, Edward
p.s also have the 200 volts teflon but they might be to big. Have the 600 volts too BUT i am almost sure they are to big. Also dont know if the teflon would be better.
I wanna buy another sensation for my bigger set here it will be used with a 12 db filter at 600 hertz to be used just for the lower frequencies. Maybe the teflon could be better there. I guess just have to try.

[sfox7076]

I am having mono tube amps built.  Each mono block takes 5 0.22 caps.  So I am trying to decide on using the tried and true Mundorf MCap Supreme Silver Gold and the new Jupiter Copper Foils.  Any help on this?  What about heat?

Shawn

[rb7399]

Here is another site who did extensive testing on more capacitors from Humble Home made Hifi.


http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

[Folsom]

The Mundorf Mcap, MKP is a better budget champ than anything else in the thread thus far. It was reviewed here as a 10. I can confirm, for $5 a pop it makes things like the Wima's look shameful.

Website has incorrect picture, however.

[poseidonsvoice]

The Mundorf Mcap, MKP is a better budget champ than anything else in the thread thus far. It was reviewed here as a 10. I can confirm, for $5 a pop it makes things like the Wima's look shameful.

Website has incorrect picture, however.

I see the Mundorf Supreme getting a 10. Not budget. The standard MKP got a "7." Yes, budget.

Best,
Anand.

[Folsom]

Oh, maybe I got them mixed up. I can't find the Supreme anywhere, as MKP however.

Sounds is still better than th Wima that got an 8.

[borism]

I have a question regarding bypassing a 0.1 MicroF film coupling cap with a 2200 pF Russian teflon. Does the bypass cap have to be of the same voltage rating (i.e. 600) or can it be a lesser 200 V teflon (such as the TF-1 frequently seen on the bay)?
Red this forum and somehow must have missed this information.
Thanks!

[budngreg]

Thanks John for such an outstanding effort and the continued up dates.
Could you help here with a suggestion.

Question:  Mundorf silver gold oil, silver oil, Jupiter copper foil in wax (new last year).   

Of these caps which might you select to be the 12ax7 phase splitter caps feeding the driver tubes (also 12ax7) and onto the caps that feed six Sylvania or RCA 6L6GC grids (triode/no feedback)?  I have often heard that it is not the best idea to have back to back same kind/type ( for example all SGO types vs mix).

System is Soundlab Dynastat, Shanling CD, no lps, straight wire/no preamp to Tri Modified Mesa Baron amp, OFCCC ( single crystal copper) interconnects and cables.  I know you like detail and resolution and this has it in spades.  Currently it has all Audyn copper foil caps but they keep failing and need to go.  The sound could use some 'liquidy' which the Mundorfs should introduce.  Right now every recording flaw is under a microscope.

[DaveC113]

Thanks John for such an outstanding effort and the continued up dates.
Could you help here with a suggestion.

Question:  Mundorf silver gold oil, silver oil, Jupiter copper foil in wax (new last year).   

Of these caps which might you select to be the 12ax7 phase splitter caps feeding the driver tubes (also 12ax7) and onto the caps that feed six Sylvania or RCA 6L6GC grids (triode/no feedback)?  I have often heard that it is not the best idea to have back to back same kind/type ( for example all SGO types vs mix).

System is Soundlab Dynastat, Shanling CD, no lps, straight wire/no preamp to Tri Modified Mesa Baron amp, OFCCC ( single crystal copper) interconnects and cables.  I know you like detail and resolution and this has it in spades.  Currently it has all Audyn copper foil caps but they keep failing and need to go.  The sound could use some 'liquidy' which the Mundorfs should introduce.  Right now every recording flaw is under a microscope.

IMO, Jupiter >>> Mundorf, not even close really. I'd look to your tubes for achieving the balance you are looking for. Passive parts that sound smooth or liquid usually smear a lot of detail.

[rollo]

  I'm with Dave about the Mundorf. Ya want rich Jensen PIO, Sprauge PIO. I'm a big fan of Duelund CAST copper however price can be an issue. Next best and maybe really close are the Jupiter. Have fun trying and break them in BEFORE you install them. They take many hours for the dielectric to form.


charles

[mikeeastman]

I,m going to upgrade the caps in my X-overs and was thinking of the Jupiter caps and heard about the long break in time, is there a way to break them in before I install them?

[BobM]

Sure, build a burn in rig with some male and female RCA's and some wire. Just link the caps together in series on the + leg and use the rig as an interconnect from your CD player to your preamp. Then let it burn for a week. The amp doesn't have to be on.

If that is confusing just think of constructing an interconnect, but you are slipping the caps in the middle on the + leg in series.

[mikeeastman]

Thanks BobM.  Could I do the something with the coils for the X-over? Could I make up the whole X-over and burn it in the same way?

[Quiet Earth]

Don't do that Mike. The line out signal coming out of your CD player isn't nearly the same as the power coming out of your power amplifier. So you are wasting your time burning them in that way. Just build /upgrade your crossover and start using your speakers.

[budngreg]

Don't do that Mike. The line out signal coming out of your CD player isn't nearly the same as the power coming out of your power amplifier. So you are wasting your time burning them in that way. Just build /upgrade your crossover and start using your speakers.

100% agree...a cd player is like a tickle and your amp is like a slap.  You are trying to get the guts to settle in and a tickle won't do it.  Peak power can speed it up.  Use forceps on the leads to keep heat away from the insides, I find it cuts the time down on all components settling in anywhere including amps. 

[Folsom]

*